How do you wire the bx2670 for extra led lights.. need help pls?

[varmint]

Waterproof rubber caps are good! I wouldn't use wire nuts- crimp on insulated connectors, or better yet, heat shrink tube over soldered connections will prevent corrosion issues down the road. If you want fuse protection, check out eBay for in-line mini-fuses... a buck or two, delivered, and easy to install!

1pcs in Line Car Mini Blade Fuse Holder Waterproof 16AWG 30A 12V 24V 32V DC CN1G | eBay

 

[zoltanthegypsy]

Even better: heat shrink tubing with meltable adhesive inside. Completely seals things from water. I like the combo marine crimp splices that combine the crimp splice, the tubing, and the adhesive. Use them for everything around the boat, truck, and tractor(s).

My personal feeling about soldered connectors in high-vibration environments is that it can make stranded wire brittle where it leaves the soldered or crimped area. If there's shrink well beyond the soldered portion to snub the vibration it's probably fine (and done a zillion times with no problems...). YMMV.

Z.

 

[gogojuice]

I like the combo shrink wrap idea. Makes it really secure and polished.

Thanks for all the help. I think I have all I need... except the lights which are on order. I'll post pictures asap.

 

[Weaselfoot]

Sorry for the late post relative to the discussion but there is one important aspect I would like to add to my note on using the Kubota work light wires which are located just above the rear PTO. I previously pointed out how to identify these wires and where they originate in the wiring diagram.

From what I can see those three wires which are capped correspond to the description for the working light wires shown in my BX25D manual. The top wire in the photo appears to be black which is the ground wire (14B). The middle wire appears to be red and black (14RB) which runs directly off the battery through a 20 amp fuse. The lower wire could be red and blue (20RL) which is energized with the main switch ON with a 10 amp fuse. I think you can assume that these wires were for the optional work lights and can be used for an LED project as others have stated.

It should seem odd to the reader that Kubota would install two different power sources for this application. One is a heavy wire #14 running through a large fuse 20A directly from the battery. The other is a light wire #20 through a small fuse 10 A. with power when the ignition is ON. Still wondering?

It's pretty obvious actually to someone who is experienced in electronics (not me). The light line is to run a relay which trips the larger capacity #14 wire. In the manual there are about five different wiring diagrams but only one shows the relay diagram. To explain in simpler terms, you wire from the #20 source through a switch and then to the relay. The relay is an electronic device containing a light duty solenoid. When the current from the switch activates the solenoid, a larger duty (handling more current) connection is made which will allow current to flow from the #14 wire to the LED lights. (You have wired the #14 into the relay.) (From the lights you complete the circuit by wiring from the lights to the ground wire.) The Kubota work lights are shown as drawing 37 watts X 2 = 74 watts. The limiting factor in the circuit is the #14 wire. I wouldn't go over 100 watts with the LED's.

On another thread, there is a discussion on using a relay in the starting circuit. Members of the board have found that when a tractor is growing old, the various components in the starting circuit develop resistance from corrosion and dirt. This causes a voltage drop over each of those components with the result that the voltage available at the starter solenoid is often too low and the tractor won't start on the first attempt. In all likelihood, the moisture and corrosion has to burned away before the voltage at the starter is high enough to engage the starter solenoid. One of the members on this board identified the problem and installed a new relay just before the starter. The existing starter circuit was used to make the relay operate which then connected a new line with full 12 volts to start the engine on the first attempt every time. I believe that Kubota wants to keep the tractors as simple as possible to cut costs and also reduce the source of any problems in the field. It is obvious also that they sell more ignition and safety switches to get the circuit up to a voltage level that will start the engine. My point here is that the exact same relay could be used for the LED lights. It was a John Deere part but one could go into NAPA and get an equivalent relay. Relays are very very common and still used today in vehicle lighting. I once repaired the day time lights on my Honda van and found the relay connections on the circuit board faulty. A simple touch with the iron was all it took to repair the lights. The problem with relays is that they are a device with physical movement of the solenoid which can lead to failure. Enough. Hope this helps.

 

[gogojuice]

Weasel.

I would like to say thanks for the information.. but I think thanks for the time to type it. I have no idea what you are talking about.

Now I am confused if I should plug into the red/black wire.... or the red/blue wire.
I think we can agree the solid black is the ground.

So... which am I supposed to plug into?

 

[varmint]

Gogo, I think you still need to get a cheap voltmeter... that way, you can test the various wires you are trying to sort (not short) out and figure out which is which. Black = ground is a safe bet. Don't worry about relays and long term conductivity at this point.

 

[dragoneggs]

Gogo, I think you still need to get a cheap voltmeter... that way, you can test the various wires you are trying to sort (not short) out and figure out which is which. Black = ground is a safe bet. Don't worry about relays and long term conductivity at this point.

Agreed. A very handy tool that is great for troubleshooting as well. You will find other uses such as testing batteries, switches, etc.

 

[GolfAddict]

Weasel.

I would like to say thanks for the information.. but I think thanks for the time to type it. I have no idea what you are talking about.

Now I am confused if I should plug into the red/black wire.... or the red/blue wire.
I think we can agree the solid black is the ground.

So... which am I supposed to plug into?

I'm afraid it is over my head too. However, if I'm not completely misunderstanding, I think that if you are going to wire it up the way we've been discussing, you would use the heavier 14 wire. That is a line direct to your battery, and fuse protected. You'll control power to the lights with your switches.

The way I drew it up, you aren't wiring in any kind of relay or anything, and is just a simple switched circuit using that hot line to the battery. Is that correct Weaselfoot?

 

[varmint]

Maybe I missed something, but if he's just installing LED lights, 14 gage is overkill. Not that it hurts anything, but 16 should work fine for under 10 A.

 

[GolfAddict]

I meant that he would use the 14 gauge wire out of the back of the tractor. That is the circuit direct to the battery.