Wow, I can see why you guys would like to go to permanent loader mount. That does not look friendly. It really became cleaned up with my version of the LA211 (Oct 2003). I remember the dealer saying I was lucky with my FEL. At the time I didn't really pay much attention or appreciate.
Help with BX2200 and Hydraulic Hose for FEL and Snow Blower Setup
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rbarker
Platinum Member
dennisgw said:
LOL, it's not quite as bad as it looks but it is certainly part of the reason I'm upgrading to a new BX 25. If you don't mount it for a while it can leave you scratching your head for a few minutes trying to remember what you did.
rs191
Member
Here are cheat sheets that I've used/improved(?) since buying my BX2200 with loader, snowblower and 60" mower back in 2000. I haven't tried to rewrite them for you, so if they don't make sense, I can try to answer questions.
The hose hookup diagram was done in Excel. Trying to copy the data into a Word doc caused too many changes, so I inserted a screenshot of the spreadsheet into a Word doc.
The writeup for the mower hookup would require a rewrite to be of any use to others. If you want that doc, I can update it and post it.
The snowblower hookup is a series of easy steps, except for the part that separates the right loader vertical and hydr. control level off the loader. Using rope to tie the hydr. cylinder to the horiz. bar above it and then using a 1/2" extension bar to knock out the two pins are the extra steps that worked for me. It's still awkward, but doable.
The hose hookup diagram was done in Excel. Trying to copy the data into a Word doc caused too many changes, so I inserted a screenshot of the spreadsheet into a Word doc.
The writeup for the mower hookup would require a rewrite to be of any use to others. If you want that doc, I can update it and post it.
The snowblower hookup is a series of easy steps, except for the part that separates the right loader vertical and hydr. control level off the loader. Using rope to tie the hydr. cylinder to the horiz. bar above it and then using a 1/2" extension bar to knock out the two pins are the extra steps that worked for me. It's still awkward, but doable.
rs191
Member
The three attachments as Adobe docs. This "Snowblower Hookup..." chart is a corrected version. The one I posted as a Word doc was a skewed version of the Excel original. The instructions for mounting and removing the snowblower are unchanged.
On the BX 22xx series, the loader arm with the valve must be removed from the loader and attached to the tractor to use the snowblower (lift cylinder). On the BX23xx series they moved the valve to be permanently attached to the tractor. When you move the arm, you disconnect 4 fittings. The snowblower hooks into 2 of them. I do not remember which ones on my BX22 as they are color coded. As my colored tape fell off, I put on colored tie wraps. The other way is put on the loader and get the hoses installed to where the loader works correctly. Now LABEL or mark the hoses on each end of the QD. Note the fittings for the bucket UP-Down (not curl). Those are the connections for the snowblower.
It does take an extra 15 minutes to remove the arm and valve from the loader and put it on the tractor, but once at the beginning of each winter season is not a big deal.
paul
It does take an extra 15 minutes to remove the arm and valve from the loader and put it on the tractor, but once at the beginning of each winter season is not a big deal.
paul
Not quite. I have a BX2200 with LA211 loader. The loader brackets stay with the tractor, no need to keep removing loader arm. The valve is permanently attached to the loader brackets. I thought all of the LA211 loaders worked this way but I am gathering some of the early versions of it did not. If you are lucky you have the version that I got. I got my system in 2003.
It took a while, but I'm finally getting around to modifying my Dad's tractor. The joy stick has been moved away from the FEL arm and 4 hydraulic hoses have been made, but need two more made up. Napa didn't have all the required fitting. I'll take pictures when it's all finished.
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The tractor end and snow blower have been modified to work with the repositioned joy stick/spool valve assembly. The FEL hydraulic hoses need to have quick connects added along with color coding the hoses. As with any project I'd probably do a number of things over, but it can be reverted back to original if needed. (Keep in mind tool access was very limited at my Dad's house)
What I'd change:
1. Cut the sides off the metal mounting plate for the joy stick/spool valve assembly. This would provide wrench and hand clearance.
2. Make the FEL and Snow Blower hydraulic hoses longer to account for the repositioned Joy stick/spool valve. This would reduce the number of joints and make the installation a bit less complicated.
3. Would angle the joy stick/spool valve assembly more vertical. This would give better hand position. (Currently at 45 degrees)
The bottom line is my Dad is happy with the conversion and it makes swapping implements a whole lot easier.
Thanks to all who contributed.
New position without the FEL support Arm in place:
With FEL support arm:
What I'd change:
1. Cut the sides off the metal mounting plate for the joy stick/spool valve assembly. This would provide wrench and hand clearance.
2. Make the FEL and Snow Blower hydraulic hoses longer to account for the repositioned Joy stick/spool valve. This would reduce the number of joints and make the installation a bit less complicated.
3. Would angle the joy stick/spool valve assembly more vertical. This would give better hand position. (Currently at 45 degrees)
The bottom line is my Dad is happy with the conversion and it makes swapping implements a whole lot easier.
Thanks to all who contributed.
New position without the FEL support Arm in place:
With FEL support arm:
Jeff F.
Yes, my Dad likes the joystick being closer to him. He had shoulder surgery a number of years ago and it now in a better position for him. If after some use he finds it unfavorable, I can always move the lever/stick by cutting, shaping and welding the approximately 1/2" diameter joystick.
Everyone,
I hope in the end those with a similar setup are inspired to modify their tractors for more convenient use.
Something I didn't mention above on what I'd change in the earlier post.
1. With regard to hydraulic hoses: I would have bought a length of hose say 30 feet and a number of ends prior to starting. This way the particular hose and fitting being stocked/used by your local hose maker can be mocked up as they all seem to bend differently. After all the hoses are trial-fitted they could be taken for final crimping. Trying to guess the actual hose length using existing hoses, fittings gets you in the game, but there are a number of hoses that I'd like to be either an 1" or 2" longer/shorter for better fitment.
Yes, my Dad likes the joystick being closer to him. He had shoulder surgery a number of years ago and it now in a better position for him. If after some use he finds it unfavorable, I can always move the lever/stick by cutting, shaping and welding the approximately 1/2" diameter joystick.
Everyone,
I hope in the end those with a similar setup are inspired to modify their tractors for more convenient use.
Something I didn't mention above on what I'd change in the earlier post.
1. With regard to hydraulic hoses: I would have bought a length of hose say 30 feet and a number of ends prior to starting. This way the particular hose and fitting being stocked/used by your local hose maker can be mocked up as they all seem to bend differently. After all the hoses are trial-fitted they could be taken for final crimping. Trying to guess the actual hose length using existing hoses, fittings gets you in the game, but there are a number of hoses that I'd like to be either an 1" or 2" longer/shorter for better fitment.
