3-Point Hitch Hooking up a Rotary Mower to a JD Quick Hitch

[Rad1956]

I have a JD 3720 -- I'm new, this year, to the JD Quick Hitch! I know that you are supposed to have some play in your rotary mower hook-up -- How do you do that with the Quick Hitch?

 

[jenkinsph]

What do you have for a mower? A couple of pics would help.

 

[RoyJackson]

I have a JD 3720 -- I'm new, this year, to the JD Quick Hitch! I know that you are supposed to have some play in your rotary mower hook-up -- How do you do that with the Quick Hitch?

The "play" is only at the upper link from the mower to the QH. There's a "U" shaped bracket at the upper connection (of the mower) that allows the mower to float across uneven sections of your lawn.
If your's is like mine (also a Deere QH), it'll require some modification to accomodate the mower's top "floating" bracket. I had to have a bracket welded to the top of my QH to allow use of a link to the mower's float bracket. BTW, the "link" may be an optional item from your mower's manufacturer.
Normally, without a QH, it's just a matter of lengthening the top link of the tractor.

Turns out the spacing between the QH lower hooks didn't match my (Befco) mower, so I haven't used the QH yet.
However, several TBNers have modified the QHs and/or implements to work...so, as jenkinsph wrote, a couple pictures of what you have will help in advising you.
In the interim, you'll probably have to remove your QH when you rig your mower.

 

[beenthere]

:welcome:
There's at least one recent thread on this question. Will look......

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/john-deere-owning-operating/203757-will-mower-work-imatch.html

 

[Rad1956]

The Attached picture shows the attachment -- I just don't see how the play is achieved! Sorry for being so ignorant -- I am fairly new to the tractor scene. There is just such a huge investment in all of this, I don't want to do it wrong!!

 

[RoyJackson]

The Attached picture shows the attachment -- I just don't see how the play is achieved! Sorry for being so ignorant -- I am fairly new to the tractor scene. There is just such a huge investment in all of this, I don't want to do it wrong!!

The mower's upper hitch point is attached to the upper hook on the QH. I cannot see anyway that would provide for the mower floating, but you might try extending the tractor's upper link. That will put the QH on a bit of an angle, but might provide some float.
I've seen optional links (for aftermarket RFM's) that connected between the mower and those top two holes (above the hook) of the quick hitch. The Land Pride QH has a floating top link, for example.

So, three suggestions:
1) Contact your Deere dealer, since both the QH and your mower are Deere brand. They should have a fix for this...but it won't be connecting to that upper hook.
2) Take a look at the operator's manual for the Land Pride QH (pg 11). Here's a link: http://www.landpride.com/ari/attach/lp/public/manuals/320-003m.pdf and fabricate a similar floating link bar (#2) to go between the Deere QH upper holes and the mower's floating bracket. This is what I'll end up doing IF I use the QH with my mower. However, it looks like the upper hook may interfere with the float (meaning any links would have to be outside of the upper bracket holes rather between them.
3) Wait and see how other TBNers with the Deere QH have done to accomodate the mower. I'm a bit surprised some haven't responded already.

I suggest you contact the Deere dealer first...again, you're using all Deere branded equipment. The dealer should have the easiest answer. BTW, have you read your mower's manual? It might discribe the QH hook up. As far as your QH, I doubt you got a manual...I didn't.

 

[beenthere]

That pic does show how it "floats". But it only shows it in tension mode carrying the rear of the deck. It will fold at the dual pins (one is a pivot, the other is a bumper) about 8" aft of the top iMatch hook (as I recall).

A better "fix" is to replace the steel straps that angle to the rear of the deck with chain. That allows more "float" and more freedom than one pictured. (posted in linked forum thread).

 

[jenkinsph]

Rad,

Looking at your picture you look to be good to go. This assumes your IMatch hook is around a large bushing and horizontal bolt and nut.


The problem with adding chains to the rear is keeping the front mast in the up position to allow you to hitch up easily. A couple of compression springs to counteract the chain tension would help.

 

[RoyJackson]

That pic does show how it "floats". But it only shows it in tension mode carrying the rear of the deck. It will fold at the dual pins (one is a pivot, the other is a bumper) about 8" aft of the top iMatch hook (as I recall).

That's not going to allow for much float, beenthere, especially going down into a dip then driving back up...

I know a lot of TBNers do replace those straps with chain (especially on rotary cutters). I'm not a big fan of that as it would seem to reduce the rigidity of the mower deck.
Land Pride has a pretty good solution and I'd be surprised if Deere doesn't have a solution (although they didn't when I bought my Deere QH last year).

 

[beenthere]

That's not going to allow for much float, beenthere, especially going down into a dip then driving back up...

I know a lot of TBNers do replace those straps with chain (especially on rotary cutters). I'm not a big fan of that as it would seem to reduce the rigidity of the mower deck.
Land Pride has a pretty good solution and I'd be surprised if Deere doesn't have a solution (although they didn't when I bought my Deere QH last year).

Don't off-hand know what LandPride has, but the Deere float shown in the pic is as much as the non-iMatch compatible have for movement. Not enough for me either.

