Help with top link adjustment for rotary cutter.

joerocker · May 17, 2006

Thanks guys!

I was worried that all that bouncing of that HEAVY cutter would eventually rupture the hydraulic seals or something.

I can get the height OK if I don't lower the 3PH all the way down. But IF I lower it all the way, it's a little too low and everything is VERY tight (all the links) to keep it up off the ground in the front. Unless I were to drill some holes down lower and move the mount pins like the other guy did.

You're SURE that not being completely lowered is OK and won't over-stress anything?

joerocker · May 17, 2006

Thanks guys!

I was worried that all that bouncing of that HEAVY cutter would eventually rupture the hydraulic seals or something.

I can get the height OK if I don't lower the 3PH all the way down. But IF I lower it all the way, it's a little too low and everything is VERY tight (all the links) to keep it up off the ground in the front. Unless I were to drill some holes down lower and move the mount pins like the other guy did.

You're SURE that not being completely lowered is OK and won't over-stress anything?

djradz · May 17, 2006

To virtually eliminate that "bouncing", folks install "check chains" which serve to support the front of the deck and result in the 3-pt arms just sort of riding along, keeping the deck back, but not supporting it vertically.

djradz · May 17, 2006

To virtually eliminate that "bouncing", folks install "check chains" which serve to support the front of the deck and result in the 3-pt arms just sort of riding along, keeping the deck back, but not supporting it vertically.

canoetrpr · May 17, 2006

Joe:

I never even had the same concern as you... Remember the 3PT hitch is not made of china

(nor is the rest of the machine

.

When I don't have a mower on, my 3PT is permanently supporting a 500+lb ballast box.

canoetrpr · May 17, 2006

Joe:

I never even had the same concern as you... Remember the 3PT hitch is not made of china

(nor is the rest of the machine

.

When I don't have a mower on, my 3PT is permanently supporting a 500+lb ballast box.

daTeacha · May 17, 2006

The 3 point was originally invented by an Englishman named Ferguson to transfer weight to the tractor, thus enabling a light tractor (N series Ford, most famously) to have the traction of a heavier machine. It is supposed to carry the weight. Note the wording. I didn't say it can, it is supposed to.

Now my question -- almost everyone here mentioned mowing with the back of the mower higher. I tend to work with it level or the front higher. I think there is less throwing of material out the back than with the back higher, and also it seems that the cutting action is done in two stages this way. The front cuts it, and then the back hits it again a bit lower. I don't mow pastures, just some edges, but this seems to work and I don't get much stuff being thrown out the back. Is there some reason to set it up the way you guys do?

By the way, you can damage things with too heavy a load on the 3 point. On my little 'Bota, I once stripped the splined shaft that the lift arms are mounted on, and another time I got the relief valve stuck so the 3 point didn't lift.

On the first occasion, I was trying to tackle some very serious multiflora. The stuff was so big and thick that I actually drove over the top of it, lifting the entire rig about 3 feet off the ground. When one of the tractor wheels found a slightly open spot it sunk, the mower didn't, and the thing twisted about 45 degrees away from the axle. I needed to replace the shaft.

On the second occasion, I was mowing in my woods/pasture to be with the mower set pretty high. I went over a log, the mower lifted, then bounced pretty hard when I came down the other side. It kept mowing, but I couldn't lift it. I couldn't get to it for a while to fix it -- a week or more. When I tried it again, it worked fine, so apparently the jammed valve loosened itself.

daTeacha · May 17, 2006

The 3 point was originally invented by an Englishman named Ferguson to transfer weight to the tractor, thus enabling a light tractor (N series Ford, most famously) to have the traction of a heavier machine. It is supposed to carry the weight. Note the wording. I didn't say it can, it is supposed to.

Now my question -- almost everyone here mentioned mowing with the back of the mower higher. I tend to work with it level or the front higher. I think there is less throwing of material out the back than with the back higher, and also it seems that the cutting action is done in two stages this way. The front cuts it, and then the back hits it again a bit lower. I don't mow pastures, just some edges, but this seems to work and I don't get much stuff being thrown out the back. Is there some reason to set it up the way you guys do?

By the way, you can damage things with too heavy a load on the 3 point. On my little 'Bota, I once stripped the splined shaft that the lift arms are mounted on, and another time I got the relief valve stuck so the 3 point didn't lift.

On the first occasion, I was trying to tackle some very serious multiflora. The stuff was so big and thick that I actually drove over the top of it, lifting the entire rig about 3 feet off the ground. When one of the tractor wheels found a slightly open spot it sunk, the mower didn't, and the thing twisted about 45 degrees away from the axle. I needed to replace the shaft.

On the second occasion, I was mowing in my woods/pasture to be with the mower set pretty high. I went over a log, the mower lifted, then bounced pretty hard when I came down the other side. It kept mowing, but I couldn't lift it. I couldn't get to it for a while to fix it -- a week or more. When I tried it again, it worked fine, so apparently the jammed valve loosened itself.

BamaRob · May 17, 2006

( Now my question -- almost everyone here mentioned mowing with the back of the mower higher. I tend to work with it level or the front higher. I think there is less throwing of material out the back than with the back higher, and also it seems that the cutting action is done in two stages this way. The front cuts it, and then the back hits it again a bit lower. I don't mow pastures, just some edges, but this seems to work and I don't get much stuff being thrown out the back. Is there some reason to set it up the way you guys do?)

The manual for my 5' KK rotary cutter suggest setting the front slightly lower than the back for mowing heavier stuff. But, for a cleaner cut (finer "clippings" to use a lawn mowing term), it suggests setting the back slightly lower than the front. For exactly the reason you mention, the front cuts it, then the back hits it a bit lower. With sharp blades, 540 RPM PTO speed, slow ground speed, front slightly higher than back, you can get a pretty clean cut on grass or hay. It'll almost look like it was cut with a lawn mower or finishing mower.

BR

BamaRob · May 17, 2006

( Now my question -- almost everyone here mentioned mowing with the back of the mower higher. I tend to work with it level or the front higher. I think there is less throwing of material out the back than with the back higher, and also it seems that the cutting action is done in two stages this way. The front cuts it, and then the back hits it again a bit lower. I don't mow pastures, just some edges, but this seems to work and I don't get much stuff being thrown out the back. Is there some reason to set it up the way you guys do?)

The manual for my 5' KK rotary cutter suggest setting the front slightly lower than the back for mowing heavier stuff. But, for a cleaner cut (finer "clippings" to use a lawn mowing term), it suggests setting the back slightly lower than the front. For exactly the reason you mention, the front cuts it, then the back hits it a bit lower. With sharp blades, 540 RPM PTO speed, slow ground speed, front slightly higher than back, you can get a pretty clean cut on grass or hay. It'll almost look like it was cut with a lawn mower or finishing mower.

BR