How big of a trailer do I need?

[MarkV]

Mdbarb,

I don't disagree with those who say bigger is better, but I think the trailer you are looking at will work fine. You are well within the weight limits of the trailer, it has brakes and I don't think the point loads are an issue. If the angle iron cross members are a worry take the trailer to a welder and have them beefed up. You can get a pair of jack stands at an auto parts store for unloading. I have trailered my B21 with the same size trailer that did not have brakes and it worked fine. If you were hauling every week, I'd say get the bigger trailer. For a few times a year and just a few miles I'd go for it. Maybe more important is what are you hauling the trailer with. Many SUV's and 1/2 ton pickups are maxed out at 5000 lbs.

MarkV

 

[bsauter]

I had a 16 foot 7000# gross trailer I used for my B2150, loader and bushhog for 5 years. I stepped up to a 20 foot HD 12,000 gross trailer last year and haul my L3010 and stuff with it. Both had dual axle brakes. There is no comparison in the feel and towing of the two. I am glad I finally went bigger. I feel much more comfortable now. The ride is much better and I don't have to watch the trailer flex and twist on rough roads. I tow with a F350 SuperDuty.

Will a lighter trailer do it? Sure! I did for the 5 years but the heavier ones do it better and safer. I agree with some others here, buy more than what you think you need.

Brad, Kubota L3010HST, loader, R4 tires
Pictures at http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=179207&a=9183978

 

[fishman]

I have a bit of experience with boat trailers and would recommend that you carry between 50-75% of the recommended max if you want to stay trouble-free. We have had a few problems (read "sheared spindles") in TX Parks and Wildlife with single 3500 lb axles under boat and trailer combinations that were under that weight by several hundred lbs. At my office, we replaced the 3500 with a 5000 lb axle and still lost an inner bearing this season. These trailers have been well maintained, it's just too much for them. Now, if you don't haul your tractor 5000+ miles a year at 65 mph, you might have different results. We are anxiously awaiting the arrival of our new boat with twin 3500 lb axles under it. Hope it's enough . . . /w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif

 

[mlmartin]

Other than the thrill of owning more heavy stuff, why get a trailer at all? If you are going a few miles a few times a year, why not just drive the tractor?

I'm likely to trade some backhoe work with my JD 870 for the use of a towable chipper. I'll have to drive the tractor about three miles (so it takes twenty minutes) to get to my bud's house and three miles home. I can't justify a trailer for that.

Just a thought.

Matthew

 

[RobS]

I was going to mention driving as I did it (three miles) for 8 months. It wasn't bad, and I'm sure I could have continued but there were instances where I couldn't take everything with me that I wanted out there (more than one implement). Other times I'd be out at the property and realize I needed something else, or a tool, part, drink, snack etc. Also, I didn't want to carry one of my boys on the tractor, so I couldn't be a dad/tractor operator at the same time. A friend drove his eight miles each way for five years. I finally talked the wife into a trailer and we've both been happy. I can take all the toys with me, including one or two kids (depending on what I'm going to to out there) and we use the trailer as a "deck" for lunch breaks. Even when we move, I'll be glad to own the trailer just for hauling that occasional odd size thing, or taking the tractor to the inlaws to give them a hand /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[mdbarb]

Summing up all of these replies, it is the same mixed message I'm getting around here. Some say no way, some say OK...!?!
I checked with the local rental yard and they send their B21's out on 16' 6000# trailers.
I dunno who to believe.
I guess I'll just keep renting one everytime I need it until I'm sure. Thats a big hassle but it keeps a few grand in MY pocket

 

[Anonymous Poster]

JAG, It even gets better... The manufacturer (local, small, but relatively high volume manufacturer) ran out of the 6 inch channel and substituted 7 inch in the tongue and front of the frame at no extra charge to not have a delay but didn't get the tires in so I may not get it until Monday.

Not many people complain that their trailer is too strong or too safe. In general, trailers are abused. Folks tend to use what they have whether or not it is really intended for that use, weight , whatever. Buying more strength isn't really extravagance or luxury it is just acknowledging real world practice. I hate to go down the road with any equipment having a pucker factor greater than 1.5 to 2 on a 10 point scale but thats just me. Note: I do not usually wear both a belt and suspenders.

Patrick

 

[cowboydoc]

mdbarb,
I'm not saying that that trailer won't work, it will. If that's all you want to spend then buy it. Just remember don't go fast with it, don't travel a long ways, and don't load anything else on it. I've got the 18' one like I said with two 3500 lb. axles. It's a good trailer I just don't like putting bearings in it and if I had it to do over I'd spend the extra money and get the 10k one. I'd do it now but I just hate trading. If I get a chance to sell mine I will and buy the bigger one.

 

[Jag]

Some people just have all the luck.... Mine left Thursday..

 

[TheTrailerGuy]

mdbarb,

I just bought an 18 foot utility trailer similar to Richard's. I didn't pay attention to the axle rating vs. GVW rating at the time. Mine is also 7000#axles and 5000# GVW of which 1600# is trailer weight. As it is now I don't haul that much weight and my tow vehicle can only pull 5000# anyway. Mine was $1525 and for another thousand or so you could get 10000#. I'd say get the bigger stronger trailer. You can always pull lighter loads on a heavier duty trailer but not vice versa.

A good rule of thumb is this. Axle rating total plus coupler load rating total are the safe Maximum weight you can haul on a trailer. So, let's say you have an 18' trailer (which actually usually weigh about 100lbs per foot of deck, unless they are just angle iron) with tandem 3,500lb axles on it and a coupler that will take 1,200lbs of load.

3,500 X 2 axles = 7,000 + 1,200lb coupler load gives you a maximum total load capacity of 8,200lbs. Now, WEIGH your empty trailer! There is usually a farmers coop nearby that will let you run across for nothing and get an accurate weight. But, for conversations sake, let's say the trailer weighs 1,800lbs. 8,200 - 1,800 gives you a max GCWR (Gross CARGO Weight Rating) of 6,400lbs.

You should knock off 10% for safety regardless, which would give you a working load of 5,760lbs gross safe cargo towing capacity. Keep in mind that this assumes you will be loading your tongue with 1,200lbs of load. If you're using a 1/2 ton truck or SUV, you probably won't get that brave. That is why my personal rule of thumb is this. 7,000lb rated trailers can safely haul 5,500lbs on top of the bed safely.

Thanks
TheTrailerGuy