Horse fence questions

[phantom309]

I put up a pipe fence (2 3/8" oil field pipe) with a single top rail. Then welded on a 3" piece of T-post to the middle to provide an easy way to attach insulators for a hot wire. Ran double strand non-barbed hot wire all around to keep the horses away from the fence. They respect the hot wire.

Over the last 8 or 9 years since we put up the fence, I've had the hot wire and a couple insulators torn lose twice in the middle of the night. I secure the ends of the hot wire with lightweight wire to allow it to break free easily. I'd rather they tear it down then get caught up in it. The double strand is stiff enough that there's not much of a chance that they can get it wrapped around them once it is down. The top rail keeps them in until I discover the problem and fix by resecuring the end.

Good luck.


Mark

 

[MrSteve]

Have you looked into www.electrobraid.com fencing? I have this type of fence for my property lines and use wood fence for the paddocks. I would use it all over, but the wife wanted wood on the inside of the property (nice look of it).

Electrobraid is great fencing, BUT make sure you have a good electric fencer that you can trust UNTIL the horses get use to getting kicked on their butt, they WILL stay away from it after you teach or they teach themselves about the fence (my horses stay a foot+ away from the fence when eating)

It isn't bad on cost, I think it is about 1/2 (maybe less) of what wood fence would cost. EASY to put up, you only need a post every 25 feet or so on your fence runs. The link I gave above will give you FULL details about it.

If you wish I will take a few picture so you can see what it looks like by someone that has installed it, just let me know.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I haven't put cement in gate posts. I dig deeper and use a thicker post. I will brace them, though, with a pole going from the top of the gate post down to the bottom of the post one away from it. If I've got the time, I'll wait at least a week before hanging the gate to let everything settle.

The whole trick to this process is to make sure that the ground has the right amount of moisture. We get almost no rain, so I'll irrigate the area with one inch of water two or three days before I plant the posts. Check the moisture by grabbing a hand full of dirt and making a fist. If it gets your had wet there's too much moisture and it won't pack. If it won't stay in a ball after you release your fist, it's too dry.

I may just live in an area where the dirt is good for it. I would guess that if your soil is too sandy, you won't get the right compaction regardless of what you do.

 

[MrSteve]

I was outside in the back so I thought I would take 3 pictures while I was there… Any questions just ask.

Oh by the way, I don’t use cement on any of my post also, my ground is sand until about 1 ½ feet then starts to turn to a heavy clay the deeper I go. The only 6x6 post I have are for the Electrobraid ends. My wood paddocks are ALL 4x4 even at the gates, BUT I put a “small” 4x4 in the ground to rest the gate on so not to stress the post on the hinge said of the gate.

Anyhow to the pics of the Electrobraid…

Now if you look at my fencer you can see it is solar powered. This is NOT a great fencer (like I said above to get a good one), point being that fencer keeps the horses away.

 

[rmonio]

Mike -

It also requires a battery-powered Saws-all tool for nipping the openings (slots) for the rails. With one of those you can navigate the hills, inclines, etc. pretty well... /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

-Bob

 

[rmonio]

For the PVC fencing you have to use concrete - at least an 80lb bag per post. You also fill the gate posts with concrete when you hang the hardware. This is different than treated lumber where you don't have to concrete everything and rock compaction with dirt is sufficient.

-Bob

 

[Soundguy]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I noticed you said you do not put any cement in any post holes.. Does that go for gate posts holes as well, or do you cement those?
)</font>

I don't put any cement in any holes.. gate or corner included. Course.. I buy the largest posts I can find for the gate. I use H braces and brace wire on areas that are 2x4 fences and wood board, and angle braces on areas that are barb wire only.

Soundguy

 

[mffarmall]

I have pipe but instead of welding it. I used bolts that are flat on the horse side. This was cheap to do and I can take down the fense when I need too. I also used straight wire and 7' T post. One thing that I don't get is putting boots on the fence. I grew up in Arizona and the Navajo would use a boot to tell people if they were home. Some times there houses were miles from the road. So if a boot was turned out it ment they were not home so don't waste the time.

 

[mffarmall]

I have a question about pulling wire tight. I use my lawn tractor to pull the wire then I cut it after attaching it to the corner wood post. Is there a better way?

 

[MrSteve]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I have a question about pulling wire tight. I use my lawn tractor to pull the wire then I cut it after attaching it to the corner wood post. Is there a better way? )</font>

A better way, not sure this is... Put one post in the ground 6 ft from your last fence post, then one more 6ft from that one, now put in a cross brace, connected a chain pull to the FARTHEST post and pull your wire... Now remove your temp post you installed for pulling and fill in holes... More work YES, BUT you will have a VERY stable pulling point.