How do I use my rotary cutter?

[snmhanson]

I just bought a used Howse rotary cutter for my Kubota B7800 and it didn't come with the instructions. I hooked it up to my tractor and tried to give it a quick test. I am finding that in order to keep the front edges from dragging along the ground and tearing everything up, I need to keep my 3-point hitch up a bit. Doing that, however, causes an extremely uneven cut as whenever the ground is not perfectly level. Any change in the attitude of the tractor causes the cutter to rise off the ground significantly or to sink down to it and then the front of the cutter digs into the ground. I am a little confused.

So, when using the cutter, I assume that I keep my 3 pt. controller in the down position and the rear wheel is always supposed to be on the ground, right? Assuming that is the case, how do I keep the front edge of the cutter off the ground? Do I need to adjust my top link to rotate the front of the cutter up? Is there something I am missing here?

Thanks for and help or advice,

Matt

 

[JD15302155870]

Usually you would adjust the lift so that the mower is level then drop the front just a little. The top linkage should not actually be firm. Most mowers have a connection on top that gives back and forth. That will keep you from scalping the ground in some places and cutting grass a foot high in others. If your mower has a hard connection I have seen people use a chain for the top linkage rather than the bar. Regardless the top linkage shouldn't control the cutting. It should permit lifting the mower. Most all rotary cutters work the same. You could download a manual from the Bush Hog web site or the Landpride site and it will cover specifics about how to attach to tractor.

 

[swizzle stick]

Yer 3 pt. hitch controller should have an adjustable stop. Set that so when the three point is all the way down the front of the rotary cutter is about an inch or so lower than the back of the cutter (but still off the ground). You will have to play with the adjustment, but you do not want to be lowering your 3 pt. down ans low as it will go.

 

[TripleR]

As mentioned, there is a set up procedure for a rotary cutter. Land Pride has manuals for their cutters on their site which you can download and print off or just look at what you need. You have to adjust you 3-point height to the desired level, adjust your top link as mentioned to allow a certain amount of movement and also adjust your tail wheel. Adjust side to side height with the right height adjustment on your 3-point.

As mentioned, generally you will want the front a bit lower than the back "unless" as per a Bush Hog Manual, you want to mulch the stuff up a bit more.

 

[MMagis]

Don't waste time trying to get a perfect even cut with a rotary cutter. It's not going to happen if your land isn't pancake flat.

 

[Jerry/MT]

I just bought a used Howse rotary cutter for my Kubota B7800 and it didn't come with the instructions. I hooked it up to my tractor and tried to give it a quick test. I am finding that in order to keep the front edges from dragging along the ground and tearing everything up, I need to keep my 3-point hitch up a bit. Doing that, however, causes an extremely uneven cut as whenever the ground is not perfectly level. Any change in the attitude of the tractor causes the cutter to rise off the ground significantly or to sink down to it and then the front of the cutter digs into the ground. I am a little confused. When you want to stop mowing gradually reduce the engine rpm to idle then disconnect the pto.

So, when using the cutter, I assume that I keep my 3 pt. controller in the down position and the rear wheel is always supposed to be on the ground, right? Assuming that is the case, how do I keep the front edge of the cutter off the ground? Do I need to adjust my top link to rotate the front of the cutter up? Is there something I am missing here?

Thanks for and help or advice,

Matt

A rotary mower is not a finish mower so the cut won't look like a lawn mower. It's meant to do rough cutting.

Using position control on the three point hitch, set the mower up so that that you cut at the height you want, and the trail wheel is on the ground with the front end is 1/2" to 1" lower than the back and level from side to side. Engage the pto with the engine at idle. Accelerate to the rpm you will being mowing at gradually mow at a speed that is comfortable for you and keeps the mower from bouncing around and keep the engine speed at the or near the 540 pto speed mark on the tach.

You may see the mower jump and make a bit of noise as it starts up. This is normal. I have an indepenent pto on my tractor and it has a pto brake that stops the shaft realtively quickly so the cutter blades "fold" under the stump jumper. When the mower is started, the centrifugal force throws the bades into the cutting position making the mower jump from the torque reaction.

Whoever sold you a mower should provide the operators manual unless you bought it used from a private party. Contact the mower manuafacturer an obtain the manual because it has operating and maintenance info, safety infor, and a parts list etc. that you should have.

 

[Danner]

I ran a Howse 48" for a number of years. Adjusting the top-link in the 3-point is how I controlled the height at the front. The longer the top-link, the higher the front. Here's a picture:

 

[RoyJackson]

I ran a Howse 48" for a number of years. Adjusting the top-link in the 3-point is how I controlled the height at the front. The longer the top-link, the higher the front. Here's a picture:

I think you might want to re-read our post, Brother...

Rockshaft controls the draft (lower) links which lifts the cutter's front end. You should be setting the height the cutter's front end by your rockshaft lever stop.
Top link should be controling the "float" of the cutter and how much weight the tail wheel bears.
If you're doing what you wrote, it seems like you're putting a lot of stress on the top link bracket.
Or am I misreading your post...?

 

[foggy1111]

My rotary cutter gets used and abused over some pretty rough ground. Lots of small depressions, wood and stumps. I set-up my cutter like most above tell you....and set my rock-shaft stop so that the lead edge is a few inches above ground....and I keep my hand on the lever and ready to lift the cutter when going through heavy vegetation (sticks) and rough terrain.

Still....at times, the lead edge of my cutter digs into the ground which lifts the back end and the whole process can be quite annoying. As said....I keep one hand on the scv ready to lift the cutter.....and try to avoid snagging the lead edge. I need to redesign the taper of my cutters lead-edge and add some more material to allow it to float over obstacles (and the dirt) a bit better. Still....I get along O.K. and this project is not at the top of my to-do list.

OH.....and do you have some type of a "knee-action" to attach your top link to? My King Kutter has a bracket at the top link that allows the rear of the cutter to rise about a foot or so. This makes it easy for the tail wheel to do its job and still provide some flex. Kapish?

 

[RoyJackson]

Still....at times, the lead edge of my cutter digs into the ground which lifts the back end and the whole process can be quite annoying. As said....I keep one hand on the scv ready to lift the cutter.....and try to avoid snagging the lead edge. Kapish?

Same here...rutty fields are a pain!

Seems like front wheels on a cutter would be a worthwhile addition.