Hi all

[brendakr2]

Just bought a 1952 Ford 8N. It seems to run fine but hasn't been maintained very well. The hydraulics had water in the fluid so I'm having trouble getting them to lift the implements. I'm counting on the resident "experts" here for tips and guidance.

 

[samhudson3]

Welcome to TBN! Try searching the site for 8N threads, there's probably an answer already out there. Good luck!

 

[DutchHenryBrown]

:welcome:I do like them "N" models your lucky.:thumbsup:

 

[creekbend]

Welcome aboard from North Carolina. Best wishes.

 

[Soundguy]

the N used a common sump for hyds, rear end and tranny. holds about 5g of oil.

if yours are wet, i'd dump in a gallon of diesel, a quart or 2 of old type f or merc/dex 3 atf, and a couple pints of rubbing alcohol.. then run her around the yard a couple laps and then drain.

if the hyds don't leak you can refill with a utf meeting m2c134 spec ( most store brands meet this ).. or you can use a gl1-3 90wt mineral gear oil. tsc and napa sell this.. or use an 80w90 gl4/5 gear oil that lists yellow metal safe. may list MT1 spec as well.

the oil filter for your enfine is a napa 1010 or fram c3 or c3p

plug gap .025

fire order 1-2-4-3

plugs champion h12 (512 ) or al 437 champ h10 and al 216 will work but are oe temp range and may not work well with new gas.

87 octane fuel is fine.

use a crankcase oil based on temps, region and engine condition. in many cases a 15w40 oil will be fine.

front mount 4 wire distribuitor comes off with 2 bolts to set points at .015 easilly... side mount 5 wire distribuitor ..pop cap off and set points to .025 etc.

 

[brendakr2]

Wow, thanks. Great info. I have already drained the hyd fluid, then flushed with kerosene and again with some regular oil I've had around for years then put in fresh 80w-90w gear oil. I don't have the gaskets yet so I didn't want to pull the inspection plates off. They've been ordered. I'm able to lift the brush hog about 5 or 6". But that's all. It seems to hold that pretty well, so I don't think it's leaking. I just want it to lift higher. I'll be changing all the fluids again after running it for a bit. I don't have a farm. Or even a very big yard. Just enjoy tinkering. It would be nice to clear some brush.

 

[Soundguy]

lift height likely isn't a leak issue.

if it lifts at all, it's an adjustment or wear issue if it doesn't lift full height.

if the 80w90 isn't yellow metal safe.. i'd ditch it.

try this. with the 3pt lever up and the lift? 5-6" lifted at max. grab the short lil 3" long draft handle and move it and see if your lift changes position..like maybee even comes all the way up.

if so.. your cam follower pin, and perhaps the cam itself on the rocker, is worn..

i've seen em worn half way thru.. or all the way thru.

sometimes the cam wears sinc ethe pin dos not ride full length on it.. this however leaves you a witness mark for building it back up and filing to fit.

inspection cover gaskets can be rtv'd. they are above the oil level. they are one of the only gaskets I don't mind using rtv on.

NONE of the rest of the gaskets inthe hyds can have sealer or rtv on them.. etc.

if the oil is still milky after your flush job.. before you drain it, dump in some more kerosene or diesel and a few pints of 90% alcohol and run it around.. etc.

 

[brendakr2]

Rtv - DUH. It's been many years since I've done any wrenching. I use to use that a lot - way back when. Never would have thought of the alcohol. Makes sense to help dry up the water.

This is my first tractor so it will be a learning experience. I've been studying everything I can find online and in some books that came with the tractor. Over all, it seems to be in pretty good shape for it's age and lack of maintenance.

 

[Soundguy]

a good service manual to get is an I&T FO-4 if it is not a version with parts diagrams in the back.. then a master parts catalog too. the MPC is about 20-25$ and the fo-4 is about 30$ or so.

great resources.

there is a reprint owners manual for about 5-15$ depending.

the owners manual is the least helpfull of the 3 for maintenance and repair.. however.. for a first time tractor owner.. it might be worth the $$

i can't see from your small pic if it is a front mount with crab cap. or a side mount.. but here is a list I have of oil filter cross ref and front and side mount auto parts sotre ignition parts that are good to use. avoid tisco ignition parts. like tsc. they are cheap and don't last long.. IMHO..:

Ford 9N, 2N, 8N Oil filters:

Ford Part Number: CPN 6371B 9N-18649, 9N-6714, 9N-2731
Fram C3, C3-P
NAPA Gold 1010
Motorcraft FL 144
Balidwin P40
Big A 92010
Bosch 72127
Carquest 85010
Fleetguard LF574
Wix 51010
Purolater L20110 or L20701
Fleetrite LFR-8574
Texaco HSO-100
Unocal OF 1010
White 10575
Hastings Mighty M3LF-130
Luber-Finer P3

