Home shop crack detection?

[yomax4]

The bare cast rod with flux that George mentioned is another neat way to fix cast. I used to sell a product called Kastwelld 111. It looked like and probably was, Cast iron particles stamped into a 18" stick. It had a flux that helped and for some reason I remember wrapping bare copper speaker wire around it when brazing cast with it.

 

[dfkrug]

Been repairing cast for 35 years , engine blocks are best repaired be
lacing with threaded plug and preferably ( lock & stitch) for that application.

Please explain that process, George.

 

[george md]

I assume you meant the the lock & stitch plugs . Once you have the crack tapped back to as near as
possible to where it was , drill a #7 hole , counter bore the hole for head of plug , tap hole with special
tap ( threads are hoked thread) , install plug with sealer and top of plug will wring off at proper torque.
Cut remaining top of plug off, move over most of the width of a plug and do it again , Then come back
and put a plug in between each of the first ones , grind smooth , when done it will be hard to locate the
repair .
Use lock & stitch for most blocks and flat areas , and iron tite plugs for cracks in heads in seat and
combustion area . Lock & stitch .com , also read the 4 pages on cast iron welding there , it is the
info that would take you several years of trial and error to learn.

Look at to links at the bottom of this post for many repairs.

george

 

[george md]

Yomax ,

The rod is poured cast and I have used near 100 lbs of kastweld , and also 100 lbs of airco before they sold
out, and 200 of rod from tucker valve seat co. Seems the best flux comes form Superior Flux in OH.

Call me some nite an chat .

george

 

[crazyal]

...the cracks become pretty apparent. Not as crisp as magnaflux, but magnaflux only works under black light. With this process I can grind on the cracks and if I lose them, then I can reapply the product. I'm pretty satisfied. It saved me from having to grind out the center weld which was not cracked and I was able to find some additional cracks that I couldn't see before the process. If you compare this picture with the painted or wire brushed photo you can really see the hidden cracks that are now highlighted.

Actually magnetic particle inspection can be done without a black light. Instead of using fluorescent particles suspended in a liquid you use a powder that is dusted on. The main reason for using the wet method is that it's much easier to see the crack. The downside is that you have to keep natural light out and you really need to make sure your solution has an acceptable ratio of magnetic particles and suspension fluid. Also the UV bulbs weaken over time so both the bulbs and the solution need to be checked each day before testing. Testing in the field often means not being able to control things like sunlight so the dry powder method is more likely to be used.

 

[Richard001]

OK, I know that this a welding form, but, as this is not structural, I would suggest using JB Weld.

I have used it a few times and it always works for me. Now I never had to fix a water jacked on an engine, but you might want to give it a try.

 

[Cord]

So a couple of weeks ago I was able to get the Silicone Bronze program from Lincoln. Now typically the rep will come out and install the programs for you. This rep was lazy and wasn't willing to extend any effort. She basically e-mailed me the program and washed her hands of it. I got the program installed on my lap top and went out to install it. That's when I realized a special cable was required. I went back to the rep and she sent me a link to the cable that was required. I ordered the $25 cable and strangely it required a driver. Tried to install the software again and I couldn't figure out how to use the software. The rep wasn't returning my calls so I just took the welder into a service center and told them to install the software. They said it would take 20 minutes. Well, that turned into a cluster F***. They called me when they were 6 hours in to tell me about all the problems they were having. The next day they had the software installed, but it took multiple calls to Lincoln and 12 hours of labor. Thankfully they comp'ed me 6 hours, but the bill was still close to $600. The president of the company is going to bat for me to try and get Lincoln to comp me because the rep should have installed this software for free. The shop did say that this rep has been a problem for years and they were going to file a complaint on my behalf.

So it's a warm day today (40 degrees), I have the program installed and now have a laser temp thermometer. We weld! Hopefully I can post some pretty pics later. We'll see...

 

[pmsmechanic]

OK, I know that this a welding form, but, as this is not structural, I would suggest using JB Weld.

I have used it a few times and it always works for me. Now I never had to fix a water jacked on an engine, but you might want to give it a try.

My friends and I have done this on engine blocks several times. It actually works. Grind out the crack and apply JB. Once it's semi hard press a shop cloth type rag into it and remove for a cast iron texture. Once the block is painted it's hard to see the repair.

I've had good results with using ArcTec 223 rods. They aren't made for cast iron but they work. 28% stretch in the weld.

 

[drizler]

My friends and I have done this on engine blocks several times. It actually works. Grind out the crack and apply JB. Once it's semi hard press a shop cloth type rag into it and remove for a cast iron texture. Once the block is painted it's hard to see the repair.

I've had good results with using ArcTec 223 rods. They aren't made for cast iron but they work. 28% stretch in the weld.

You have a point there. There is something even better though called Devcon. It痴 a ceramic like epoxy that痴 not drippy like JB just smear like cake batter . I fixed a freeze crack on the head of my 4.3 SBC Mercruiser back in 2005. Never touched it again after filing it the next day. Just a typical V grind and dremel tool wire wheel grind was the only prep. 800 hours on its still fine.

 

[yomax4]

So a couple of weeks ago I was able to get the Silicone Bronze program from Lincoln. Now typically the rep will come out and install the programs for you. This rep was lazy and wasn't willing to extend any effort. She basically e-mailed me the program and washed her hands of it. I got the program installed on my lap top and went out to install it. That's when I realized a special cable was required. I went back to the rep and she sent me a link to the cable that was required. I ordered the $25 cable and strangely it required a driver. Tried to install the software again and I couldn't figure out how to use the software. The rep wasn't returning my calls so I just took the welder into a service center and told them to install the software. They said it would take 20 minutes. Well, that turned into a cluster F***. They called me when they were 6 hours in to tell me about all the problems they were having. The next day they had the software installed, but it took multiple calls to Lincoln and 12 hours of labor. Thankfully they comp'ed me 6 hours, but the bill was still close to $600. The president of the company is going to bat for me to try and get Lincoln to comp me because the rep should have installed this software for free. The shop did say that this rep has been a problem for years and they were going to file a complaint on my behalf.

So it's a warm day today (40 degrees), I have the program installed and now have a laser temp thermometer. We weld! Hopefully I can post some pretty pics later. We'll see...

Not to cause controversy but I checked with friends at a company that has a bunch on MP's and they all had the SIB program in them from the factory. I'm wondering if yours is an old model or if it wasn't programed correctly from the factory.? Also, If i were you I'd get your rep's bosses name and burn her *** for not helping. She should have been glad to help you.