How bad is shale?

[jake98]

I can get some tandem loads for free and I was thinking it'll be good to throw at the muddy spots and raise a section of my driveway up about a foot. Looks like the bigger pieces are about 2x2x8..

 

[RickB]

Shale makes very good base fill.

 

[jake98]

I can't picture it being gradeable with my little box-blade, but who knows? I have a spring that flows around my shop and keeps it muddy 10 months of the year, so I guess I'll dig out a couple feet and fill it. Maybe I'll finally have that 'drive around' I was planing on.. (instead of just a 'mow-around'..) Time to chase the bees out of the old JD and charge it up!

 

[TripleR]

Agreed, it makes a good fill base, but is a bear to move with a small tractor.

 

[jake98]

I'm worrying about what shows up, I looked at the piles where they're digging out my friend's site, and it looked like it was 90% small pieces, but if half the load turns out to be 2' chunks, I'd be better off passing on it. I'm gonna talk with the excavator tomorrow, see what he thinks is in the pile.

 

[tcreeley]

Put the shale down, then cover with a load of gravel.

 

[Don87]

I can get some tandem loads for free and I was thinking it'll be good to throw at the muddy spots and raise a section of my driveway up about a foot. Looks like the bigger pieces are about 2x2x8..

Pictures of the 'shale' you are talking about would help a lot, it's called different things in different areas of the country.

When you said 2' pieces.....it made me think of what we call 'slate' down here in southwest Pennsyltucky, and it will break up easily when running over it, or with a hoe or bucket.

The 'slate' we have here will be ok for a couple years on a driveway, but it continues to break into smaller and smaller pieces til it becomes like soil.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

First thing....I'm not normally a big fan of Wikipedia, but in this instance, they did have a fairly good piece on shale.

Shale - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

The shale we have in this immediate area is "rotted" to the point where it's reasonable easy to grade, makes decent fill, and isn't terribly hard on tires.

While I was with the general contractor I spent 40+ years working for, we would routinely use it as base under parking lots, along with a host of other uses. Depending on where it was quarried, sometimes it was like a pile of razor blades and VERY rough on rubber tires.

 

[Don87]

First thing....I'm not normally a big fan of Wikipedia, but in this instance, they did have a fairly good piece on shale.

Shale - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

The shale we have in this immediate area is "rotted" to the point where it's reasonable easy to grade, makes decent fill, and isn't terribly hard on tires.

While I was with the general contractor I spent 40+ years working for, we would routinely use it as base under parking lots, along with a host of other uses. Depending on where it was quarried, sometimes it was like a pile of razor blades and VERY rough on rubber tires.

Some of the 'shale' (some call it slate here) we have here is the same. Just depends on where ya get it.

 

[RickB]

Shale in this area 'responds' well to medium sized dozer traffic while grading, and will make a great driveway or roadway surface if one likes a somewhat rustic look. But grading and pounding it into submission with a small CUT isn't going to be easy.

 

[jake98]

I'm trenching about 14"x 20" around the edge where the spring flows. Took about an hour and a half, and I'm halfway around. It's amazing how this clay muck hardens up when it's dry.. I have some pipe so I guess I'll put it in, then bury it to around 20" thick. It'll still slope away from the shop.

 

[CurlyDave]

If I had a trench like you do already done, I would line it with filter fabric, put the perf pipe in, fill it with drain rock and fold the filter fabric back over the top of the drain rock.

The shale might be free, but unless you know what the size range really is it may cost you more than you think in the long run. Drain rock is cheap, has known properties and is easy to work.

 

[Don87]

I'm trenching about 14"x 20" around the edge where the spring flows. Took about an hour and a half, and I'm halfway around. It's amazing how this clay muck hardens up when it's dry.. I have some pipe so I guess I'll put it in, then bury it to around 20" thick. It'll still slope away from the shop.

That's the best way to deal with wet spots.

 

[Don87]

If I had a trench like you do already done, I would line it with filter fabric, put the perf pipe in, fill it with drain rock and fold the filter fabric back over the top of the drain rock.

The shale might be free, but unless you know what the size range really is it may cost you more than you think in the long run. Drain rock is cheap, has known properties and is easy to work.

Good info. If his shale is like what is in my area, it will hold water in a wet spot, instead of draining it.

 

[Don87]

Oh, geez..........my post count was 1313.........kinda superstitious.........so i'll add a nothing post.

Or I could change my address to "Mockingbird Lane".:laughing::laughing:

 

[jake98]

Dave, if it was an important location, I'd be with you 100%, but it's a no traffic spot where I just don't want my tires to sink in the mud. I might not even throw the pipe in. I don't know how to gauge the water flow, but I guessed it to be about 5 gal./min. when it's really springin.. It used to go thru the middle of my shop when I first built it, and the drought ended. I asked my plumber buddy what to do when it first happened, he said, "stock it." :laughing:

 

[Don87]

Dave, if it was an important location, I'd be with you 100%, but it's a no traffic spot where I just don't want my tires to sink in the mud. I might not even throw the pipe in. I don't know how to gauge the water flow, but I guessed it to be about 5 gal./min. when it's really springin.. It used to go thru the middle of my shop when I first built it, and the drought ended. I asked my plumber buddy what to do when it first happened, he said, "stock it." :laughing:

I know you asked Dave the question, but, once it's dried up........it will be a 'traffic spot', cause your gonna mow it.

Move the water out of your way while you have the trench dug...........it will save headaches later on.

If you don't want the pipe and fabric.........you could do something like a 'dry creekbed'.............only channels water during wet seasons..........that requires larger rock, but presents other problems when mowing on both sides.

 

[jake98]

It'll be 20" thick where the water flows Don, I think the water will stay below the surface, it's only 1/2" or so when it runs. I keep going back and forth on the pipe, I have it so I should probably put it in there. The drive that goes to the shop needs to be raised about a foot in one section (about 75') so I'll have to get some gravel and top it all off. Even free stuff ends up costing $..
Thanks for the replies to all.

 

[davygp38]

Where I come from, Shale is the greatest thing that was ever made. It is naturally crushed stone, it is punky, and crumbles like Grandmas pie crust. if you have it on your land you got money in the bank. 90% of the roads around here are shale base. I don't think it would be sold if it was not bank run. take all you can get. That tractor you got will spread it around.

 

[bindian]

When I hear "shale", I think "shell".:confused2:

Where we lived when I was little, Dad had a whiteish grey sea shell brought it to fill the driveway low spots. It kind of reminds me of oyster shells, but only about an inch x an inch and a half.

It really hurt when you walked on it barefooted.
hugs, Brandi