Ford 9-2-8n Front mount distribuitor ignition service:

gap points to .015

Front Mount distributor...
Points:
NAPA #CS35
Standard Ignition Blue Streak #FD-6769X (Premium)
Condensor:
NAPA #FA200
Standard Ignition #FD-71
Rotor:
NAPA #FA300
Standard Ignition #FD-104
Distributor Cap:
NAPA #FA350
Standard Ignition #FD-126

Side-Mount Distributor: 8n thru 4 cyl thousand series

gap points to .025

Points:
NAPA #CS749
NAPA HEAVY DUTY PIERCED (ventilated) #CS753
Standard Ignition #FD-8081
Standard Ignition Blue Streak #FD-8081X (Premium)
Condensor:
NAPA #FA66
Standard Ignition #FD-75
Standard Ignition Blue Streak #FD75X (Premium)
Rotor:
NAPA #FA67
Standard Ignition #FD-108
Distributor Cap:
NAPA #FA352
Standard Ignition #FD-128

side mount points hold down screws #8-32 X 3/16
FORD AUTOMOBILE dealer parts counter. come with built-in lockwasher. p/n 355047-S7 (#8-32 X 0.19)

All 4 cyl models can use AL-437 or champion H12 spark plugs instead of OEM Champion H10 or AL 216 plugs.

 

[brendakr2]

Thanks. Those part numbers will save me a lot of trouble. I got the FO-4 and Form 3730-47J (service manual) with the tractor. It's a side mount and it's already been converted to 12v. Thought it interesting for the guy to have these books, but not service the tractor! He inherited it and used it for several years. I've got to get the hang of controlling my speed, especially going down a slope, and operating separate brake pedals. I don't plan on a full restoration at this time. I'm not rich. But would like to clean it up and paint it the correct color. Mechanics first, then paint.

 

[Soundguy]

good deal.. you are already ahead of the game in many respects.

ps.. on the seperate brakes.

many don't like tham and get a piece of radiator stick hose and presses one pedal.. then slips the hose on one pedal.. lubes the other pedal up with dish soap, bends the hose and slips the hose onthe other pedal.. then you squirt water to wash the soap off.

gives you 1 positive break pedal.

 

[The kid]

Welcome to TractorByNet. :tractor:

 

[mguitas]

:welcome:

 

[murphy1244]

Welcome from Ohio, Ain't Sound Guy awesome?

 

[brendakr2]

Thanks for all the welcome's. And, yes, Soundguy is awesome.

I do have a new question on this same tract. Soundguy, I tried moving the draft lever forward after I raised my brush hog as far as it would go (all of 6"). As soon as I moved the draft lever, the mower deck dropped to the ground. Is that's supposed to happen? Also, a repairman was at my house today and he said he use to have the same lift problem. His solution was to weld new pins onto his deck so he could hook up lower down on the deck and that solved his problem. Is this a sound idea? Might this cause more damage? As it is now, there's no way I could put the tractor on a trailer with the brush hog attached. I'd really like to move it closer to where I live (it's currently 85 miles away) but I can't lift the deck without the help of the tractor. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance. You've been more than helpful.

 

[jerrybob]

Welcome.....:thumbsup:

 

[Soundguy]

welding new pins on your mower because your tractor needs repair because it only has 6" of lift resoloution would be like you buying better running shoes vs putting gas in your car to go to work.

you want to treat the symptom? or cure the disease causeing the symptom.

your lift cover needs to com off to address the cam and cam pin and linkage adjustment. might as well chip in 15$ for an oring kit and cyl oring and top cover gasket.

Thanks for all the welcome's. And, yes, Soundguy is awesome.

I do have a new question on this same tract. Soundguy, I tried moving the draft lever forward after I raised my brush hog as far as it would go (all of 6"). As soon as I moved the draft lever, the mower deck dropped to the ground. Is that's supposed to happen? Also, a repairman was at my house today and he said he use to have the same lift problem. His solution was to weld new pins onto his deck so he could hook up lower down on the deck and that solved his problem. Is this a sound idea? Might this cause more damage? As it is now, there's no way I could put the tractor on a trailer with the brush hog attached. I'd really like to move it closer to where I live (it's currently 85 miles away) but I can't lift the deck without the help of the tractor. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance. You've been more than helpful.

 

[brendakr2]

Thank you, Soundguy. That was pretty much my thoughts, too. I now have the gasket set so I can take the whole thing apart if need be. I am thinking about buying a complete rebuild kit and be done with it. I've never liked doing things half way.

 

[Soundguy]

best course of action for sure.