Home building (rear) wheel wts

[jgh]

20051013

OK, here is my plan, and improvements/comments are really welcome:
[see attached picture of wheel disc]
1- I'll measure to determine the max diameter for my wt mounting disc (c 18")
2- Make plywood disc of same diameter using string compass, etc)
I have to do this principly because I cannot find an engineering diagram ANYWHERE for the "W13-24" wheels on my tractor to locate the holes.
3- Put 3/4 carriage or similar bolts in the wheel holes & secure them with nuts so they stick straight out enough to receive the mounting plate (template first) and bolt it securely
4- Mark center of template to confirm where the weight hanging rod will go
5- Put marking ink or similar on end of each bolt
6- Push wood template against them to mark locations for holes
7- Drill holes in template for confirmation including calculated center hole
(for 1" mounting bar for weights); check it out for fit
8- Have 2 discs cut (1/2" plate?) & drilled for the 3 0.75" mounting holes and 1" center hole on each;
9- Get 1" solid rods and have them threaded for securing on discs:
Determine max length needed for hanging ___ wt discs;
Consider the tractor width it adds!
Thread one end (by pipe machine?) Drill ends for retaining pins;
10- Get bolts, nuts, washers, lockwashers as needed;
11- Bolt a rod to each plate so it looks like a horseshoe goal when laid on its flat side;
12- Bolt on the plates with the 1" rods using 3 ea 3/4" bolts, etc;
13- Add barbell style wts, secure end of each rod, and feel good about them thare hills again!

And take 'em off anytime I want!

I could change that center hole to use olympic size weights if necs. They appear to be more available (Dick's Sporting Goods, etc).

Have I missed anything, friends?

Thanks!

Jim
1- Gee, think that picture came out BIG enough? Go figure!
2- Be sure to see the thread "fluid filled tires" under Owning/Operating if you have not been following it, related comments on fluid vs wts

 

[Soundguy]

Yard sales are a good source of those weight lifter plates.

Soundguy

 

[RobertN]

That's a very similar project. The Mike I mentioned was on here before it became TBN, back when it was a Kubota only site. It was back when there was maybe 50 or 60 members, and it took days, not minutes, before someone read a post, much less responded to it /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif The information shared though, was very helpful and informitive, just like now /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[JerryG]

Here are my lifting weight wheel weights.

 

[jgh]

20051107

OK, at long last, here are the results of my project:

Worth the Weight1
see also page 2, next picture.

Anyone who wants more information or pictures, write me. This works well so far, though I only have 100# on each side since those were the only 100# plates available in the area right now.

I decided to bolt the rod on instead of welding it. And I used 3/4 steel plate instead of half as originally planned. Sturdier and more weight.

I also dished out my tractor wheels, from 72" to about 84 in the rear, and a bit less increase in front due to supersteer and my loader frame. I feel MUCH better on hillsides now.

Thanks to all for the help and advice. Comments are welcome.

Jim

 

[PineRidge]

Jim that's a nice looking way to add weight to your New Holland. You may want to consider shortening the mounting bolt a bit so that you don't snag and bend it on a stump.

 

[JerryG]

Looks good. I am sure that you will notice a real difference using it. I hope that the nuts don't come loose, it could cause you trouble. Not long after I made mine, I had on of the welded on bolts break out the center. It looked like we used the wrong kind of steel for the wheel plate. /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif Well anyway, what it did was drop the weights and broke the valve stem.

 

[jgh]

20051107

Yep, I'll cut each rod once I figure out how much length I need for the max wt discs I put on. They cut pretty easily with my portable band saw

Nice thing about the rod (I cut one from TSC in half) is that it can be replaced w/o welding if the threads get messed up, etc.

Also, I used lock washers and nylocks everywhere I could, so I'm's a hopin' not to lose anything any time soon /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

I still need a tilt meter but the one thing it will not protect against is stepping into a hole at a bad time. That along with some bad judgement is what led to my turnover last year, in addition to the narrowness of my machine. Its size is nice most of the time (smallest 80 pto hp machine I know of).

Jim

 

[jgh]

20051107

Jerry, one odd thing that happened to me was that my valve stems wound up on the inside after I re-dished the wheels for more width.

Also, I went to three quarter steel because someone I spoke to at a machine shop thought half was a bit thin for what I was doing. I figure bigger would add wt even if not necs for strength, although not as cheaply as the cast iron barbell wts.

BTW, my plate did not fit at first since I had asked it to be 19.5 inches in diameter to give max clearance to the 3 bolt holes, which was too tight to at first fit into the wheel disc. And the plasma cutting job was not too smooth around each plate's edges by any means. I had to add some length to the bolts used to attach it and some washers (about 10 on each bolt. But it seems very secure.

Getting ready to test it out on my bush hogging hillsides tomorrow! Lots of brambles, et al, to be rid of /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif

J

 

[jgh]

20051216

Actually I think it was those cedars I was manuvoring in. You shoulda' leaned harder on me on that score /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif. Soon as the Wx allows, I will post pics of the bent rods!

Fortunately replacing both will only cost $15 plus my time.

I've also finally gotten the rest (300# for each side) of the wt I need.

J