help with ym 135 hydraulic tap

[green yanmar]

ive checked several of the threads and cant quite find exactly what im looking for.first i have a ym135 identical to boatamike machine,can i simply attach hoses to the two pluds under the seat where the little valve is,if so do i need a haedless plug as needed in other machines?and what is that valve for anyway?ive looked all over for the in and out as reffered to in other threads but no luck. could i drill and tap the intermidiate block between the pump and the in on 3pt?help!!!!!!!!!!!any info would be appreciated

 

[Tom_Veatch]

...and what is that valve for anyway?...

Typically there are two valves under the seat, although some models only have one. If it's the valve directly under the front of the seat and whose stem faces forward and whose handle is reminescent of a water faucet, it's the 3pt safety lock valve and should be left open in normal operation. In closed position it hydrostatically locks the 3pt and prevents it from lowering.

If it's the valve on the side, whose handle looks like a dowel with a pin through it, and pivots fore and aft, it is the 3pt drop rate control. Not all models have this valve. It regulates the speed at which the 3pt lowers.

Since I am woefully ignorant of all matters hydraulic, I'll refrain from offering my opinion/advice on the other topics of your post.

 

[artfull dodger]

I cannot help ya, but if you find out its good for both of us, I would like to add remote hyd to mine as well if its possible. Mike

 

[swedish-fish]

I'll try to help, but I'm sure there are others more knowledgeable than I. On my 155D there's a divider block in the high pressure line between the shifter and the steering column. I gather you can obtain a block that doesn't connect the two lines like the stock block does, but lets you essentially splice in line. I copied these from pages in my owners manual and service manual. Perhaps you can make sense of it.



I've never seen these blocks available. If you find a source, let me know. I'm sure it would be easy to make for someone handy on a mill.

 

[green yanmar]

thank you so much .that is exactly what i was looking for,ill probably just end up having one made.but does anyone know if this is available,maybe at hoye?

 

[green yanmar]

hey swedish,how is your fel plumbed?any pics?before i go cutting and tearin'into this project id like to examine all my options,again many thanks, lou

 

[mbrule]

Hi,

I too have a YM135. When I built my loader, I did as explained earlier, I removed the top of the junction block near the shifter and had a new one mide to splice into the line. I ran my return into a custom made cap with a quick connect that repaced the filler cap for the hydraulic fluid.

I can take some pictures if you guys are interested.

Matt

 

[swedish-fish]

Hi Green,
I have the original Yanmar loader for my machine which I think is the YFL155. It's hydraulic system is totally seperate from the tractors. There is a reservoir in the right upright of the loader and a pump behind the front "bumper" that is driven from the front PTO. It's a pretty slick setup.

I've attached some pictures. By the way, these pictures are when I first got the tractor. I've since acquired two sets of matching wheels. Are you thinking of adding a loader to the 135?

 

[swedish-fish]

Oops... forgot to load the pictures.

 

[green yanmar]

im actually fabricating the loader myself well its really a retro fit of a loader i purchased used off a ford 8n it was agood deal at 200 dollars for valves ,cylinders hoses etc,just alot of cutting welding and fabricating,but i love doing this tinkering and it keeps me busy,just trying to figure the best way to plumb it up.

 

[artfull dodger]

Not to dive to far off subject, what size finish mower are you running on your YM135 swedish fish? Providing I keep mine, I will be looking for a nice small finish mower for the 3pt hitch. Cheers Mike

 

[swedish-fish]

Hi Mike,
What you see in the picture is actually a Woods RM42 rotary cutter (bush hog). It's a good match size wise for this machine at 42". Not that it makes much difference, but my 155 is two more HP than the 135. Last year I did pick up a 3pt 48" landpride finish mower in hopes of consolidating to one tractor for mowing and light earth engaging work. (I also have a 25 yr old wheel horse). Due to the higher blade speed I think it cuts better than the wheel horse, but it is cumbersome mowing with the loader and the fact that the PTO engages with the transmission. For my situation, it's really not any faster and my neighbors giggle at me and think I'm obsessed with my tractor. Of course, they don't mind when I clear their driveway.

