Rake How can one person connect a landscape rake to a 3 point hitch ?

[ustmd]

I use 2 concrete cinder blocks for mine. Once it is on the blocks, it is no more difficult than any other 3 pt

 

[djradz]

I use 2 concrete cinder blocks for mine. Once it is on the blocks, it is no more difficult than any other 3 pt

Yep, me too. My rear blade is stored the same way and it's just as easy to hook up.

 

[studor]

I use an old "d" ring shovel handle pinned through the top link for support, then backup, hook up the lowers and the the top link. As luck would have it my rake does not fit my quick hitch and I have never modified it since it is fairly easy to hook up --JMHO

 

[radman1]

A 5 gallon bucket and a scrap 4x4 works as a stand for me. I think you'll be surprised how easy it is to move even at 300 pounds. All you really need is a smidgeon of movement to get it all aligned. Have fun.

Bingo! That is what I would do. I have a subsoiler that I need to connect that way. A landscape rake is fairly light in the front and will easily set on a bucket. Can use cement blocks but would probably require 2 and much heavier to move than a bucket.

 

[nickel plate]

What might be intimidating to you is that unlike most other attachments, the two lower 3-pt pins are set so high on the York rake. Measure your tractor's lower arm height in the full up position and then measure the York's lower pin height to check for attachment compatability and adjust if necessary. You don't want the tractor's lower arms to be in the full up position for leeway purposes when attaching. My 8' York rake has a built in 3/4" solid stowing rod at the neck so that should be all you need or perhaps a block of wood under the foot if you stow it in dirt. When I bought it used, the rod was handed to me in such a bent condition I had to heat it and beat it for the better part of an hour so do remember to retract it before starting out! The first photo shows a portion of the black 3/4" vertical stowing rod in the down position with the foot secured in a bored hole on the dolly.
I have most of my attachments on dollies and stored inside on a concrete floor. Being able to roll and position the attachment to the tractor is far easier than jumping on and off the tractor until the implement is finally attached.

 

[Jay4200]

Once you finally get your rake onto your tractor, go out and get a 4-wheel moving dolly. When you take the rake off, put the dolly under it first - then you can move the rake onto your tractor, instead of the other way around.

My rake has gauge wheels, so I can roll it around using them, but my blade and snowblower go onto dollys. I don't know how anybody can hook up an implement that is heavy like a snowblower w/o being able to roll it around - unless I just got plain lucky, it would take me hours to get the tractor in just the right position...

JayC

 

[ShenandoahJoe]

... unless I just got plain lucky, it would take me hours to get the tractor in just the right position...

Jay, I'm glad somebody finally came out and admitted that. The lady who sold me my bush hog could back her tractor up so precisely that the hookup was a one-hand job. I've failed at that for over a year. You have given me permission to think that she's exceptionally good; that I'm not a total klutz.

 

[JDGreenGrass]

No need to get it perfect but....getting it as close to perfect as you can sure does help.!!

 

[Lloyd_E]

At the end of the day invite your buddy over for a cold one and get him to help you.
Always schedule appropriately...

Works for me. Or there is always a lot of grunt work involved sometimes even for the simplest things!

 

[nickel plate]

I also need to bring up that my New Holland TC-40 has a factory optional extendable lower 3-pt arms which really helps to take the guesswork out of attaching an implement.