LD1
Epic Contributor
So the new solenoid fixed the issues.
Thanks souNdguy,
The advice on testing the circuits you gave me worked! The solenoid is 12 volt because the tractor has been converted to 12 volt. What happened was the place (NAPA) that I bought the solenoid from sold me a base grounded solenoid even though I asked for a non grounded base. After checking it following your advice, I found that out. I bought it from NAPA and they did take the grounded based one back reluctantly, and sold me a non grounded base one. Charged me $45.00 for the new non grounded base solenoid. NAPA selling me the wrong solenoid caused me a lot of work and headache. Anyway you seem to know your "stuff" on these 1963 Ford 2000 tractors. Thanks again! Do you know of a local chain type auto parts store where I can buy points and condenser, and new spark wires?
Hou
wow.. this post is all over the place!
the ignition switch has ONLY 2 wires. one goes to the coil, one comes power, likely a terminal wire block.. but on your butchered hack job, who knows.
I'd dyke out all the wires and start over!
to test that solenoid, remove it so the base is not touching anything, hook one small term to power, and one small term to ground, if that makes it click, it's the correct solenoid.
that unit will have no ammeter, only a charge lamp. thus you can simply find battery hot, run to the key, then to the coil.
run a wire from the coil side of the key to one of the small terminals on the solenoid. other small solenoid terminal to thumb switch. key on powers the ignition and the solenoid, thumb button should activate starter.
if not, take a test lamp, put clamp on bat hot, and point on the thumb button screw terminal and press. if the lamp does not light up, switch is bad.
one thought.. you didn't buy a 12v solenoid for a 6v tractor did you? 2000 4 cyl gas tractors were oem 6v.