GeneV
Elite Member
I want one for my massey scut. Tell me what you got, what size, what cutting edge you got, etc. Curious if having a back drag impedes how much snow it collects when going forward.
Hey cut/scut people with with snow pushers, tell me stuff
- Thread starter GeneV
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kenmbz
Super Member
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- May 8, 2019
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- 6,330
- Location
- S.E. PA
- Tractor
- Massey Ferguson GC1720/Simplicity Regents/Echo CS-490/CS-620
Had wings on this as a pusher, was a little hard to move over 6" or snow.
Took the wings off to use as a plow and much better traction, no chains and some mild slopes.
Plowed when we had 14" in two waves, no problem.
Yard Sarge
Member
I bought an 8' from TSC for my Boomer 47. It is too big in my opinion. Rubber cutting edge seems to work good. I will cut it down to 7' sometime in the future. 6' would be to narrow for me. I use a back blade to clean up by my garage doors.
George2615
Super Member
When I bought my tractor (LS XR3037HC) in 2014 I also bought a 7' pusher box with it. I did add a back drag blade which worked great. But, after one seasons use I sold the pusher box. I found that once the box is full of snow it only wants to go in a straight line. Even with chains on all 4 it didn't want to turn. I then adapted a truck 7'1/2' plow to a quick attach plate and found it much more user friendly. IMO, a pusher box is best used for straight line plowing such as a parking lot. My tractor weighs about 6K or more with loaded tires, a heavy 3 pt weight, plow blade and chains and is still not enough weight to turn a full box of snow.
If you do decide on a pusher I'd limit the width to 5' due to the size and weight of your tractor. I think you would be better to use the bucket or adapt a small 6' truck plow.
If you do decide on a pusher I'd limit the width to 5' due to the size and weight of your tractor. I think you would be better to use the bucket or adapt a small 6' truck plow.
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Stan B
Silver Member
I have an HLA 1800 72" with rubber edge on a Kioti CK3510. No back drag, although I've thought about adding it so I can take the rear blade off. Seems to work well, though I see two areas for improvement in my setup:
1. I could use some more weight on the back. If I'm pushing more than 4" of snow I run out of traction before reaching the end of my ~350ft driveway.
2. I should rig something up, maybe with springs and chains, so when I drop it in float some of the FEL arm and pusher weight remains on my front tires. Steering get's sketchy with a full snow load in float. Take it out of float (thereby putting the weight back on the front tires) and all is well.
It does a good job on concrete and asphalt of scraping down to bare without marring it up.
1. I could use some more weight on the back. If I'm pushing more than 4" of snow I run out of traction before reaching the end of my ~350ft driveway.
2. I should rig something up, maybe with springs and chains, so when I drop it in float some of the FEL arm and pusher weight remains on my front tires. Steering get's sketchy with a full snow load in float. Take it out of float (thereby putting the weight back on the front tires) and all is well.
It does a good job on concrete and asphalt of scraping down to bare without marring it up.
RjCorazza
Elite Member
Nice video! I currently run a front and rear blade, and really like the flexibility. A pusher has been on my radar for several years now for lighter snows, which makes up the vast majority of snows in my area.
I plow several very long driveways where I will need to push snow off the driveway edge and continue on. Shouldn't be a problem driving around a pile and pushing it off with the angled rear blade.
senecak19
Silver Member
I'll play. I found myself in the same situation as you a little while back. Only difference is I'm running a slightly larger machine. I believe the answers you seek are embedded in the details of all the great responses youve received thus far.
In my opinion, the best setup for your machine is going to be kenmbz. Why? Because he's likeliy pushing the ideal with (near max for his machine) and the plow is light weight (because the machine is smaller). Larger machine, heavier implement.
The single most important detail for you, in my opinion is what kind of substrate are you plowing? Pavement is a LOT different than gravel or stone.
You'll see a common theme amongst those with pusher boxes. Most all of us don't have a machine to be pushing them because they hold so much snow. Hence why someone said limit yourself to 5' if you do go that route. And I hope that 5' is pushing on pavement. The ability to slide over is going to help you vs the resistance it would see on stone.
I shopped around for a 7-8' plow for my machine and settle on a 7-1/2 because it was the right price. I also built it to be underslung as done by a few others on here. Simply put, the plow mounts closer to the chassis allowing me to maintain traction, doesn't require as much counter weight because it's not sticking out so far, allows me to rely on just the weight of the plow and not the added weight of the loader arms. At close to 1000lbs, my plow does not need any added weight pressing down. This was in my mind a feasible solution for me and thus I went with it. Can you weld? If so, this is an option. Here's my build thread: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/snow-removal/434120-another-underslung-story.html?highlight=
The other option is fabricate yet again and frame mount the plow without using the loader arms at all. Another crafty fellow on here did it (guy with the John Deere side mounted plow) and serves to be a similar setup as mine and or a normal truck plow as he doesn't have to worry about the added weight of the loader. Your machine being smaller (lighter) is going to have steering problems if you have the weight of your loader arms on a plow.
