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   / House #1  

RobS

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Jun 26, 2000
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Goshen, IN
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OK, it's not really a tractor project but I'll get a lot of seat time out of it. Here's a shot of the plans we just had finished up for our new house. This is where all my time, energy and MONEY will be headed over the next year. Hopefully, I'll have an actual photo to post sometime in August '02 /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

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   / House #2  
Wow! Great looking house!! Looks like quite a bit of roof. How many squares and what material, cedar shakes? What will the siding be?

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   / House #3  
Absolutely beautiful Rob...! /w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif

Love all those windows... and God's natural light coming inside... /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

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   / House #4  
Rob, Gonna use fishscales on those peaks?

Very impressive design indeed. Especially the curved window detail. Are those glass transoms depicted over the first floor windows. Looks like high ceilings too. What's the sq. footage gonna be.

For a time I had a big 2 story house w/full basement, attic, etc. It was great. 9ft ceilings, 72" high windows, porches front and rear, slate roof, 6 " wide mouldings thruout. Enjoy /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

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   / House #5  
WOW! looks realy good. I also will be building this spring. Mine will be a little smaller, but I can't wight.


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   / House
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Thanks guys. Yes, a boatload of windows. I counted 50, but fortunately the window suppliers count multiples as one. It's just over 3200 square feet. We've been working on the design for the last year. 10 foot first floor and 9 foot second floor ceilings. There is a third floor with regular stairs but we won't finish that (yet). Same with the full basement. We're even putting "storage" trusses over the 3 car garage for more potential space.

We're using the same "theme" that we did on our current house. We're putting the money in the base structure and "thrifting" a bit on some of the cosmetics. For example, 2X6 walls and upgraded windows but vinyl siding (and fishscales) and asphalt shingles. We're going to do some of the work ourselves, but not much. The big savings are in the areas we just cannot commit the time to. We are going to build the porch below the roofline just to make sure the boards "go the right way". I've always been ticked that our current house porch boards run parallel to the house.

Thanks again for the compliments /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

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   / House #7  
Rob,
Are you building this yourself or contracting it?

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   / House #8  
Rob,

It looks beautiful! We moved into our new house last April after building for one year. I wish that all the money went into it during that year, but it keeps going and going and going...

Your idea of build the basic structure well and skip on cosmetics is what we did also (to some degree).

A couple upgrade ideas while you are building (you probably already thought of these). Since you are in the colder north install the plastic tubing in the basement floor for radiant heat, we did the install ourselves and the tubing only cost $900. We later splurged and had someone install the boiler. You might also want to consider putting the radiant heat in the garage, its wonderful to have the garage at 55 degrees and have the snow and ice melt off (make sure that the ice and snow have a place to go /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif). Radiant heat makes all the difference for how a basement "feels".

What type of insulation are you getting? I had planned on fiberglass but was talked into the "stabalized cellulose". Its great! It does cost more than fiberglass but the R-Value is incredible and the difference it has made in my windy area is very nice. The cost to heat my new house (4300 sq ft) is the same as my old house (2000 sq ft - fiberglass insulation). The "old house" had new doors and windows with similiar r-values to the "new house" so I know the heat was not escaping there. The ROI on the "stabalized cellulose" is probably around 3 years for us.

Have fun working on your house and keep us updated with pics as you go along.

DaveV
 
   / House
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Richard, we had originally planned to contract ourselves but as the design got more complex we did a reality check. Also, a similar style house was going up near our property and they did their own contracting. It's been a year and a half for them and they have finally moved in, though it's not yet finished.

We shopped a bunch of builders and found one we really click with so we're going to use them.

Bottom line for us was a complete lack of connection in the sub-contractor base. We knew we wouldn't get any kind of priority and just cannot afford to have the project drag on.

If/when we build the barn I want, we'll contract (or actually build) it ourselves /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

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   / House
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Dave, we have the cellulose insulation in our current house and do like it. Added on a couple of years ago so got to see the insides of a wall after about 8 years. No settling whatsoever. I did try to pull some speaker wires up an exterior wall a while back. Needless to say, those wires are still dangling from the speakers to the floor in plain view /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif That stuff is dense /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

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   / House #11  
RobS,
Good point on the speaker wires. Run all of that stuff + more before you seal the walls up. I've been modifying our future house plans for several years. Here's what I'm going to do for my whole house Audio/Video/Computer wiring. I'm going to install seperate wall boxes on every wall in every room(some walls get two). Then I am going to tie together all of the wall boxes in each room with conduit. Then from one of the end boxes in each room I am going to run conduit to the basement. That way, any modifications in the future will be easier. Notice, I said easier, not easy./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif Also, you can put wall boxes in for future use and cover them over with drywall or wallpaper. As long as you measure them out and map them, you can then go back and open them up when needed. I have several that I folded wallpaper over blank covers to match the pattern and you can hardly notice them.

