How do you heat your barn/shop?

[cp1969]

Don't the unvented heaters such as salamanders, etc. put a lot of moisture in the building?

I bought a used wood furnace but haven't hooked it up yet. The price of vent pipe is more than the furnace.

One good thing about wood around here is there are always enough trees and brush being pushed into piles that you would never have to fell a tree to have firewood.

 

[toy1]

latest on waste oil heater, it has been on since beginning of Nov. it is set at 52 deg. most of the time if I will be working on equipment I will put it up to 65 degrees first thing in the am, it only take 1/2 hour to get it up to temp. I have use 110 gallons since the start.I will be starting to change oils on all my equipment starting first week in jan which based on usage it will get me thru to summer. The unit has worked flawlessly so far I check the flame each chance I get and have not made any changes to the initial setting, The combustion chamber has a little residue on the bottom of the chamber otherwise it looks good, I get little or no smoke when the unit fires up very clean burning. I had some doubts in the beginning if I made the right move now I have none and I would recommend if you have used oil to get rid of. The unit is made by Clean Burn.

 

[LBrown59]

I'm using a Glo Warm 30,000 btu thermostat controlled vent free wall heater in my 12x22 space.

In my 8x16 storage building I have a Glo Warm 10,000 btu thermostat controlled vent free wall heater.

The plan for the 30 x 52 garage is for a Separate Furnace and a Separate Air Conditioner enclosed in one metal cabinet and installed out side the garage.

I'm considering a ceiling unit of some sort for the 28 x 22 area in the pole building.

If I didn't have Natural Gas I'd use diesel fuel for my shop garage pole building and tractors.

 

[LBrown59]

My shop is 32x48x12 wood framed and reasonably well insulated. I have 110,000 BTU hot air oil fired furnace. I keep it heated all winter. I keep the thermostat set at 50 degrees. If I want to work in a t-shirt I turn it up. I use about one full 275 gallon tank of oil per year. It has worked great for me the last 20 years.

RPK

Do U use this in your tractor also?

 

[LBrown59]

1*I have a 120,000 btu salamander heater that would work but I don't like the noise or smell.
2*What do you know about a LP Ceiling Heater?
3*This year I'm putting in a heater from an old mobile home that I tore down, I think it 80 to 90,000 btu.
4*Still going to run kerosene through it

1*I don't like the noise, no thermostat and no shut off valves between the heater and the tank.
2*Only that LP is the most expensive fuel that you can heat with.
Have you considered Diesel fuel alias Fuel oil or home heating oil?
3* Should work.
4* Why not home heating fuel oil or Diesel fuel instead?
Much cheaper than kerosene is here.

== L B ==

 

[rexcramer]

If you haven't poured the floor yet this is the only way to heat an outbuilding IMO. My building is a 32x48x12 and I have it at a comfortable 68 degrees...

 

[jjmarotz]

latest on waste oil heater, it has been on since beginning of Nov. it is set at 52 deg. most of the time if I will be working on equipment I will put it up to 65 degrees first thing in the am, it only take 1/2 hour to get it up to temp. I have use 110 gallons since the start.I will be starting to change oils on all my equipment starting first week in jan which based on usage it will get me thru to summer. The unit has worked flawlessly so far I check the flame each chance I get and have not made any changes to the initial setting, The combustion chamber has a little residue on the bottom of the chamber otherwise it looks good, I get little or no smoke when the unit fires up very clean burning. I had some doubts in the beginning if I made the right move now I have none and I would recommend if you have used oil to get rid of. The unit is made by Clean Burn.

I also have the clean burn waste oil heater and love it. I use approx. 5-600 gallons per year and around here oil is easy to find. Go talk to any local farmer and most likely they have tons of it to get rid of. I got 550 gallons this year for free, (just had to go get it with 55 gal drums) then pump it into my 250 gal holding tank, extra barrels stored in the back of shop. I also have a propane forced air heater,(upper center of pic one) as an addition, but only use that when it is super cold out or just need to take the chill off a little faster. I will get more pics and info of the clean burn if needed. Enjoy the cold boys.

 

[akpilot]

I started a new shop last summer 40x48x16 w/attic trusses (for small appt. in the future) I used the in-floor heat like "excramer" (and probably many others) I use a Natural gas Hydronic heater that works awesome!! I'm going to install a small wood stove also to burn scrap, oil and garbage that is continually generated in the shop. I keep my heater set at 55 in the shop. It seems to be a very efficient system. Living in Alaska insulation and heaters are very important parts of a shop.

 

[kenmac]

I use a 100,000 but amana 80% nat. gas forced air furnace vented out the roof installed on it's side in the rafters with 20'' round pipe as duct work also installed in the rafters

 

[wedge40]

If you haven't poured the floor yet this is the only way to heat an outbuilding IMO. My building is a 32x48x12 and I have it at a comfortable 68 degrees...

I want to get started on pole barn this spring and I'd be interested in the extra cost to put the pex in when pouring the concrete. I might not have something to heat the fluid the first year, but from my understanding this is the best way to go, especially if you think you might have something flammable like painting in the winter.
If I spend 3 or 4 k for the just the floor and then another 1k for the pex, I'll put the pex in at the same time.
Oh yea, this probably wont be a DIY, but hired out.

Wedge