How Do I Modify Steel Hydraulic Lines? (Shorten) & Fittings

[CADplans]

My tractor has quick connects for a loader, I will never add a loader.
The lines are routed from the valve at the back of the tractor, to the position shown.
I would use the hydraulics at the back of the tractor.

The lines are rusted towards the front, but perfect further back.

So, can I cut the four steel lines, and add new fittings near the rear?
Do you braze, silver solder, use compression fittings,,, or something else?

Another question,,,
does John Deere use some specific quick connect, or is there a good generic one I should select?

 

[RNeumann]

I had JIC fittings on my power steering lines silver soldered. That is an option.

Typically the loader control valve uses universal type fittings. With that it may be easier to remove the steel lines from the control valve and have hoses made that meet your needs that will thread or fit into the control valve.

This is assuming you want rear remotes but use the loader valve to control them.....I'm assuming from your post that is what you want.

 

[aczlan]

Re: How Do I Modify Steel Hydraulic Lines? (Shorten) & Fittings

I would follow the lines back and see how they connect to the valve.
You might be able to just unbolt the other end and screw in an adapter.
John Deere probably used a generic quick connect fitting.
I can't tell scale, but it is probably a 1/2", 3/8" or 1/4" Pioneer 4000 series fitting.
If it is a 1/2" fitting, it probably will let you use any ISO 5675 male quick connect.

Aaron Z

 

[MtnViewRanch]

If you feel that you just have to re-use the steel lines, easiest thing is the swedge lock type fittings, but they are costly.

Are you going to re-bend the tubing? Don't you want the couplers to be pointing towards the implement, at the back of the tractor?

My suggestion would be to just use hoses and mount a bulkhead for the female couplers. JD doesn't use anything special for the couplers, but what you will find is that the ones that you have are not 1/2" and 1/2" is pretty much industry std for rear couplers. But nothing wrong with just using what you have as long as you are not borrowing or renting equipment that has 1/2" ends. Pretty much just using all of your own equipment. Oh, and nothing that is going to require a constant flow like a log splitter. Then you would need the 1/2" couplers for sure.

Good luck with the project, I'm sure you will appreciate having the couplers at the back of the tractor.

 

[CADplans]

This is assuming you want rear remotes but use the loader valve to control them.....I'm assuming from your post that is what you want.

Thanks for the quick replies!! :thumbsup:

Yes, I want to use the loader valve to control rear hydraulics,,,

The JD price for the replacement lines ends up being reasonable,, but,
I do not see a reason to bring the fittings to the front,, just to route the lines back, again.

I guess my next step is to remove the lines, and see what the local hydraulics shop offers,,
we have about 3 good shops,,, hopefully they will have fittings I can use,,,

 

[pmsmechanic]

One of the things I have learned in life is to never say never.

I would do one of two things. I would just run hoses and fittings of off your present setup to the back. That way if you ever change your mind the factory setup is still all there. You will probably lose some flow but if you can live with that then that's ok. This way would be the easiest.

The other way I would look at would be to install a "T" in each line and run hoses to the back off of the T fitting. As long as you only use one set of outlets (front or rear) at a time you won't have any issues. If you hook something up to the front and the rear at the same time the hydraulic cylinder with the least resistance is going to move first.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Thanks for the quick replies!! :thumbsup:

Yes, I want to use the loader valve to control rear hydraulics,,,

The JD price for the replacement lines ends up being reasonable,, but,
I do not see a reason to bring the fittings to the front,, just to route the lines back, again.

I guess my next step is to remove the lines, and see what the local hydraulics shop offers,,
we have about 3 good shops,,, hopefully they will have fittings I can use,,,

If you feel up to it and want to save at least half if not more $$$, do this whole thing yourself if you can. My experience and those that I have talked to (A lot) typically pay enormously high prices from local hydraulic shops. I know that my cheapest local hyd shop charges over 4 times (400%) for fittings than I do. That's not what I pay, what I charge. :shocked:

Once in awhile a local shop is reasonable, but they are far far apart and very few.

 

[Ehanson]

Not knowing if JD utilizes, pipe, JIC, or ORFS ends on the tubes, I would think any of the ends on the tubing would be silver soldered. Could you cut the tubes back to a sound piece of tubing, if the tubing is standard size OD, you could put a JIC Nut, then a JIC Tube Sleeve, then flare the end, install a JIC Plug and it would be capped and leak free. If any time you wanted to use the circuit, all you do is uncap,
add a Union fitting, join a hose or another length of tube utilizing the same "tube nut", "tube sleeve" for JIC.
Any local Hydraulic Shop will have or know of these items.
What would be real nice is if you could do it right on the tractor without removing the tubes.

 

[CADplans]

If you feel up to it and want to save at least half if not more $$$, do this whole thing yourself if you can. My experience and those that I have talked to (A lot) typically pay enormously high prices from local hydraulic shops. I know that my cheapest local hyd shop charges over 4 times (400%) for fittings than I do. That's not what I pay, what I charge. :shocked:

Once in awhile a local shop is reasonable, but they are far far apart and very few.

Yes, I know pricing. A local hydraulics supply closed, and GAVE me all their fittings.
I doubt I will have any that fit (No weld, braze, or compression,,, all threaded)

I have lots of o-ring, NPT,,, etc,,,

 

[Egon]

Compression fittings and the proper tubing. A bender is essential.