Horse Round Pen

[Lloyd_E]

I will be starting our horse round pen tonight. 50' diameter, actually a little larger to allow for buffer so grass will not grow in - hopefully. Will post pics of project.

This is my plan of action: Any advice?

1: stake out pen area for reference - completed
2: mark diameter 50'+ - completed
3: remove stakes as first pass is completed*
* slight slope to area - will need leveling
4: continue passes to reach grade as desired.
5: check grade with laser level
6: level sand before or after posts installation
7: add rails and gate
8: add stone around outside perimeter, outside of solid boarding-in at base
9: build retaining wall (round field stone or stacked slate) where diameter curve cut into slope - about 24"

??? Should I put sand in place before marking for post holes or add sand once posts are in place but before installing rails? Posts are 4" and auger is 9". This will allow us to lean posts on angle slightly.

Posts will be 5-6 feet above ground level. First 2-3' of boarding/rails at ground level will be solid with 18" of spacing to top of posts. May add top cape rail for finished look.


Any input is appreciated. Will be using rear blade plus box blade and loader for removal of material and to add sand.

Lloyd

 

[threeman]

My honest opinion. Level it with your eyeball with slope maybe to one side. Reason being, sounds like you have a lot of time involved in leveling. After you use it for several months the level will no longer be there. You will have a rut all the way around the pen. Probably some divets through the middle. I just make do, not to worry about level, drag it once in awhile. It works wonders on the horse if you have about 2' of sand in it. You will cut your round pen time in half. Key being the horse will work more in the loose ground making your work faster. I wouldnt make any board between post any longer than 10' max. The longer you stretch them out the more corners it will have.

Just my opinion.

I wish I lived on a sand hill so that my round pen had an endless supply of loose sand for footing.

 

[Lloyd_E]

threeman

Started tonight. Used back blade - useless. Cut a mark in upper slope of circle.
Switched to the box blade - correct tool for the job.
Set ripper teeth to cut sod - cut upper half of circle. I am trying to tear into upper part of slope to start the leveling process. I realized the best range is med and low in 1st or 2nd gear. After each pass I remove soil/sod out of the way for the next pass. I will use this material to fill in some dips around the pasture/yard and to bank lower half of ring.

Yes to the ten foot board. So if I am off by 4-6 inches - will the wear and tear along with dragging it eventually level it out for the horses?

It looks like I will have about 18 to 24" of soil to remove from the bank to get it level. A lot of soil and a lot of work & passes. Once the sod gets broken up I think I will just use the bucket to get rid of the initial material.

Should I remove top soil or leave it to mix with the sand? We will be loading in 24 yards of sand initially. Also, would you auger holes and set posts before adding the sand? And obviously - do the rails last to allow more flexibility to inter pen area.

Thanks,

Lloyd

 

[Soundguy]

Ditto what threeman said.. i did my round pen 'easy' like that.. and yes.. it ruts and clods up so that you have to drag it pretty soon..

soundugy

 

[Lloyd_E]

Thanks everyone...

Some pics are attached:
59 - shows stakes in place
61 - show stakes in place different angle
63 - is first pass with blade - useless
05 - show many passes with box blade and the slope.

Once the sod is broken up I will remove material with loader to get to grade faster.

Off work for the next few days. My deadline is Saturday if weather holds. Hopefully land will be graded with sand in place and holes/post started.

Lloyd

 

[davkir]

Set posts in sand or flume stone. Easier to change when (not if) the horses break one. If you don't angle the posts out quite a bit, it's easy for the horses to hit your foot/leg against the posts. You can add rails to the inside instead to prevent that. If you're planning on using this all year, make sure you have some drainage.
We use a chain harrow to level ours and it only takes 5 or 10 minutes.

 

[Lloyd_E]

Thanks Davkir,

Posts are 4 inche sq. I have a 9" auger - plan was to auger to depth and allow posts to lean out in the hole and pack dirt/earth around them. Now reading your suggestion - will use sand to secure posts in place.

Rails will be added on inside and I plan on boarding in the from the ground up for the first 24-30 inches. And than space rails everything 18 inches to top of posts.

Lloyd

 

[tallyho8]

I have always used round posts in a round pen. I have wondered how well you could nail boards to a square post at that angle.

 

[Soundguy]

I've used rounds, half rounds, oblongs ( landscape timbers ) and 4x4.. as long as you are using a 3" nail, it all works fine.. I'f I'm being real picky.. I cut the board ends at an angle so that they mesh at the 'V' instead of leaving a void on the back side..

soundguy

 

[pitt_md]

I made my round pen on ground that looks to have about the same amount of slope to it as yours does. I used the fel to cut into the uphill side and put the dirt on the down hill side. Then the box blade was used to level everything out. I used premade steel pannels for my walls and did not put sand down because I intend to move it when a new barn gets built.

 

[Lloyd_E]

Just finished 5.5 hours of seat time. Used loader to cut into bank and box blade to level. I am about 90% there and the misses will probably note the other 10%!

When it comes time to set the posts and rails I will be using an air nailer with 3" ring nails.
This should hold and hopefully the ten foot span/angle will not create too much space behind the post and rails.

24 yards of sand will arrive in the morning. I will spread and level and than do posts. Rails will arrive next week. I have a bunch of 16' rails but I don't want to cut them to ten feet.

Lloyd

 

[Lloyd_E]

A few more pics... slow going.

Lloyd

 

[bigballer]

Lloyd - looks good i finished my roundpen this summer (2nd one actually) and had quite a slope, i pulled alot of dirt, mostly with my box scraper to level it. in order to keep the water off of it i added a french drain on the high side and built a rock wall to keep things in place. i decided to use the corral panels that lock together so if i need to, i can move them to get my tractor in. i still haven't gotten the right footing in though - started with hogfuel which was a waste of money, so i'm going to put sand in before winter but first i must do some more leveling. overall i'm pretty happy with it and more importantly my wife is too - she's the one that uses it! here is my post, you can get an idea of the wall from the pics i posted..

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/121333-log-retaining-wall-behind-round-2.html

 

[HD03King]

any updates on this project???

HD03King

 

[Lloyd_E]

See farm days...

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/130115-farm-days.html

 

[Lloyd_E]

Big Baller,

We have room behind the rails to add a slate wall. I will be starting this in the next few weeks. Your wall looks impressive. Unfortunately we don't have squared edged granite for building...all the stuff out of the field is round and some of it huge.

Lloyd

 

[Egon]

Lloyd: All you need is a drill and some feathers and wedges. Then you have life time of rocks at hand.

 

[Lloyd_E]

...and time. A lot of time.
Also, if you drill and fill with water and cork with wood plug - when they freeze they will split too. So I am told. I will try a couple...have to make the wedges first.

Lloyd