Hope this helps.
In my opinion, the best setup for your machine is going to be kenmbz. Why? Because he's likeliy pushing the ideal with (near max for his machine) and the plow is light weight (because the machine is smaller). Larger machine, heavier implement.
The single most important detail for you, in my opinion is what kind of substrate are you plowing? Pavement is a LOT different than gravel or stone.
You'll see a common theme amongst those with pusher boxes. Most all of us don't have a machine to be pushing them because they hold so much snow. Hence why someone said limit yourself to 5' if you do go that route. And I hope that 5' is pushing on pavement. The ability to slide over is going to help you vs the resistance it would see on stone.
I shopped around for a 7-8' plow for my machine and settle on a 7-1/2 because it was the right price. I also built it to be underslung as done by a few others on here. Simply put, the plow mounts closer to the chassis allowing me to maintain traction, doesn't require as much counter weight because it's not sticking out so far, allows me to rely on just the weight of the plow and not the added weight of the loader arms. At close to 1000lbs, my plow does not need any added weight pressing down. This was in my mind a feasible solution for me and thus I went with it. Can you weld? If so, this is an option. Here's my build thread: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/snow-removal/434120-another-underslung-story.html?highlight=
The other option is fabricate yet again and frame mount the plow without using the loader arms at all. Another crafty fellow on here did it (guy with the John Deere side mounted plow) and serves to be a similar setup as mine and or a normal truck plow as he doesn't have to worry about the added weight of the loader. Your machine being smaller (lighter) is going to have steering problems if you have the weight of your loader arms on a plow.
Hope this helps.
RalphVa
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2003
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- 7,885
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- Charlottesville, VA, USA
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- JD 2025R, previously Gravely 5650 & JD 4010 & JD 1025R
Got FEL with Frontier back blade, std. edge. Work great up to around 8 inches or so. Then, have to toss FEL loads off to the side.
Got steering brakes; so steering in snow/ice, no problem.
I'm done with just the back blade going forward. With up to maybe 4 inches, this is okay, as snow isn't packed much. If you have trouble going through the snow, if could become a problem because back blade will not remain level.
Ralph
Got steering brakes; so steering in snow/ice, no problem.
I'm done with just the back blade going forward. With up to maybe 4 inches, this is okay, as snow isn't packed much. If you have trouble going through the snow, if could become a problem because back blade will not remain level.
Ralph
OP
GeneV
Elite Member
Guys, thx for the responses and Stan thanks for the vid. I do have a plow, that's what I'm using now. It was a craftman gt snow/dozer blade which I welded on a ssqi plate and now using it on my massey. It works pretty good. But I want a pusher box, I think it would work pretty good here. 5 footer would be max, but I'm actually I'm thinking 4'. I think with a 4' box, I'd be ok running the tractor like I do with the plow, w/o ballast or chains (terragrips in my case because of the blacktop driveway). Tractor does fine with just 4wd when needed.
PILOON
Super Star Member
Consider that when plowing with a truck you have speed on your side.
With speed the snow slides off to the angled side and the faster you plow the further the snow is cast.
It just does not bunch up.
I'd doubt you would want to plow with a tractor at 40 MPH, besides those using their tractor are mainly doing driveways where there are more obstacles and tight spots.
Even a plow truck has difficulties with heavy snow falls.
I had a 4 x 4 3/4 ton c/w 8 ft plow and it was a common event to snap (usually) the right front axle.
Crabbing tends to do that. U joints prefer to spin straight and level.
The best of best is to blow the snow as far away as possible, no frozen snow banks to push back etc.
OK, somewhat slower but gone out of the picture.
With speed the snow slides off to the angled side and the faster you plow the further the snow is cast.
It just does not bunch up.
I'd doubt you would want to plow with a tractor at 40 MPH, besides those using their tractor are mainly doing driveways where there are more obstacles and tight spots.
Even a plow truck has difficulties with heavy snow falls.
I had a 4 x 4 3/4 ton c/w 8 ft plow and it was a common event to snap (usually) the right front axle.
Crabbing tends to do that. U joints prefer to spin straight and level.
The best of best is to blow the snow as far away as possible, no frozen snow banks to push back etc.
OK, somewhat slower but gone out of the picture.