I heard you're moving to the suburbs. If it's any consolation, I live on an acre with about 1/3 of it wooded and I look for any reason to "have to keep" the tractor. I originally got it and a box blade to improve drainage and cut a swale preventing water from puddling against the house. Now we're talking patio. I guess I better keep it.

Sorry, don't mean to derail this thread. Green, I'd be very interested to see your loader. I'm impressed how tough these little tractors are. Just be careful of the front end. They're not as robust as the larger cousins like the 1500 or 1610 or 186. Still, for an acre of land I'm content.
Craig

 

[artfull dodger]

I do wish mine was a 4x4 model some days, but so far so good with carefull use of the diff lock. I am hoping to sell my 1965 JD 110rf w/mower deck and use the money to get a finish mower for the yanmar. I know of two Woods RM59's I can have my choice of for $250. I am used to the PTO kicking off when I put in the clutch, I mowed for several years with a Farmall Cub and a woods 42" finish mower. I already have the overrunning clutch on the rear pto. I also want to find a small moldboard plow to do garden work and plow at plowing events. Problem is most cat 1 plows are way to large for a 135. I wonder how many of these, the smallest of the green yanmars, are still out there. I dont see very many, mainly the larger models. Cheers Mike

 

[fonman_4859]

I am using a brinley 10" moldboard plow on my 1401D it works great. I took a sleeve hitch version and took the U shaped bracket off a sears sleeve hitch and welded a piece of flat stock across the back side with holes punched in it that allowed me to bolt it to the drawbar on my three point hitch. Then took a hitch stabilizer with a 2" reciever built into it and made the drawbar solid.
The system works like a champ will add pictures later today.

 

[fonman_4859]

I have less than $125.00 in the whole setup.

 

[green yanmar]

Hi,

I too have a YM135. When I built my loader, I did as explained earlier, I removed the top of the junction block near the shifter and had a new one mide to splice into the line. I ran my return into a custom made cap with a quick connect that repaced the filler cap for the hydraulic fluid.

I can take some pictures if you guys are interested.

Matt

one question thou,did this affect your three pt hitch function?

 

[mbrule]

The only affect on the three point is that the loader and the three point cannot be in motion at the same time. My loader valve is a "power boyond" valve.
I am not a hydraulic expert by any means. I built a CadPlans loader and followed their advice how to connect it. I am pretty sure that when the loader is not in operation the high pressure fluid flows through the junction just as it did when it was only a junction block. Hope this helps!

Matt

 

[green yanmar]

I'll try to help, but I'm sure there are others more knowledgeable than I. On my 155D there's a divider block in the high pressure line between the shifter and the steering column. I gather you can obtain a block that doesn't connect the two lines like the stock block does, but lets you essentially splice in line. I copied these from pages in my owners manual and service manual. Perhaps you can make sense of it.



I've never seen these blocks available. If you find a source, let me know. I'm sure it would be easy to make for someone handy on a mill.

ok so i attached my spool feed to the high pr out as seen in the pics,now the only way to get fluid to the spool is to move 3ph lever to raise then the the loader arms will raise.do i need a plug in the hp outlet to divert flow?and if so will 3ph work?size plug?

 

[mbrule]

Hi,

The second picture is exactly how i plumbed my loader. I removed the original "jumper block", which simply jumped those two ports together. I replaced it with a custom made block that routes each of the ports out, and plumbed my loader as shown. So effectively those two ports are again jumped, but through the loader valve, when the loader is not in motion. I do believe that you need a "power beyond" valve, as indicated by the picture (PBY).

I believe that be tapping in as the photo indicates, that your loader should be before the 3 point in the circuit, therefore the position of the 3 point valve should not affact the loader, but, the position of the loader valve affects the 3 point.

Hope this helps! I am certainly no hydraulic expert and can only lend my experiences.

Matt