bbse
Platinum Member
Where do they attach???
Help with top link adjustment for rotary cutter.
- Thread starter canoetrpr
- Start date
- Views: 45357
bbse
Platinum Member
Where do they attach???
Highbeam
Super Member
I've seen them hooked to the tractor side top link attachment structure. Maybe set a top link pin in there and attach your chains to that, it should be sufficiently stout.
Highbeam
Super Member
I've seen them hooked to the tractor side top link attachment structure. Maybe set a top link pin in there and attach your chains to that, it should be sufficiently stout.
djradz
Veteran Member
djradz
Veteran Member
Here's my version set up on my RFM.
Highbeam
Super Member
You've got a crazy twist on your belt.
Highbeam
Super Member
You've got a crazy twist on your belt.
3RRL
Super Member
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2005
- Messages
- 6,931
- Tractor
- 55HP 4WD KAMA 554 and 4 x 4 Jinma 284
Higbeam,
You've got a good eye there...that belt looks twisted on djradz"s picture.
Those check chains do help keep the front of the mower from dipping more than without, but there is still some variance in the front cut as the tractor goes up and down swales. It's the swivel link that djradz has attached to his top link that allows the rear of the mower to follow the contours and cut whatever the front missed. Such as when the tractor starts going on the downside of a swale and the front of the mower raises up.
I've got a lot of dips and bumps that are not gradual ones. The more I think about it, gauge wheels on the front of the mower and a floating top link seems like a good idea? What do you think?
You've got a good eye there...that belt looks twisted on djradz"s picture.
Those check chains do help keep the front of the mower from dipping more than without, but there is still some variance in the front cut as the tractor goes up and down swales. It's the swivel link that djradz has attached to his top link that allows the rear of the mower to follow the contours and cut whatever the front missed. Such as when the tractor starts going on the downside of a swale and the front of the mower raises up.
I've got a lot of dips and bumps that are not gradual ones. The more I think about it, gauge wheels on the front of the mower and a floating top link seems like a good idea? What do you think?
3RRL
Super Member
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2005
- Messages
- 6,931
- Tractor
- 55HP 4WD KAMA 554 and 4 x 4 Jinma 284
Higbeam,
You've got a good eye there...that belt looks twisted on djradz"s picture.
Those check chains do help keep the front of the mower from dipping more than without, but there is still some variance in the front cut as the tractor goes up and down swales. It's the swivel link that djradz has attached to his top link that allows the rear of the mower to follow the contours and cut whatever the front missed. Such as when the tractor starts going on the downside of a swale and the front of the mower raises up.
I've got a lot of dips and bumps that are not gradual ones. The more I think about it, gauge wheels on the front of the mower and a floating top link seems like a good idea? What do you think?
You've got a good eye there...that belt looks twisted on djradz"s picture.
Those check chains do help keep the front of the mower from dipping more than without, but there is still some variance in the front cut as the tractor goes up and down swales. It's the swivel link that djradz has attached to his top link that allows the rear of the mower to follow the contours and cut whatever the front missed. Such as when the tractor starts going on the downside of a swale and the front of the mower raises up.
I've got a lot of dips and bumps that are not gradual ones. The more I think about it, gauge wheels on the front of the mower and a floating top link seems like a good idea? What do you think?
