How do you wire the bx2670 for extra led lights.. need help pls?

[Mike from MI]

Sorry for the late post relative to the discussion but there is one important aspect I would like to add to my note on using the Kubota work light wires which are located just above the rear PTO. I previously pointed out how to identify these wires and where they originate in the wiring diagram. From what I can see those three wires which are capped correspond to the description for the working light wires shown in my BX25D manual. The top wire in the photo appears to be black which is the ground wire (14B). The middle wire appears to be red and black (14RB) which runs directly off the battery through a 20 amp fuse. The lower wire could be red and blue (20RL) which is energized with the main switch ON with a 10 amp fuse. I think you can assume that these wires were for the optional work lights and can be used for an LED project as others have stated. It should seem odd to the reader that Kubota would install two different power sources for this application. One is a heavy wire #14 running through a large fuse 20A directly from the battery. The other is a light wire #20 through a small fuse 10 A. with power when the ignition is ON. Still wondering? It's pretty obvious actually to someone who is experienced in electronics (not me). The light line is to run a relay which trips the larger capacity #14 wire. In the manual there are about five different wiring diagrams but only one shows the relay diagram. To explain in simpler terms, you wire from the #20 source through a switch and then to the relay. The relay is an electronic device containing a light duty solenoid. When the current from the switch activates the solenoid, a larger duty (handling more current) connection is made which will allow current to flow from the #14 wire to the LED lights. (You have wired the #14 into the relay.) (From the lights you complete the circuit by wiring from the lights to the ground wire.) The Kubota work lights are shown as drawing 37 watts X 2 = 74 watts. The limiting factor in the circuit is the #14 wire. I wouldn't go over 100 watts with the LED's. On another thread, there is a discussion on using a relay in the starting circuit. Members of the board have found that when a tractor is growing old, the various components in the starting circuit develop resistance from corrosion and dirt. This causes a voltage drop over each of those components with the result that the voltage available at the starter solenoid is often too low and the tractor won't start on the first attempt. In all likelihood, the moisture and corrosion has to burned away before the voltage at the starter is high enough to engage the starter solenoid. One of the members on this board identified the problem and installed a new relay just before the starter. The existing starter circuit was used to make the relay operate which then connected a new line with full 12 volts to start the engine on the first attempt every time. I believe that Kubota wants to keep the tractors as simple as possible to cut costs and also reduce the source of any problems in the field. It is obvious also that they sell more ignition and safety switches to get the circuit up to a voltage level that will start the engine. My point here is that the exact same relay could be used for the LED lights. It was a John Deere part but one could go into NAPA and get an equivalent relay. Relays are very very common and still used today in vehicle lighting. I once repaired the day time lights on my Honda van and found the relay connections on the circuit board faulty. A simple touch with the iron was all it took to repair the lights. The problem with relays is that they are a device with physical movement of the solenoid which can lead to failure. Enough. Hope this helps.

My first thought after I read this is all your going to do confuse the the op. He was on the right track and you drop this on him.

 

[dragoneggs]

My first thought after I read this is all your going to do confuse the the op. He was on the right track and you drop this on him.

Yeah adding a relay and hardwiring into the ignition is a bit.. I should say a lot more complicated than just tapping into your existing wiring. This is what I did because I wanted some flexibility and the ability to add to the electrical system. If all you want is a simple 'on' with existing lights then keep your wiring simple and plug into the existing loom. A voltmeter will help learn what is 'hot' and what is 'switched'.

 

[Kevinc2004]

The Kubota kit on my BX1860 tapped into the black & white wire that goes to each tail light, and you ran a wire up the rops to each of the lights. I just took mine off ( Trading for B2601 shortly) and I looked at what the Kabota instructions had me hook into! That made them come on with the other lights when you turned the headlight switch. I have had no trouble in the 4 years that they were installed.

 

[Weaselfoot]

Sure, use the 14 wire fused with a switch! I debated on whether I should start a new thread to explain Kubota' intentions in having in that wiring bundle, a 14 from the battery and at the same time a 20 wire from the switch in the ON position. The use of the relay would give the advantage of turning on the lights when the main switch is ON and also having the current run directly from the battery to power the lights. For gogo's purpose it would be easier to just fuse the 14 and put a switch in before the lights. Of course you have to realize that when the tractor is turned off, those lights will stay on until the new switch is turned off.

 

[gogojuice]

Thanks to all for their help and discussion points...

I'll try to make a post of what I have done in the future to sum this all up

In the meantime.....Michael Leggett posted this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PoRWEqg8mBw

"Factory provided auxiliary light wiring connections. The Black wire is ground, Red wire with black line is always Hot, Red wire with blue line is hot when key is on.
The connectors are wrapped with black tape against a wiring loom; located on the left side of the top link."

Thanks Mike for the work..

To me they appear the same ....12 volts. So.....
1). Does it really matter in terms of amps which I connect to?

Thanks

 

[GolfAddict]

Well, according to what Weaselfoot found in the manual,

- red/black-always-hot wire is a 20 amp line
- red/blue-hot-with-ignition-switch is a 10 amp line

So you should be fine using either with your lighting selection, at 99 watts. Using the 20 amp line you can turn the lights on and off with your toggle switches anytime. Using the 10 amp line you can turn your lights on with your switches, but they will only actually light up if the tractor key is also turned on.

 

[V1BuzzBomb]

I recently completed LED reverse light install on my 2011 BX2360. Thanks to forum members and site to enlighten me that there were taped back leads along rear harness by the top link bracket. Certainly, check function and circuitry with a test light or, better yet, multi-meter. I found but only two leads there and they were the ones I needed.

Black...ground
Red w/black stripe...switched hot