artfull dodger
Gold Member
Not to dive to far off subject, what size finish mower are you running on your YM135 swedish fish? Providing I keep mine, I will be looking for a nice small finish mower for the 3pt hitch. Cheers Mike
help with ym 135 hydraulic tap
- Thread starter green yanmar
- Start date
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swedish-fish
Bronze Member
Hi Mike,
What you see in the picture is actually a Woods RM42 rotary cutter (bush hog). It's a good match size wise for this machine at 42". Not that it makes much difference, but my 155 is two more HP than the 135. Last year I did pick up a 3pt 48" landpride finish mower in hopes of consolidating to one tractor for mowing and light earth engaging work. (I also have a 25 yr old wheel horse). Due to the higher blade speed I think it cuts better than the wheel horse, but it is cumbersome mowing with the loader and the fact that the PTO engages with the transmission. For my situation, it's really not any faster and my neighbors giggle at me and think I'm obsessed with my tractor. Of course, they don't mind when I clear their driveway.
I heard you're moving to the suburbs. If it's any consolation, I live on an acre with about 1/3 of it wooded and I look for any reason to "have to keep" the tractor. I originally got it and a box blade to improve drainage and cut a swale preventing water from puddling against the house. Now we're talking patio. I guess I better keep it.
Sorry, don't mean to derail this thread. Green, I'd be very interested to see your loader. I'm impressed how tough these little tractors are. Just be careful of the front end. They're not as robust as the larger cousins like the 1500 or 1610 or 186. Still, for an acre of land I'm content.
Craig
What you see in the picture is actually a Woods RM42 rotary cutter (bush hog). It's a good match size wise for this machine at 42". Not that it makes much difference, but my 155 is two more HP than the 135. Last year I did pick up a 3pt 48" landpride finish mower in hopes of consolidating to one tractor for mowing and light earth engaging work. (I also have a 25 yr old wheel horse). Due to the higher blade speed I think it cuts better than the wheel horse, but it is cumbersome mowing with the loader and the fact that the PTO engages with the transmission. For my situation, it's really not any faster and my neighbors giggle at me and think I'm obsessed with my tractor. Of course, they don't mind when I clear their driveway.
I heard you're moving to the suburbs. If it's any consolation, I live on an acre with about 1/3 of it wooded and I look for any reason to "have to keep" the tractor. I originally got it and a box blade to improve drainage and cut a swale preventing water from puddling against the house. Now we're talking patio. I guess I better keep it.
Sorry, don't mean to derail this thread. Green, I'd be very interested to see your loader. I'm impressed how tough these little tractors are. Just be careful of the front end. They're not as robust as the larger cousins like the 1500 or 1610 or 186. Still, for an acre of land I'm content.
Craig
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artfull dodger
Gold Member
I do wish mine was a 4x4 model some days, but so far so good with carefull use of the diff lock. I am hoping to sell my 1965 JD 110rf w/mower deck and use the money to get a finish mower for the yanmar. I know of two Woods RM59's I can have my choice of for $250. I am used to the PTO kicking off when I put in the clutch, I mowed for several years with a Farmall Cub and a woods 42" finish mower. I already have the overrunning clutch on the rear pto. I also want to find a small moldboard plow to do garden work and plow at plowing events. Problem is most cat 1 plows are way to large for a 135. I wonder how many of these, the smallest of the green yanmars, are still out there. I dont see very many, mainly the larger models. Cheers Mike
fonman_4859
Member
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2007
- Messages
- 32
I am using a brinley 10" moldboard plow on my 1401D it works great. I took a sleeve hitch version and took the U shaped bracket off a sears sleeve hitch and welded a piece of flat stock across the back side with holes punched in it that allowed me to bolt it to the drawbar on my three point hitch. Then took a hitch stabilizer with a 2" reciever built into it and made the drawbar solid.
The system works like a champ will add pictures later today.
The system works like a champ will add pictures later today.
fonman_4859
Member
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2007
- Messages
- 32
I have less than $125.00 in the whole setup.
OP
green yanmar
New member
- Joined
- Oct 22, 2007
- Messages
- 11
one question thou,did this affect your three pt hitch function?mbrule said:
mbrule
Gold Member
The only affect on the three point is that the loader and the three point cannot be in motion at the same time. My loader valve is a "power boyond" valve.
I am not a hydraulic expert by any means. I built a CadPlans loader and followed their advice how to connect it. I am pretty sure that when the loader is not in operation the high pressure fluid flows through the junction just as it did when it was only a junction block. Hope this helps!
Matt
I am not a hydraulic expert by any means. I built a CadPlans loader and followed their advice how to connect it. I am pretty sure that when the loader is not in operation the high pressure fluid flows through the junction just as it did when it was only a junction block. Hope this helps!
Matt
OP
green yanmar
New member
- Joined
- Oct 22, 2007
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ok so i attached my spool feed to the high pr out as seen in the pics,now the only way to get fluid to the spool is to move 3ph lever to raise then the the loader arms will raise.do i need a plug in the hp outlet to divert flow?and if so will 3ph work?size plug?swedish-fish said:I'll try to help, but I'm sure there are others more knowledgeable than I. On my 155D there's a divider block in the high pressure line between the shifter and the steering column. I gather you can obtain a block that doesn't connect the two lines like the stock block does, but lets you essentially splice in line. I copied these from pages in my owners manual and service manual. Perhaps you can make sense of it.
I've never seen these blocks available. If you find a source, let me know. I'm sure it would be easy to make for someone handy on a mill.
mbrule
Gold Member
Hi,
The second picture is exactly how i plumbed my loader. I removed the original "jumper block", which simply jumped those two ports together. I replaced it with a custom made block that routes each of the ports out, and plumbed my loader as shown. So effectively those two ports are again jumped, but through the loader valve, when the loader is not in motion. I do believe that you need a "power beyond" valve, as indicated by the picture (PBY).
I believe that be tapping in as the photo indicates, that your loader should be before the 3 point in the circuit, therefore the position of the 3 point valve should not affact the loader, but, the position of the loader valve affects the 3 point.
Hope this helps! I am certainly no hydraulic expert and can only lend my experiences.
Matt
The second picture is exactly how i plumbed my loader. I removed the original "jumper block", which simply jumped those two ports together. I replaced it with a custom made block that routes each of the ports out, and plumbed my loader as shown. So effectively those two ports are again jumped, but through the loader valve, when the loader is not in motion. I do believe that you need a "power beyond" valve, as indicated by the picture (PBY).
I believe that be tapping in as the photo indicates, that your loader should be before the 3 point in the circuit, therefore the position of the 3 point valve should not affact the loader, but, the position of the loader valve affects the 3 point.
Hope this helps! I am certainly no hydraulic expert and can only lend my experiences.
Matt
