Help with top link adjustment for rotary cutter.

   / Help with top link adjustment for rotary cutter. #71  
I have done it both ways also. I usually cut with the front slightly higher because I have found that if I hit rocks or debris it will throw it forward not backward. I keeps this in mind as I cut so I feel I have a better chance at guarding against debri damage when I cut near the house or garage. I also leave my blades blunt. I want my brush cutter to rip and tear, not cut. When I want a better finish I go over it later with a mower w/sharp blades.
 
   / Help with top link adjustment for rotary cutter. #72  
I have done it both ways also. I usually cut with the front slightly higher because I have found that if I hit rocks or debris it will throw it forward not backward. I keeps this in mind as I cut so I feel I have a better chance at guarding against debri damage when I cut near the house or garage. I also leave my blades blunt. I want my brush cutter to rip and tear, not cut. When I want a better finish I go over it later with a mower w/sharp blades.
 
   / Help with top link adjustment for rotary cutter. #73  
"if I hit rocks or debris it will throw it forward not backward"

Hopefully you have some thick skin or a guard /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif When I use my RC I keep the front lower than the back and still get hit in the back with flying debris.
 
   / Help with top link adjustment for rotary cutter. #74  
"if I hit rocks or debris it will throw it forward not backward"

Hopefully you have some thick skin or a guard /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif When I use my RC I keep the front lower than the back and still get hit in the back with flying debris.
 
   / Help with top link adjustment for rotary cutter. #75  
I have been taking care of this place for 8 years now. If I were to start cutting some new areas I would definitely cut with the front down and probably fab some chain guards for the rear. I occasionly hit a stick, small rocks, or one of my teenagers junk lost over the winter. I have cleaned so much of it up I even mowed a big portion with a kk finish mower last time, at its max height, just to see how it would do. Looks great. When i started clearing this place I had blackberry thickets that were taller than my brothers Kubotal3450 canopy. I had to take the front loader and knock them over first.
 
   / Help with top link adjustment for rotary cutter. #76  
I have been taking care of this place for 8 years now. If I were to start cutting some new areas I would definitely cut with the front down and probably fab some chain guards for the rear. I occasionly hit a stick, small rocks, or one of my teenagers junk lost over the winter. I have cleaned so much of it up I even mowed a big portion with a kk finish mower last time, at its max height, just to see how it would do. Looks great. When i started clearing this place I had blackberry thickets that were taller than my brothers Kubotal3450 canopy. I had to take the front loader and knock them over first.
 
   / Help with top link adjustment for rotary cutter. #77  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( almost everyone here mentioned mowing with the back of the mower higher. )</font>
The original intent was to have the major work done by the front hitting heavy brush/weeds/saplings and not having a lot of contact with the rear to relieve some of the work on the gear box, etc.

In high, thick material, having the mower level or the rear lower than the front will result in a poor cut and more stress on the system. With the front higher, the tall stuff is going to get pushed down some by the stump jumper before the rear can cut it, for one thing.

Having the mower level or the rear just a bit lower than the front on lighter material is a good trick for replacing a lawnmower. It's not terribly stressful to the system, and gives a pretty good cut, but for the thick, heavy stuff, the front should be a bit lower.

If one doesn't want the stuff thrown out the rear, it's best to but chains or a flap to help slow them down rather than to have the front higher to avoid it. That stuff being thrown toward the tractor can cut/puncture tires, dent/break tractor compenents, and with many tractors, hit the driver.

John
 
   / Help with top link adjustment for rotary cutter. #78  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( almost everyone here mentioned mowing with the back of the mower higher. )</font>
The original intent was to have the major work done by the front hitting heavy brush/weeds/saplings and not having a lot of contact with the rear to relieve some of the work on the gear box, etc.

In high, thick material, having the mower level or the rear lower than the front will result in a poor cut and more stress on the system. With the front higher, the tall stuff is going to get pushed down some by the stump jumper before the rear can cut it, for one thing.

Having the mower level or the rear just a bit lower than the front on lighter material is a good trick for replacing a lawnmower. It's not terribly stressful to the system, and gives a pretty good cut, but for the thick, heavy stuff, the front should be a bit lower.

If one doesn't want the stuff thrown out the rear, it's best to but chains or a flap to help slow them down rather than to have the front higher to avoid it. That stuff being thrown toward the tractor can cut/puncture tires, dent/break tractor compenents, and with many tractors, hit the driver.

John
 
   / Help with top link adjustment for rotary cutter. #79  
So, John, what you are saying is that the things were intended to be used in more or less the same manner as a string trimmer, but on a grand scale. The front was supposed to do the work and the back was just to get the blades around to the front again? That makes sense once you think about it.

The thickest stuff I've cut has been multiflora, and I always have to keep a sharp eye where I'm going to avoid sticking a front wheel in a groundhog hole so I haven't yet hit any teenagers junk or other odds and ends. With the little 'bota and it's 12 inch front wheels, a groundhog hole on a slope could get REAL interesting. I haven't used the 29 for mowing work yet but I'm kind of looking forward to it.

Anything more than a couple inches thick is chainsaw material for me since I'll use it for firewood when I just need a small fire or as kindling. I'm cheap that way. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
 
   / Help with top link adjustment for rotary cutter. #80  
So, John, what you are saying is that the things were intended to be used in more or less the same manner as a string trimmer, but on a grand scale. The front was supposed to do the work and the back was just to get the blades around to the front again? That makes sense once you think about it.

The thickest stuff I've cut has been multiflora, and I always have to keep a sharp eye where I'm going to avoid sticking a front wheel in a groundhog hole so I haven't yet hit any teenagers junk or other odds and ends. With the little 'bota and it's 12 inch front wheels, a groundhog hole on a slope could get REAL interesting. I haven't used the 29 for mowing work yet but I'm kind of looking forward to it.

Anything more than a couple inches thick is chainsaw material for me since I'll use it for firewood when I just need a small fire or as kindling. I'm cheap that way. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
 

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