Homemade Pull behind grader

[bcp]

The closer the scraper wheels are to the blade, the less the blade moves when the tractor dips/rises. Generally, the tractor wheels are on the uneven ground, and the scraper wheels are on smooth ground. If the blade is 1/2 way back, it dips 1/2 of what the tractor dips. If the blade is 7/8 way back, it dips 1/8 of what the tractor dips.


Wheels way back for leveling:

Wheels close for smoothing:

Bruce

 

[Renze]

I am pretty amazed that you can carry that much on the blade without sliding sideways, but apparently you've got more weight there than it looks.
Lookin good.
Smiley

The angle is only 30 degrees, so the lateral force would be roughly 50% of the traction the tractor delivers. If you move the same amount of soil sideways at 45 degrees, the side force would be equal to the tractor draft force, but because the dirt moves sideways faster, there is less dirt dragged along so the draft force is reduced.

If the blade has offset as well, you can offset the blade to the roadside when crowning: Then the offset wants to pull the blade to the middle of the road, where the blade angle wants to pull it to the side: this way you can pretty much balance the lateral forces.

 

[Renze]

Wow! That is awesome! You have inspired me. I am building something similar starting with a front mount hydraulic blade. Gonna be interesting. Still not sure how far behind the blade to put the wheels. I hear logic in both close and far???

Our municipality has an angled front blade to maintain the sand roads around here. They occasionally use it on a gravel road as well, which is hilarious to see: When they put just a little downforce on the blade when crowning the road, they end up with the front end in the ditch.
Also, there was a contractor around here, who mounted a heavy packer on a swing arm, on the front of his ploughing tractor. Result: tractor broke in half in the 2nd season. Tractors usually dont like these lateral forces, they would need a support frame like a front loader.

A blade in the rear would be much easier to control, when angle grading.

 

[smiley]

[QOUTE]Originally Posted by smiley
I am pretty amazed that you can carry that much on the blade without sliding sideways, but apparently you've got more weight there than it looks.
Lookin good.

Smiley

I mentioned this because my experience with a lot of hours on heavy highway graders is that sometimes when carrying a full load on the blade, even they can slide the front end sideways or break traction and the rear slips sideways.
Smiley

 

[Rebater]

I am wanting to build a road grade such as the one you built and it looks like what I am looking for. Do you have any plans that I could follow? Contact me at: drhuff2@q.com

 

[CNC Dan]

I am wanting to build a road grade such as the one you built and it looks like what I am looking for. Do you have any plans that I could follow? Contact me at: drhuff2@q.com

I built one too. Look for my first post. I used a trailer axle, and an old snowplow edge.

 

[bcp]

I built one too. Look for my first post. I used a trailer axle, and an old snowplow edge.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/258933-homemade-road-grader.html

 

[Rebater]

I copied off several views of the grader but I'm not real clear on how the snowplow is connected to pivit. Don't have any other old pictures of how it was assembled do you?

 

[bulldogshotgun]

i built a long tongued BB for driveway work.
Building pull type Scraper from BB.

 

[boggen]

oldie thread. but wondering if OP has a picture of the rear. near the axle showing the pivot