Help...shoudnt the tires spin ???

[silverstreek]

I read where you said you were trying to push over an old yaw bush and your tractor stalled is all. I can understand your frustration. Although some comments speak of ramming or pushing over trees and the danger associated with this kind of action. If anything, your original post has ended up as a great teaching moment for us all. It brought out comments that not only teach us, but may save our lives, limbs, or equipment through experience. And that isn't a bad thing!

Silverstreek

 

[buickanddeere]

Quote "pushed against it with the bucket while driving forward trying to push it over...it stopped the tractor " Unquote. Sounds like taking a running start at the stump to me.

 

[cvcman]

Yea these guys are off on their own tangent....

QUOTE=peter3759;4229128]Cvcman I agree! This topic has gone the wrong way! I thought this was going to be and informational thread. I'm new to this tractor world (360hrs on my ls) and feel I should have a little more power to the wheels, even in low. Let's not turn this into a lecture thread![/QUOTE]

 

[ozley]

The answer to that is No. These 2025's are pretty impressive little tractors but they aren't that powerful pushing. I went through this a week ago. Slowly brought my loader up against a 4 inch diameter tree stump and tried to push it over. I had it in low range and 4x4. Wouldn't move it. Tractor just sat there with no tire spin. However once I backed away from the stump 3 feet and then ran at it, it pushed it over like it wasn't even there. So you just got to get a little running start at it.

Sorry cvcman I was wording my post to the above quote.

 

[cvcman]

Does it really sound like that???? Well it wasn't and I suggest you re-read

Quote "pushed against it with the bucket while driving forward trying to push it over...it stopped the tractor " Unquote. Sounds like taking a running start at the stump to me.

 

[s219]

Do not push something with the FEL using wheel power unless you know it's really light/weak. That goes for trees or digging in hard clay/etc. You can really mess up the front loader as there will be no "relief" to kick in. However, you can definitely push stuff over with the hydraulics, because the system will go into relief before any damage is done.

An example -- when clearing a spot for my barn, I pushed over several 6-8" pine trees (live healthy trees with no widowmakers) using the front loader hydraulics. Bucket up high, curled forward, and then lower the bucket. Levers the tree right over like it was a stalk of celery. However, if you did the same thing but drove forward, you could easily bend the loader arms. Same procedure, but one way uses the hydraulics as the brains with a built in relief safety, while the other has zero margin of error.

 

[silverstreek]

I wouldn't worry about comments made by those who weren't there! Although, I guess we can agree as I suggested yesterday, your original post has morphed into a safety discussion for us all. Many comments bring me back to a time as a young man dating the Farmers daughter (in the 1970's), (And NO! I didn't marry her!) I was expected to work on the farm (hard work!). Because none of the men on the farm knew the first thing about repairing their own equipment, it all came down to me to make repairs, which included welding damaged equipment. I saw first hand how fast damage to equipment can shut part of the operation down at the worst time.

I also saw the owner flip a little International H tractor on it's side before the days of the ROPS. Lucky for him, he walked away with a slight limp was his only injury. Those guys would tear their stuff up doing some goofy things. Thinking back, it's a wonder no-one got seriously hurt or killed! When you wrote about stalling the rear wheels, I remember a time when they had a heavy wood splitter that attached and was run by the PTO on one of the older tractors. As they traveled up a slight incline the rear wheels spun suddenly grabbing, shutting the engine down. Figuring more speed would take care of the problem, they added more throttle, dumped the clutch and took off. This caused the tractor (*** end heavy because of the splitter) to rise up in the air about 3 feet before slamming down on the front wheels. This in turn snapped on of the front spindles off. Here we are in the beginning of fire wood season, and now we don't have the use of the high dollar splitter or the tractor.

Once the owner was informed the factory only produced special order parts like this spindle at certain times of the year. On top of that, the spindle wouldn't be available for another six months. We were screwed! Thinking, I said if it's already broke? What's the worst I can do? Fix it? So I took the broken spindle to my Vocational School welding shop where the teacher and myself got together and welded it back together. We were skeptical, but it was the only way out of a bad situation. That spindle lasted another three years until they did the same stupid thing again! But they had a new one sitting on a shelf they previously ordered years before. And the good thing about that........ I was GONE from there!

Silverstreek

 

[vwnotrunning]

I did not see anyone point it out, but it took me a while to realize on the hydro that to increase torque to the ground use less hydro pedal. I would initially / instinctively mash the hydro thinking it would go more. In reality more pedal is equivalent to a higher gear.

 

[peter3759]

When I bought my tractor the first thing my uncle told me is the slower you go the harder the tractor will work! I now agree!

 

[silverstreek]

vwnotrunning, Because I usually learn something new everyday, I wondered what today would bring? Today you have taught me a valuable lesson.

Thanks!
Silverstreek