Also, go with the radiant heat tubing in the garage floor. I used to work at an airport in a hangar that had it. You could pull your car in and within several hours all of the snow was melted off. Take a squeegee to the puddle and it is dry in 5 minutes.

Great looking home. Good luck and keep us posted.

<font color=green> MossRoad </font color=green>
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<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by mossroad on 12/07/01 06:16 PM (server time).</FONT></P>
 
   / House #12  
Moss,

Great idea about the conduit for the wires! I did some of that in the house we just built but did not allow for anything up high on the walls (ie - speakers). Also did not tie the boxes in each room together. Each communications box has a run back to the mechanical room in the basement. Dont' have as many as I would now like, only 2 to 3 per room. Oh well, live and learn. Wish I had seen your idea sooner about tying the boxes together in the room, that's great for audio and phone wiring.

Also wish I had run conduit for the doorbell wires, the wires have too much resisitance for the doorbell (which is powered by battery) and we only end up with half of the chime. Now I have to switch to a different type of doorbell that does not send the current through the wire for the actuator on the chime (old style physical strike of bells) but only sends a small signal for an electronic chime that will have AC power applied.

Rob, one other thought, get higher walls for the basement. The cost difference between an 8' wall and 10' wall for our house was $1800. This was for a 2500 sq ft basement. After we finish the basement and cover the mechanical on the ceilings the lowest spot will be 9'. Makes for a much more useable space for minimal $.

DaveV
 
   / House #13  
Yep, the deeper basement realy makes a difference if you decide to finish it off, and it costs about the same to put up forms for 10' foundation as it does for 8' foundation, so all you are really paying for is the concrete and deeper hole.

In-wall speaker boxes can also be hidden and used later. Just be sure to run a conduit down to the boxes at knee level. Also, you have to plug any conduit that goes between floors or house to garage, with insulation or other fire stop materials. Fire likes the chimney affect of upright conduit.

In my current house I have a couple conduits that run up from the basement to the attic. One is for electrical, one is for future use.

If I keep planning my house, I'll never build it, so I'll have to jump in sometime. And no matter how much I plan, I'll either miss something or something better will come along after I start. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

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   / House #14  
It would seem that a relay could be rigged up so that you wouldn't have to draw much current at the switch. Are you in love with the doorbell? If you want to keep it, this might be an option.

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   / House #15  
No, I'm not at all in love with that doorbell (except for it price /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif). So maybe in the spring I will go ahead and replace it with something less prone to problems.

DaveV
 
   / House
  • Thread Starter
#16  
We are going deeper with the basement, 9 feet. I like the idea of tied together conduit in each room for future growth. Keep those suggestions coming /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

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   / House #17  
That looks like a house I seen at Biltmore Estates!!!!!!!
Wow /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
 
   / House #18  
Rob, some things to consider.

1. Since you are going to finish the 3rd floor later, get as much material up there now as you can afford. You don't have to install it now, just get it up there so you don't have to haul it through the house later on. My niece is finishing her 2nd floor now, and the workers are really making a mess hauling all the materials through her living room, and up the stairs.

2. Get the pipes that run from the a/c compressor to the condensor installed now. They will be almost impossible to install later on. Also, make sure you allow room for a seperate heating/cooling unit to sit in the new area (this is asuming you are not installing one large enough to condition that area now).

3. If the 3rd floor will eventually have a bathroom, or anything that uses water, get those pipes installed now. Installing them later on means tearing into the downstairs walls later, which just adds to the expense and mess. This is happening to my niece now. One wall that had to be torn into had wall paper on it, and the wallpaper is out of print, so the entire wall will have to be re-papered. Good thing only one wall had paper on it, otherwise the entire room would have to be re-papered.

4. Also, if there will be a bathroom on the 3rd floor, get the waste stack that runs through the bottom floors insulated to deaden the sound. Better builders will use cast iron running between the floors as it is not as noisy as plastic. The cast iron is usually converted to plastic somewhere in the crawl space or basement.

