Horse fence questions

   / Horse fence questions #1  

Desi

New member
Joined
Sep 13, 2005
Messages
1
Does anyone have the 440 fence? Or any other steel pipe or pipe/cable combination that looks nice, doesn't pose risk to the horses and is secure? Was going to go with the 440, but the price of a 4-rail is almost $12/foot so we're comparison shopping. Appreciate your opinions!
 
   / Horse fence questions #2  
Desi,

A buddy of mine is fixing to fence in about 2 acres of his 10 acre 'stead. I'm not sure what you're after, but what most do around here (unless they're related to Donald Trump) is use 2-7/8" pipe for corner uprights, 2-3/8 for intermediate uprights, and 2-3/8 top rail - all welded. Then it's a coin toss for another horizontal rail to finish it or they'll surround it with 4x6 or similar wire.

2-3/8 pipe runs about $.95 to a dollar per foot around here.... add another .05 to .08 for delivery if it's being trucked in from oilfield country.

I don;t know if this'll help, but I hope it does.
 
   / Horse fence questions #3  
If that twelve dollars a foot is complete and installed I'd suggest you to jump like a frog on a bug.

I personally don't recommend pipe and cable for horses because of mane rub. The same thing can happen with pipe and pipe. If you want an attractive fence that is secure and safe and will live a long time I recommend V-Mesh on a schedule forty galvanized framework.

However, twelve dollars a foot won't get it.
 
   / Horse fence questions #4  
DO NOT use wire cable for horses. While at a stable with wire cables our mare got her hind legs through the fence. During her struggles to get free the cable acted like a rasp on her skin. The skin was torn down to the meat. After surgery and close to $3,000 she still as blemishes on both hind legs. The worse leg has a raw area about the size of a quarter after 5 years.
On our property we use wood rails in any confines area. In the pastures we use high tensile wire.
 
   / Horse fence questions #5  
Desi -

I just put in a perimeter fence on our property - we will be adding more of the PVC with hotwire in the spring so we may have horses. The attached link has pictures of what we've done, etc.

Good luck!

Shortened Long Link

-Bob

MikePA: Cleaned up long URL. Please review your message before posting it. It's simple not to do this. Just insert a descriptive word or two between the {url=http://whatever}<font color="red">Enter words here</font>{/url} instead of the entire URL. Replace parentheses {} with square brackets in previous example.

Alternatively, if you use the Instant Markup language URL link, the first prompt is for the URL. The second prompt is for a description. Do not simply paste in the URL again. Type a short description of the link.
 
   / Horse fence questions #6  
We always run field wire (approx. 3 inch mesh) with a wooden top rail. The trick is getting the top rail high enough that the horses don't try to reach over and keeping the wire close enough to the top rail that they don't try to reach through. That's not to protect what's on the other side of the fence so much as to protect the fence itself.

We use 4" wooden posts and throw in a 6 or 8 inch every 3rd or 4th one just for extra support. I've never really priced it all out from new since we always seem to be doing part of it with recycled parts. (Old corral poles for the top rail, used rail road ties, etc.). It would fit the bill for being better looking than the pipe-and-cable IMHO.

My experience has taught me that no matter what the salesman tries to tell you, horses can find a way to get hurt on anything you put them in. Therefore, I try to stick with something functional that won't break the bank.

One more thing. I've never put concrete or cement in my post holes. You can do just as good of a job by getting the right moisture in your soil, digging a good, deep hole, and tamping all the way up. Cement just makes it harder to get out when you break something or change your mind. YMMV
 
   / Horse fence questions #7  
Your doing a nice job on that. Looks good. How are you getting the boards to stay in the posts? You crimping the edges with something? Or will they slide right out?

-Thanks.
-Mike Z. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / Horse fence questions #8  
I play,
I noticed you said you do not put any cement in any post holes.. Does that go for gate posts holes as well, or do you cement those?

Thanks,
Daniel
 
   / Horse fence questions #9  
Thanks!

The 16' sections of PVC come with pre-tabbed ends that "snap" into place when you put them in the posts. In situations where we need to go with 8' sections (you stagger the boards), we have a tabbing tool that makes the tabs in the ends so they lock in place. It's a pretty slick way of handling it!

Check out the website: www.gardnerfence.com - they have instructions, etc., there on how it works.

Thanks again for your kind comments! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

-Bob
 
   / Horse fence questions #10  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( tabbing tool that makes )</font> Life easy. Yep, I have done the vinyl thingy and it is difficult at best without those tools.

Now that I have level land I may once again someday get into vinyl fencing. On hills, it can be .... interesting.

-Mike Z. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

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