Help with farmpro 2420

[thetester]

No she's stone age basic.

 

[Bob Rooks]

Coolant in the rocker cover.

1) This could very well be coolant condensed inside the valve cover due to temperature differences. The path being through the push rod passages.

Coolant level with the top of the block.

2) Isn't that from not draining the coolant prior to removing the head?

Coolant got into the oil galley and ran all the way to the pan.
No emulsification means it happened after the engine was shut down or very shortly before that.

3) Plausible but not likely, because there is no open path from the gallery to the sump. Coolant would have to displace an awful lot of oil through very restrictive passages (oil pump, crank and camshaft bearings, etc.).

If the block cracked the coolant would have drained to the level of the crack and it couldn't have gotten to the rockers without mixing with the oil.

4) See #3.

It is not likely the water pump has access to the oil galley unless it is internally driven by gears. It is most likely driven by the fan belt.

5) This is correct. No gear driven coolant pumps on these engines. There is a tattle-tale weep hole to the atmosphere in the coolant pump housing next to the seal to detect leaking seals.

Coolant on the rockers without emulsification likely also rules out head gasket and sleeve seals.
It is possible the head cracked as it was starting to cool down but there was still pressure in the coolant system which sprayed it into the rocker cover, or perhaps very shortly before the last shutdown and it didn't get down to the oil pump in time to be picked up.

6) Plausible, but must be verified with hydro or Magnaflux (MPI) tests.

I would look for a dye penetrate type leak detector and apply it while it was tight on the block. Then remove and inspect. Still nothing? Do the dye test on the block side of the head. Keeping in mind that the break may be internal and not visible.

7) In lieu of an MPI test, you can try this method using a liquid dye test (use both cans).

https://www.amazon.com/Aircraft-Magnaflux-Spotcheck-Developer-11-06oz/dp/B08MHYXH7B/ref=asc_df_B08MHYXH7B/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=475689981997&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11974526181292402471&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033469&hvtargid=pla-1162276711405&psc=1

If you still can't find it, look for a place that can do a magna-flux test. Although at that point it may cost more than a new head.

8) Typically, MPI tests run ~$200 for a block, ~$130 for a head. Prices will vary with the shop.

You said everything but the block was new, does that include the head? If so is it still under warranty?

9) Good question.

Good luck finding the cause and please keep this post updated for others in the future.

10) Yes, please.

Stuart

11) Respectfully submitted,
Bob.

 

[Bob Rooks]

Just another random thought, but is there an oil to water cooler on there, like at the oil filter ?

No oil coolers on these engines.

 

[Bob Rooks]

Another thought occurred to me. Are there core plugs in the head under the valve cover? Is that cylinder head new?

 

[thetester]

Yes I didn't think of that. There are freeze plugs under the rocker arms. However I think I'm on the trail.

I put it all back together with a new head gasket. I pressurized the coolant side to 20 psi. I've got drips coming from the rear sleeve. It's not really clear if it's from the outside of the sleeve etc.

It has to be torn back down and inspected for a cracked sleeve or a rolled pinched Oring. Possibly even a cracked block around that area.

I am praying for a Oring issue.

Just wondering!!!??? I've never had an issue in which I've had to rebuild a fresh rebuild before. Just thinking if I could reuse the same main bearings rod bearings and rings etc.

I've always heard once the rings take a set that's it. If you reuse they will fail even if they go back in the same cylinder etc.

Anyone got experience here on the topic???

I guess I'll get her torn down tomorrow. Days are wasting and spring is gonna get away from me.

I thank yall for trying to help!!

 

[Bob Rooks]

Just wondering!!!??? I've never had an issue in which I've had to rebuild a fresh rebuild before. Just thinking if I could reuse the same main bearings rod bearings and rings etc.

I've always heard once the rings take a set that's it. If you reuse they will fail even if they go back in the same cylinder etc.

Anyone got experience here on the topic???

Yep. You can reuse just about every component in a low-hour rebuild as long as there is no physical damage. You can reuse low-hour rings in new liners on the same pistons, but rings are inexpensive anyway. Main, rod and cam bearings are fine if they mic good - check for pitting, corrosion, and wire drawing.