How do I use my rotary cutter?

[foggy1111]

Same here...rutty fields are a pain!

Seems like front wheels on a cutter would be a worthwhile addition.

Man....you said it Roy! I cant seem to watch for every snag and things can get out of hand occasionally. I have considered putting some extra-WIDE skid pads and a shallow tapered angle on the lead edge of my cutter. to help things along....and wheels have crossed my mind. :thumbsup:

The first time I cut new ground....things can get pretty interesting. Good thing the diesel is louder than my swearing. :laughing:

 

[Chilly807]

The guys are right in their setup advice.

You use the tail wheel height adjustment to set the height of the mower (8 inches from the ground, for example). Next you set the front of the mower slightly lower (maybe 7 inches above the ground) than the back, which reduces blade wear and the amount of power needed to run the mower. The front height is set by the height of the lower lift arms. Each time you lower the mower to cut, you're going to set the draft position control to the same spot.

The top link is used solely to lift the tail wheel. The more slack in it, the better the mower will follow the ground contour, but the less lift you will get when you raise the 3 point hitch. The top link connection to the mower should be flexible.

Land Pride has a good setup section in their manuals, and they're available online. Howse might be as well.

Sean

 

[retiredmgn]

Same here...rutty fields are a pain!

Seems like front wheels on a cutter would be a worthwhile addition.

No **** Roy! You a tool designer? For some perverse reason I've always prided myself in being able to produce a fairly even cut on uneven ground by 'riding' the 3PH lever.
*E*piph*a*ny,n.,pl.-nies. - The moment of revelation when you realize you've been a dumbass by driving your tractor while looking backwards instead of putting guide wheels on the rotary cutter so it will tend to itself.
*Websters (I swear)*

I sense a mod coming.

Nelson

 

[Lockport]

Yep, set the height of the rear wheel and lower your three point 'till it's about one inch lower and stop it there. Engage yer PTO at about mid rpm and then idle up to yer manuel's spesification of a five-fordy, get a cup of cofee and off yer go ter mow, but don't spill yer cofee cause it'll burn sumpin fierce!

 

[PapaPerk]

The guys are right in their setup advice.

You use the tail wheel height adjustment to set the height of the mower (8 inches from the ground, for example). Next you set the front of the mower slightly lower (maybe 7 inches above the ground) than the back, which reduces blade wear and the amount of power needed to run the mower. The front height is set by the height of the lower lift arms. Each time you lower the mower to cut, you're going to set the draft position control to the same spot.

The top link is used solely to lift the tail wheel. The more slack in it, the better the mower will follow the ground contour, but the less lift you will get when you raise the 3 point hitch. The top link connection to the mower should be flexible.


Sean

This explantion is spot on. Another item to insure smooth even cutting is leveling the mower from left to right. This can be done by adjusting one of your 3 point lift arms. With the tractor on a smooth flat service, make sure the gap between the ground and the mower is the same on both sides (Left and Right).

 

[bikerdib]

Seems like front wheels on a cutter would be a worthwhile addition.

Funny, I've been trying to come up with an idea on how to do just that. Something along the lines of the swivel wheels on a finish mower but heavier duty to handle the shredder.

If you come up with something, be sure to post it here on the forum.

 

[Gary Fowler]

I am thinking that in order to put wheels on the front, you would have to install some heavy frame bracing. The front edge of most mowers is not properly braced to support the weight of the mower since it is carried by the 3 PH arms all the bracing is around them and about the middle for the sides if any at all along the sides. My 7 foot mower weight more than 1500 pounds so it would take some heavy duty wheels and attachment points to support it and all the rough ground that it goes over.
When I hook mine up, I pull up on my carport slab so everything is level and check the side to side level and adjust the right side lift arm as needed. My Howse bush hog just has a slotted hole in the top for the third arm so I adjust it so that it lifts the bushhog just high enough so that I can get it about midway between max length and minimum length. This gives me maximum flexibility for the tail wheel to move down and up without binding. My 7 foot home built bush hog pattern mower has a floating knuckle joint that allows much more motion for float as seen in the attached photo

 

[djradz]

Funny, I've been trying to come up with an idea on how to do just that. Something along the lines of the swivel wheels on a finish mower but heavier duty to handle the shredder.

If you come up with something, be sure to post it here on the forum.

Use "check chains" instead. You'll get a much smoother ride for the deck and be much less apt to dig the front in or scalp. Kind of like having front wheels that are HUGE. See attached photo with a setup on a RFM, but rotary cutter is the same. No need to ever look back again or bother to control the height with the 3-pt lever.

 

[ovrszd]

I cut uneven timber, opening paths to 4x4 Jeep trails. I cross a lot of ditches.

A trick I learned is to fasten the tractor end of the top link in the lowest hole. This puts the top link at a downward angle toward the tractor. Allows me to run considerable slack in the adjustment of the top link which lets the cutter tail wheel stay on the ground when going over a hump but still be able to pick up the cutter tail wheel high off the ground when the 3pt is lifted.

 

[RoyJackson]

Use "check chains" instead. You'll get a much smoother ride for the deck and be much less apt to dig the front in or scalp. Kind of like having front wheels that are HUGE. See attached photo with a setup on a RFM, but rotary cutter is the same. No need to ever look back again or bother to control the height with the 3-pt lever.

That would work if the ground is fairly smooth.
Wouldn't work on rutty fields or areas with abrupt rises and depressions.