Also, make sure the vent for the waste is run so it will not be in the way of future rooms on the 3rd floor. In my niece's house, the original plumbers took the shortest route available which ended up being in the middle of one of the rooms on the 2nd floor. It is tough to re-route once the ceiling below is finished (and expensive).

5. If you can afford it, get the electrical boxes set, and wires run to them now. If you can't afford it, get large electrical conduit run to the electrical panel now. Again, trying to do this later on will mean more walls that have to be torn into on the lower floors. What a lot of people do is install a 2nd breaker box in the unfinished area, and run the wires from the main box to the unfinished box during construction, but not connected.

6. If you think you need 2 or 3 electrical conduits running from the 3rd floor to the basement, add a couple of extra. We never know what the future will bring, so having extra conduit already installed in the walls is good insurance.

7. Plan on a minimum of 10% overrun on costs. Most builders only allow a minimum allowance for plumbing and lighting fixtures, carpet, tile, etc. This is done to keep the price down. When it comes time for the wife to pick out toilets, tubs, carpet, tile, etc they usually will not be satisfied with the bargain basement stuff the builder has allowed for, and will want more expensive items installed. If your wife is like mine, once she is in the store and compares the 'builders standard' products to the other products, she will always exceed the budget.

8. Check your stairways to see if there is any way to take advantage of the unused space under them. Many stairs waste a lot of space, and it is very inexpensive to add a couple of cabinet doors to take advantage of this space for storage. It is much less expensive to frame for this now even if you cover it up with sheetrock, and come back later and add the doors.

9. Photograph each wall and ceiling in each room before the insulation goes up. This is very important for future reference. I took some scrap paper and labeled the measurements of each of the studs in large letters so the measurements would show up in the pictures. It is very important to know exactly where the extra conduit pipes are, as well as the plumbing pipes. If you have a digital camera you should be able to add text to the picture to show the measurements or dimesions.

10. Get extra blocking added over and beside the windows at the top for hanging window treatments. This will make it much easier in the future when the wife decides she wants something different that will require moving the current curtain/blind hangers.

11. Get extra blocking added to the studs in the rooms where you expect to hang pictures or mirrors. There is usually enough scrap lumber around so that this will not be very expensive, especially if you and the wife do it on the weekends. Tricky part is knowing how high to place them. I used some scrap pieces of 2x10 between the 2x4 studs on the interior walls. Also did this with scrap 2x8 where I thought we might want to install chair rail in the future.

12. If the budget allows, consider hiring a licensed home inspector or general contractor to inspect the work periodically. I'm a licensed general contractor and licensed home inspector in NC, and do a lot of this. One of my recent clients lived in NY and was having a house built in Apex, NC. I managed the construction for him, and each week sent him several emails with pictures of the progress being made, as well as gave him suggestions to consider.

13. In the family room or den, get extra electrical outlets added on the wall where the tv will be. I put extra outlets on this wall, as well as made them 4 outlets vs the standard 2. When you consider all the stuff we need to plug in for an entertainment center (tv, stereo, vcr, clock, cd player, etc) It is better to have extra and not need them than not have enough. Also, ensure these are on seperate circuits.

14. Which ever room you will be using for your PC, get extra electrical outlets installed there as well. By the time we plug in a PC, Printer, Monitor, Fax machine, scanner, etc it is very easy to use up all available outlets. Here again, make these dedicated circuits with double outlets vs dual outlets.

15. It is also a good idea to install extra outlets on the wall where the head of the bed will be. Here again, with electric blankets, telephones, lamps, clocks, etc it is very easy to use up all available outlets. Much cheaper to plan ahead than to come back later and try to do it.

16. If you ever plan to have a central vacuum system, install the piping during framing. The PVC for this is inexpensive and quite easy to do. Again, you and the wife could probably do this over a weekend at little to no expense. Don't forget to run wiring along with the pipes.

That's about it for now. If you have questions, feel free to contact me. Good luck on your house.

<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by rlk on 12/08/01 07:33 PM (server time).</FONT></P>
 
   / House #19  
Rob, an additional item:

17. Ensure the bedrooms and family room are wired for ceiling fans. Even if you do not plan to install fans now, it is better to have the wire installed during electrical rough-in than later.
 
   / House
  • Thread Starter
#20  
Excellent ideas RLK. We did a lot of that in our current house (to a degree anyway). I can't tell you how many times I've referred back to those pictures of the walls before sheetrock. That was by far the best little investment I made /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

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