Big Barn
Super Member
- Joined
- Aug 20, 2013
- Messages
- 6,874
- Location
- Victoria, B C
- Tractor
- More than 40 over the years. Ten at any one time. Mostly Ford and New Holland
I like your tools SA. Im quite disappointed you didn't bring them out when I was over!Another thing, is to get the nut and bolt real tight. These two things are a big help in doing that!![]()
I keep my helpers in the house when I have visitors!:laughing:I like your tools SA. Im quite disappointed you didn't bring them out when I was over!
IMHO... The bolt hole should be as close to the diameter as possible.
Once the bolt is in the properly sized hole and tightened to specifications, it becomes part of the metal piece.
There are applications where movement is needed, a bridge bolted too tight will fail sooner than one that can move in the wind and Chang weight. The same goes for each application, as stated, allowable tolerances are engineered in, not decided on when the holes are being made.
Another way to look at it is, if all the holes are 1/8 to 1/4 oversized, every time I you move the tractor with a load all of the bolts need to move in the hole to hit solid metal, add up all of the movement and the tractor or a piece of equipment is out of alignment and is not pulling properly or is wearing where it shouldn't be wearing.
I go back to the original statement... Make the hole as tight as possible !
As others and especially Hoss has mentioned the application and loading is key. Edge distance is a consideration for a couple reasons. One is tear out... if your hole is close to the edge of the structure and the load is generally in that direction then you want the hole to have at least 2D edge distance (measured from the center of the hole). Bolt fit (clearance vs. tight or interference fit) generally is only an issue in fatigue situations where the bolt can help create a little compression zone around the hole. Holes and notches are where cracks cracks start. A loose fit bolt not clamped/bolted down tight enough for operating loads will also produce excessive wear and maybe eventual failure of that joint or inadvertently overload somewhere else. Another preventive but probably way overboard step would be to ream your hole so it is smooth. Smooth surfaces wear better and slow corrosion and crack propagation.
So... in the end... it is always a compromise as to the fit of the fastener and the ease of fabrication and install. My :2cents: