Homemade Ballast Box

[joe04785]

So I'm looking into making a ballast box for my ck35. I pretty much got it narrowed down that I will make some forms and pour cement. I'm just looking for ideas here but, is everyone using a drawbar for the side links? What is everyone using for the top link? I know there are many options. Like I said, I'm just looking for ideas. Do I need to add rebar or will it be ok with no rebar. Thanks.

 

[RedNeckRacin]

A search would be the best start, there have been hundreds of threads on this.:thumbsup:

 

[aeblank]

You need rebar!
Search around for your other questions. Lots of threads.

I'm going to use a 55 gallon barrel, a drawbar, and otherwise scrap steel and rebar. Then fill 'er up with concrete.

 

[N2DFire]

Dad made ours from a cut down 55 gal drum and some scrap iron. Used a piece of thick wall angle iron for the cross bar and welded bolts on for the lift pins. Top link was 2 pieces of flat stock bent to shape and welded to the angle iron inside the barrel. The barrel was filled with what scrap metal we had on hand, and field stone we collected mowing. Lastly everything was topped off / filled around with concrete when he poured the floor in the workshop. It's not pretty but it's heavy and close in to the rear of the tractor and you know its there when you pull back the 3pt lift control.

I'll try and get you some pictures when I'm up there tomorrow night.

 

[George2615]

Here;s another made from a 55 gallon drum. Weighs about 850-900 lb.

 

[msb1766]

Here is what I made, Has a draw bar inside for the 3 point arms and threaded eye bolts that are welded. also welded in some rebar.

 

[joe04785]

Thanks for all the replies and pictures. MSB 1766 what did you weld your eye bolts too? Did you weld it to the drawbar? What size drawbar is everyone using? 20", 26", 31"? Thanks

 

[msb1766]

Yes I welded the eye bolts to some rebar inside, just cut to fit and tie everything together. The front eye bolts are for the top link and the other two are in the center so I can lift and move it with the front end loader.
I built it to be set on the dolly so I can just push it around the garage.

The draw is 20" (I think it is a Cat-0) got it from Tractor Supply.
The reason I used the 20" draw bar is that is the same width a my back blade is so I would not have to adjust the side links to swap between the back blade and the weight box.

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

Use a cat 1 tow bar and be sure your top link pin is the correct height in case you ever want to use a Quick Hitch. I added a chain saw scabbard, 4" pipe, 2" receiver hitch, and a box on top. 1000lbs. Form pic is prior to adding rebar.

 

[Ford850]

See my post #4 in this thread for my pics and description. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...55-gallon-drum-ballast.html?highlight=ballast

 

[aeblank]

If you have (or will ever want) a QH, make it QH compatible....

 

[joe04785]

Thanks for all the responses. You guys are great. I do have another question about something. When you say make it QH compatible, what is the proper height for this? Does it depend on the tractor? Also I'm trying to figure out the correct height to mount the drawbar. I read that it should not be less than 12" high. Another question I have is do I mount the top link right directly above and inline with the side links????? Or do I have to have it offset a bit. Thanks

 

[aeblank]

Mine is going to be similar (off the ground) to my back blade. Not sure about a "spec" for that dimension.
The dimensions between the 3 points are called out though, such as 15" vertical between the lower and upper connections.
Could get the QH and then build it "to match"...

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...designing-lpgs-asaequickhitchimplementdim-jpg

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...-various-designs-asaequickhitchdimensions-jpg

 

[msb1766]

I took the dimensions from my back blade, draw bar width and from the center of the draw bar to the center of the top link.
I set the draw bar height by making the plywood box set the box on the dolly, marking where the lift arms at there low point and there high point and found a happy medium.
Took one side of the plywood box off drilled the holes for the draw bar lift points put box back together, welded the rebar and draw bar and eye bolts all together then filled the box with concrete, let it setup for a week took plywood off.
If you are going to be setting the box on the ground you have to have enough space from the draw bar to the ground to get back the lift arms under the draw bar.

 

[bcp]

Quick hitch implement specifications.

Bruce

 

[N2DFire]

OK so I made out to get some pictures tonight.

Dad filled this with "leftover" concrete from a garage floor pour last week. I still need to wire brush off the overflow and paint it. I wasn't really ready to fill it otherwise I would have added a couple PVC tubes for tool handles but I can always add them on the exterior later.

 

[Garycw]

That sucker looks heavy!! Great job. I need to get a welder and learn how to weld.
I'm just using a rear dirt scoop with a huge boulder right now on a scut w/loader. I like your dads design better though

 

[jodebg]

Everything Attachments sells a receiver hitch.

3 Point Trailer Hitch for Compact Tractors

Can this be used cast in a container of concrete for use on a compact tractor?

Guessing the container would have to be custom made for a total weight of 5-700 lbs.

 

[aeblank]

Everything Attachments sells a receiver hitch.

3 Point Trailer Hitch for Compact Tractors

Can this be used cast in a container of concrete for use on a compact tractor?

Guessing the container would have to be custom made for a total weight of 5-700 lbs.

It could, but is an awfully expensive way to go. That one doesn't look to be QH compatible. I have a King Kutter one that was cheaper, and is QH compatible......if you wanted to go that way.

 

[PJSprog]

Pretty cleaver design, Steven.