Help with top link adjustment for rotary cutter.

[Highbeam]

I thought I could save the 2-3" stuff for firewood too but after a couple of cords of this was tediously generated within a 1/2 acre area I realized that there will be no firewood scrounging. If the mower can shred it, shred it. There'll be plenty of big logs for firewood.

I like the string trimmer analogy. That's really how it works but rather than string it is a manly chunk of sharpened steel.

 

[Highbeam]

I thought I could save the 2-3" stuff for firewood too but after a couple of cords of this was tediously generated within a 1/2 acre area I realized that there will be no firewood scrounging. If the mower can shred it, shred it. There'll be plenty of big logs for firewood.

I like the string trimmer analogy. That's really how it works but rather than string it is a manly chunk of sharpened steel.

 

[daTeacha]

I don't really cut much woody stuff at all. I have plenty of real wood -- oak, hickory, locust, etc. -- but I always seem to be short of "branch wood" so I like to get what I can from the stuff I'm working up and mix it into the pile as I stack it.

I'm wondering how the 48" mower will work behind my new tractor, which is wider than the mower. It won't be as easy to cut close to things for sure. I don't know that I use the bush hog enough to justify trading up to a 5 footer, though.

 

[daTeacha]

I don't really cut much woody stuff at all. I have plenty of real wood -- oak, hickory, locust, etc. -- but I always seem to be short of "branch wood" so I like to get what I can from the stuff I'm working up and mix it into the pile as I stack it.

I'm wondering how the 48" mower will work behind my new tractor, which is wider than the mower. It won't be as easy to cut close to things for sure. I don't know that I use the bush hog enough to justify trading up to a 5 footer, though.

 

[Highbeam]

The trick with using the narrow hog to cut close to say a tree is to drive the tractor real close to the tree and then just as the rear wheel passes the tree, make a sharp turn away from the tree which will swing the cutter over towards the tree. Be careful not to hurt the trunk though. Then after the skinny hog has mowed close to the tree and you are now turned, you can back the hog around the other side of the tree and then go forward to stay on your row. Also note that the tail wheel of the cutter actually raises the rear of the cutter a few inches when you are traveling in reverse compared to rolling forward.

Maybe it is too hard to describe. Basicly, lots of turning will allow you to make up for a skinny hog.

 

[Highbeam]

The trick with using the narrow hog to cut close to say a tree is to drive the tractor real close to the tree and then just as the rear wheel passes the tree, make a sharp turn away from the tree which will swing the cutter over towards the tree. Be careful not to hurt the trunk though. Then after the skinny hog has mowed close to the tree and you are now turned, you can back the hog around the other side of the tree and then go forward to stay on your row. Also note that the tail wheel of the cutter actually raises the rear of the cutter a few inches when you are traveling in reverse compared to rolling forward.

Maybe it is too hard to describe. Basicly, lots of turning will allow you to make up for a skinny hog.

 

[daTeacha]

The area I intend to mow has 1 telephone pole to work that trick with. My concern is the top of a ditch bank. With the 'bota, I could crawl along the ragged (watching out for groundhog holes!) and mow the puckerbushes pretty well. With the bigger tractor, I think I'm going to need to back over the edge and lower the mower down. I might get more bank mowed, but I'll put a lot of clippings on the street. Maybe I can get enough lift to do it from below, but then I'd have my nose out on a 60 mph county road, which is not real appealing. I'll just have to see how the tractor handles the mower. It should feel pretty light behind it compared to the 'bota.

 

[daTeacha]

The area I intend to mow has 1 telephone pole to work that trick with. My concern is the top of a ditch bank. With the 'bota, I could crawl along the ragged (watching out for groundhog holes!) and mow the puckerbushes pretty well. With the bigger tractor, I think I'm going to need to back over the edge and lower the mower down. I might get more bank mowed, but I'll put a lot of clippings on the street. Maybe I can get enough lift to do it from below, but then I'd have my nose out on a 60 mph county road, which is not real appealing. I'll just have to see how the tractor handles the mower. It should feel pretty light behind it compared to the 'bota.

 

[Soundguy]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The trick with using the narrow hog to cut close to say a tree is to drive the tractor real close )</font>

I've also seen people adjust their sway chains so that the mower is offset to one side for fence mowing.. etc.

Soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The trick with using the narrow hog to cut close to say a tree is to drive the tractor real close )</font>

I've also seen people adjust their sway chains so that the mower is offset to one side for fence mowing.. etc.

Soundguy