</font><font color="blue" class="small">( If the drain cock is plastic, )</font>
Update:
1st, the drain cock was replaced (by me) couple years ago. I installed a 3/4 copper nipple and a 3/4 ...drats, what kind... not a ball valve... anyways, I installed a shutoff drain that when opened, had a full 3/4 passage into the tank. This way I could more easily, help the accumulations of calcium through. I might add that I moved this same drain valve over to the new heater.
Back to the update: Bought new tank and spent 5-midnight on Sunday not only putting new tank in, but rerouting the water heater OUT of the closet under the stairs and into the garage.
Built a base out of treated wood for it and put it where I wanted it. Plumbed from IT towards the lines I was breaking it into. I debated the flexible lines but figured I'd not need them since I was starting from scratch.
Re-routed the electric over from old location to new. Fortunately, I have some extra wire left over, as in it was a shorter run to the new location than the old location.
The old tank had a single shutoff on the cold side. I shut it and cut the hot side pipe. I capped it off so the old heater is electrically OUT of the circuit and is almost out of the circuit from a water perspective.
At least I'll have no more water flowing backwards into it to then leak onto floor. I'll take the heater out of place this weekend and cap the lines off.
It wasn't a "big" job, nor complicated... I tend to work slowly and think too much as I'm doing some of these things. The reason I tend to think too much is I've done this (plumbing projects) in the past and finished them, to only find out, I connected (crossed connected) the cold line to the hot line... once I discovered that, I had to undo it, FIX the undo, and then REDO it to make it right /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
Don't anyone tell my wife though... I got her thinking I know what I'm doing!
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