I've the chains on my Deere 513 rotary cutter, and they don't reduce any more "rigidity" than the straps. Just sayin.... If it were just one chain, maybe that would be an argument but not two chains. The steel straps on many rotary cutters are bent because they don't accomodate enough movement (as in the example you mentioned). Chains do accomodate.

 

[RoyJackson]

Don't off-hand know what LandPride has, but the Deere float shown in the pic is as much as the non-iMatch compatible have for movement. Not enough for me either.

I've the chains on my Deere 513 rotary cutter, and they don't reduce any more "rigidity" than the straps. Just sayin.... If it were just one chain, maybe that would be an argument but not two chains. The steel straps on many rotary cutters are bent because they don't accomodate enough movement (as in the example you mentioned). Chains do accomodate.

I've seen your pic of the cutter before...I'd be surprised if an RFM has metal as thick as on that cutter...could be wrong though.

So, Rad1956 has several options now...let's see how he does.

 

[beenthere]

Well Roy.
Whether the tension to lift the rear of the rotary mower deck is carried by the two steel straps or by chains, both connect to whatever frame is at the rear of the deck. Makes no difference as I see it.
So don't have an idea what you are getting at by "metal as thick".

 

[RoyJackson]

So don't have an idea what you are getting at by "metal as thick".

The metal the deck is made from. I know my 60" Land Pride cutter deck metal was thicker then my 60" Befco RFM decking (1/4 vs 3/16ths, IIRC).
To me (just MHO), there should be no need to modify the implement (especially since the tractor, QH and mower are all Deere products) to get it to work as advertised.
The only implement my Deere QH fits is the Deere ballast box (although, to be fair, I haven't tried it with my cutter). It does not fit the RFM (Befco), chipper (Woods) or back blade (ancient...manufacturer unknown).

Anyway, let's see what Rad1956 comes up with...

 

[jenkinsph]

I will try to find the time to hook up my MX6 to the tractor and see how much tilt I can get out of it and take a picture.

One plus I have is I can put my top link cylinder in float mode too.

 

[Rad1956]

To All:

Thanks for all your help! It has been very helpful. I think that there is some play in the system -- and I will try out some of your ideas -- however, our farm is 4 1/2 hours away and I only get there every couple of weeks. Bummer! I'd rather be on the tractor.

 

[beenthere]

Here is a pic of the RC2060 Frontier that shows the tension straps going midway to the steel frame on the deck, and the "hinge" bracket that flexes (folds) behind where the top iMatch hook fits on the rigid A frame. Might just see to it that the bolt at the hinge is not too tight for easy flexing.
To operate, lengthen the top arm of the 3 ph out so the rear RC wheel always runs on the ground when cutting. The rear wheel then only picks up when the 3 ph is raised high for travel. Also shows the parts breakdown of the folding hinge seen in the pic.

 

[RoyJackson]

Yeah, I finally was able to access the manual for a Deere cutter...
Deere's link to the attachment page was down...
Looks like that forward pin (not the aft pin that hinges) would really limit travel going down across a dip or backing up a slope (as Beenthere's picture in a previous post shows).
This is where that floating link (shown in the Land Pride manual I linked to) really shines. There is considerable float in both directions (cresting a hill as well as down and up a dip)...just as if the tractor's top link was hitched directly to the upper floating bracket.
However, there is a provision for the same kind of linkage (on the Deere QH) if you hook to those holes above the top hook to the corresponding holes on the cutter's A frame. I wonder if Deere has such a link (I wasn't told about and kind of link when I bought my QH. So, if Rad1956 needs more travel (float), he'll probably have to fabricate the link or do the chain thing.
BTW, I'm thinking this out since I'll probably have to fabricate the same kind of linkage if I ever use my QH...

At least in the interim, Beenthere and I agree that the tractor's top link will have to be lengthened (see my post #6 in this thread) although I don't see that as a permanent solution.

 

[beenthere]

Roy
I'll help you out a little more on the pivot point, which is the aft pin. See the pic below from jdparts for the RC2060. #6 is the pivot pin.

 

[Johndeere3720]

With my Dad's 3720 when i hook up to his MX6 I have to get off the tractor and hold the A frame forward on the mower and operate the lift lever at the same time while off the tractor. It isn't my favorite way to do it but proper safety precautions are implemented to this procedure. It appears that your rotary cutter is similar to the MX but it looks like it can hold the A frame forward a bit more. To gain the tilt ability so you can back up to those steep inclined banks then chains are the way to go since the tilt is limited on your rotary cutter as it sits. I know that a chain for the top link would work too but I'm not sure that it would be the safest way to gain the desired tilt angle.

 

[RoyJackson]

Roy
I'll help you out a little more on the pivot point, which is the aft pin. See the pic below from jdparts for the RC2060. #6 is the pivot pin.

Item 3 is Deere's version of a floating link...but as described in my post #17, travel is limited by #4 pin. You wouldn't back up a slope or go through a dip with this geometry. (BTW, with the Land Pride cutter's floating link, I don't think you could back up a slope quite as steep as Beenthere's chains arrangement...but it'd be pretty close. There's one place in the field I mow that has an embankment I back up...I'll have to see how steep it actually is (meaning a picture to compare to Beenthere's)
Beenthere's illustration from JD Parts does show it clearer then Rad1956's picture