Hill Question

swoods80 · May 23, 2004

I am thinking of looking at a tractor like the Kubota B7510DT but have a steep hill I would need to take the tractor up and down. I do not plan on doing work on this hill I just need to transport the tractor up and down it here and there. I know nothing about tractors but read the article on this forum about "tipping". Is this something I realy need to worry about? Or only if using a loader?

Thanks

MikePA · May 23, 2004

Is this something I realy need to worry about? Or only if using a loader?
It's difficult to say. Is there any way you could quantify how steep the hill is? Most of the time, but not all, the context of 'tipping' has to do with tipping over sideways. Having said that, going up and down a hill, whether with a FEL (filled or empty) can be dangerous. Does the hill have grass on it which can be slippery when wet? Stones? Dirt, mud? Steep hills can be dangerous on a garden tractor.

Only you can evaluate how steep, and therefore how dangerous, your hill is. Again, safety on hills applies to all tractors, with and without a FEL.

Any possibility of posting a picture that includes a frame of reference to gauge how steep it is?

Bird · May 23, 2004

You can actually go up and down some very steep hills. The biggest danger is in getting crossways on a slope and rolling the tractor. Going up a steep enough hill does present the possibility of a tractor rearing up and going over backwards, so if in doubt, back up the hill. There is also a considerable hazard with going down a hill forward with a load in the front end loader. Unless you have an adequate counterweight on the back end of the tractor, the load in front may reduce the weight on the rear wheels to the extent that your brakes are ineffective. Having the tractor in 4WD will provide front wheel braking as well, and keeping the front end loader just as low as possible; barely off the ground will provide a reasonable safety factor, and allow you to drop the front end loader and its load onto the ground if necessary.

polecat · May 23, 2004

u sure r a slow reeeda!!!!!!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Bird · May 23, 2004

( u sure r a slow reeeda!!!!!!!!! )

Maybe so, but I thought it was just that Mike is a faster typist.

Henro · May 23, 2004

You have gotten some good advice here...but the question remains as to how steep is steep?

Ycu can take a carpenters level out and measure run over rise and calculate the angle. This would help in getting good advice. If you are not up on the math to do the calculation, if you get the run and rise numbers someone here will be happy to do the math for you I am sure.

Like Bird said, when in doubt, back it up... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Egon · May 23, 2004

I use a Kubota B7100 on slopes up to 20 degrees. Most of field work is at 10 degrees. Sometimes the degree of slope can be deceiving as it blends into the background.

Just keep the loader and any stuff hanging on the back low and ready to drop.

Bob_Skurka · May 23, 2004

I have a hill that I won't even take my bigger tractors onto it, but it is a compound hill that slopes 2 directions.

On the other hand I also have a fairly steep grade from the road down into my valley, the drop is probably only 18' feet or so, but its a good 20 degree slope. Going up or down is not a problem AS LONG AS THE TRACTOR IS IN LOW GEAR range. If the tractor is in high range it will run down that slope in a fairly uncontrolled fashion (don't ask me how I know). If the tractor is in low range it decends with no problems and is always totally controllable.

Again, I'm not sure of the slope, I guess it at 20 degrees, but neither large tractor can climb that slope in high range.

As others have said, keep the implements low.

If you plan on working on a slope, buy a Steiner, Power Trac or a Ventrac tractor.

swoods80 · May 24, 2004

Thanks for all the reply's. The hill is actually a dirt (I live in the desert) with a dirt road on it. I would guess it at 20 to 25 degrees. I would not be working on it, but I have stables at the bottom of the hill and the house at the top so I would be using it for transportation purposes mainly.

TOMDUALLY · May 24, 2004

If your new tractor has a FEL you might be able to punch a new road at a slant going up the face of the hill this will decrease the angle of the climb and give you a lot of 'seat' time. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Robert_in_NY · May 24, 2004

To expand on what Bob said, whenever you are going down a hill keep the tractor in a low range and never push in a clutch. Let the engine do the work and you can apply some brake pressure (keep the brakes locked so you can't hit one more then another and spin the machine). If you have a hydro then I do not know how it handles on hills as I have never used one but if it is a gear then please do not push in the clutch if you start to pick up speed going downhill. It will make matters much worse.

JerryT · May 24, 2004

I have a JD 4400 Hydro and routinely go up and down the backside of my dam. In some spots it gets to be 30 degrees. Never had a problem with the hydro in mid range. Highly recommend 4wd for this.

Bob_Skurka · May 24, 2004

Very good point about the brakes, and keeping them locked together! On a slope if you brake only one wheel you will flip the tractor. Mine are always locked together unless I have a specific reason to unlock them. I should not have taken that for granted as we each have different uses for our machines.

I suppose my earlier post should have read:
DECENDING: With a hydro, keep the tractor in LOW gear, do NOT push in the clutch, use BOTH brakes if braking is required, keep the implements low, do not even think about turning, make sure there are no ruts in your path.

CLIMBING: With a hydro, keep the tractor in LOW gear range because if you get stuck going up hill you will end up having to shift ranges and that will require locking your parking brake, depressing your clutch and shifting to LOW gear.

One of my tractors can climb my small slope in MID range if I don't have the bucket full or a heavy implement hanging on the back, the other tractor only has LOW or HIGH and can only assend in LOW. I make it a practice to climb only in LOW range simply because I know it will work safely with either machine, and because even with my larger tractor, there are times that MID range is not geared properly to climb (such as when I have a load).

KYFARMER · May 24, 2004

Find a local farmer and ask his advice.
It has been suggested that you keep the brakes locked together. If pedals are on different side I believe this is not possible. Also I live in a hilly area and I have never known a farmer who locked his brakes together. Most tractors, after awhile will require more pressure on one side than the other. Also, one side brake may be needed for steering or even traction.
Not saying anyone is wrong; just my ideas.

JerryG · May 24, 2004

Also I live in a hilly area and I have never known a farmer who locked his brakes together. Most tractors, after awhile will require more pressure on one side than the other. 
Different area do thing differently, I guess. Most tractor that I have worked on have the latch rusted, to where it is hard to unlatch. When they get to where, they are uneven, it is time for a brake adjustment.

Bob_Skurka · May 24, 2004

( one side brake may be needed for steering or even traction. )

I would agree with this for every area EXCEPT on a hillside. If I understood the original post properly, the question relates very specifically to safely climbing and decending a steep hill. I think using one brake to steer while decending a steep hill will almost guarantee a roll over and a good test of the seat belt and the ROPS.

JerryG · May 24, 2004

There are some times, that independent braking is beneficial on hill sides. I for one, have used it to prevent a roll over.

DAP · May 25, 2004

In my opinion, this is exactly what NOT TO DO. Slanting a road will do 2 things.

1. REDUCE the degree of tilt (generally a good thing in theory only)

2. INCREASE the risk of a roll over (generally a bad thing in actual practice)

Number 2 above should outweigh Number 1 above any day of the week. We're talkin tractors with generally a high center of gravity and an open operator's station. A pickup may be another story.

/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Bird · May 25, 2004

Doug, either you misunderstood what he was saying or I'm misunderstanding what you're saying. Making a new road with a lesser angle or re-doing the existing road to make less of an angle would just make it that much easier and safer to travel on.

TOMDUALLY · May 26, 2004

The things in my mind don't always transfer down to my finger tips when making post. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif what I ment to say is build a road going at an angle up the face of the hill. while at the same time keeping the roadbed level side to side. Hope this makes it a little clearer.