How do I Get Crankshaft Nut off Kubota?

[Suburban Plowboy]

I have to replace the front cover on my Kubota myself because the guy who said he would do it has disappeared. I got the radiator and other obstacles off. Now I have to remove the nut on the front end of the crank.

This appears to be a 45mm nut. My biggest impact socket is 23. My biggest crescent wrench is about 44.

How do I get this off? Are they insanely overtorqued like just about every other fastener on the Kubota?

I don't even know if I can immobilize the crank. This tractor has HST. Also, I'm not sure whether I could get the impact wrench in there if I managed to find a deep socket.

 

[Suburban Plowboy]

I think the fractional equivalent is 1-3/4".

 

[5030]

Try borrowing one from your local Kubota dealer, they will have it. You might have to put a deposit on it however. Not super tight. I believe the torque spec for mine (M9000) is 175 foot pounds., Your smaller engine is probably substantially less. Use an impact wrench no locking of the crank is necessary. In lieu of an impact wrench, use a breaker bar and slam it with a 5 pound drilling hammer. Gives the same 'impact'. I cannot remember but I believe it's a left hand thread but your Kubota dealer will know for sure. Don't use a 'Crescent' wrench on it (really an adjustable open end wrench, Crescent is a trade name), you'll round off the flats and then you will be royally screwed

 

[Suburban Plowboy]

Thanks for the reply. Would a dealer actually lend a tool? I would have expected them to work very hard to discourage people from paying their labor rates.

I say "crescent wrench" so people will know what I'm talking about. I'm sure Crescent has litigated this, just like Xerox did, but that battle was lost a long time ago.

It looks like the nut is actually 46mm or 1-13/16. It's a right-hand thread, unless I am seriously deceived.

I dug it up in the shop manual. It says 101 to 116 ft.lbs., and it also says overtightening will ruin the oil slinger, so I suppose Kubota must have taken its own spec seriously. If so, a 1/2"-drive socket would get it out. Assuming a 2.5"-deep socket exists.

I don't understand what the 2" splined shaft sticking out past the pulley is for. I feel like grinding it off and making a cap with a center-drilled hole so I can still use a puller on it. I guess there must be a reason why this is a bad idea.

 

[Eagle1]

You can take a "cheap" socket cut it weld pipe (or square tube) in to extend the socket.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

You can take a "cheap" socket cut it weld pipe (or square tube) in to extend the socket.

I find big sockets in pawn shops. I don't mind cutting them.

 

[Eagle1]

Sadly it would cost me more to drive to pawnshop than I could save. I do find the occasional deal with pawn shops selling on line.

 

[crashz]

OP - that splined shaft is meant to run a hydraulic pump or other direct drive piece. These engines are used for many different things. Cutting it off might make life easier now, but I wonder if it could cause a balance issue.

 

[Suburban Plowboy]

Thanks for the info. I don't think a few grams of steel in the wrong place will bother an engine that tops out at a couple thousand RPM. Not planning to cut it at the moment, though.

I could actually make myself a longer nut on the lathe. That would be helpful. Too bad Kubota didn't do that.

I ordered myself a socket, and it will supposedly be here tomorrow. Now I just have to make a 3/4"-drive socket work with a 1/2"-drive wrench and a breaker bar, not to mention a 3/8"-drive torque wrench. I think there is room in there for the adaptors.

 

[Thomas]

Some equipment trentals also rent tools out.