Home shop crack detection?

[Cord]

I spent a little time today on the phone with the welder rep trying to get the program for Silcon Bronze. I got so far as to confirm it does exist. Now I just need to get the rep motivated to get into the field to download it to my machine. The good news that it's a synergetic program and would be for pulse.

I'll be honest, I really wanted 20lb so I could play with the wire more before committing. I can't load 2lb spools in my machine, but I'd be interested in the bigger ones. PM me if you're still interested in selling...

 

[yomax4]

Now you're speaking my language, Synergic, Downloadable Programs !!!. I'll send you a PM on the wire and I'll ask to know what power supply you are using. Pulse and SIB are made for each other.

 

[Cord]

I have a Lincoln 350MP

 

[Cord]

Well, I got to welding the crack last night. I first started on a piece of scrap iron and after fiddling with the settings I got some beads that wet out pretty well. I went to the block and the weld refused to take. Yea, I could lay something down, but it wasn't wetting out. I'd grind the weld out and there would be a very fine line separating the brass from the iron. Found that by preheating the iron and then cranking up the volts to put me deep into spray transfer I could get a bead that would wet - but only on one side. There must be something in the iron that's repelling the Silicon Bronze. Doing more research as to what my options are at this point...

 

[yomax4]

Surprised that it would only take on one side. Did you try it again with a weave type bead? Know anyone with a Spray Powder Torch? It would be a simple fix.

 

[dragoneggs]

Cord, this is a very interesting thread even though I haven't had the pleasure to try something the same. Keep posting. I do have an old vice that could maybe benefit from this knowledge.

 

[Cord]

Surprised that it would only take on one side. Did you try it again with a weave type bead?

That's the thing, I could never get a bead started. You ever try to paint something without prepping the surface? Lots of fisheye in the finish? Painting over the surface a second time just makes the fisheyes even more obvious. That's how the weld was behaving. Yea, I could deposit brass, but it wasn't adhering. You could see the edge of the bead was actually curled under. When I tried to run a bead the arc would jump away and leave a large void. Weld in the crack and there would be a channel where the bead built up next to the vertical edge of crack. I ended putting spot welds down, but they still seeped water because it wasn't fully bonded to the iron. This is not how the material tested on my sample piece of iron. There has to be some other metal is this block that the brass isn't compatible with.

I'm going to try a different gas and see if that has any impact on the weld performance.

 

[yomax4]

That's the thing, I could never get a bead started. You ever try to paint something without prepping the surface? Lots of fisheye in the finish? Painting over the surface a second time just makes the fisheyes even more obvious. That's how the weld was behaving. Yea, I could deposit brass, but it wasn't adhering. You could see the edge of the bead was actually curled under. When I tried to run a bead the arc would jump away and leave a large void. Weld in the crack and there would be a channel where the bead built up next to the vertical edge of crack. I ended putting spot welds down, but they still seeped water because it wasn't fully bonded to the iron. This is not how the material tested on my sample piece of iron. There has to be some other metal is this block that the brass isn't compatible with.
ne hundreds of repairs from
I'm going to try a different gas and see if that has any impact on the weld performance.

You have to use Argon with SIB. Other gas will be a bust. When do you need this fixed? I'd like to have a go at it with Spray Powder. I've done hundreds of cast repairs from old tractor pedals, antique tractor parts, manifolds and even a Corvette engine block. Never had a failure and it's as easy as falling off a log. Google it and check out the video. Anyone and everyone who repairs cast should have a look.

 

[george md]

You have to use Argon with SIB. Other gas will be a bust. When do you need this fixed? I'd like to have a go at it with Spray Powder. I've done hundreds of cast repairs from old tractor pedals, antique tractor parts, manifolds and even a Corvette engine block. Never had a failure and it's as easy as falling off a log. Google it and check out the video. Anyone and everyone who repairs cast should have a look.

Cord,
Been repairing cast for 35 years , engine blocks are best repaired be lacing with threaded plug and preferably ( lock & stitch)
for that application. any arc weld will contract and pull away from the base material because the base is not ductile and can't
move. Yomax's spray might work , but again the heat is the problem. I have spray and like it alot but flat areas of cast don't
lend themselves to heat applied repair. If you have not hardened the cast by arc welding ,you can drill it for lacing plugs ,if it
got hard you are committed to doing some kind of gob job . A good job with plugs and ground over and finished with a
needle scaler ,you won't be able to see the repair .I did a 13 inch crack in an oliver block a while ago , when done you
could find the repair if you knew where to look .I do most cast iron repair with O/A and bare cast iron in stick form and
a good cast iron flux , but you block won't work with that unless you can heat the whole thing in an oven .

george

 

[Cord]

When I got the engine, the crack had already been arc welded and the weld had failed. Lock-n-stitch was my first choice, but it couldn't be used because it had already been welded. I think the brazing problem was due to the iron being too cold. The wire just couldn't put enough heat into the base metal. I'm going to try preheating the block and then try brazing it again. If this attempt doesn't take, then I'd be game to try spray. The problem is that I'll have to clean all the existing brass off before changing processes.