How happy are you?

[Unclewillie]

Still haven't picked up mine, but I did look at massey, mahindra, jd, new holland, and case... and I must say I was impressed with Kioti's numbers in comparison.. sometimes better by a mile. Most of their engines are made in south korea, so probably similar quality control. And then when I saw the sticker price, it was no cotest.

Been looking all over the net for negatives, and aside from one single guy on youtube cracking his backhoe frame on a ck3510 (probably abuse and/or bad luck), and few others pointing out minor cosmetic stuff like where the side markers are placed, or how one ripped off his antenna in the woods, one guy had a leaky quick connect, and so on, I am yet to find anything substantially negative that would make me not buy one.

Anyways, waiting on mine, currently at the dealer to be put together. Will let you know once I physically have it

You'll let us know about a week after you get it, be having too much fun to stop. You gonna enjoy that I am sure.

 

[TN8Man]

I like my Kioti a lot. It does everything I need.

 

[kantuckid]

Having a dealer next door isn't the only real criteria for buying a certain brand-for me anyway. Parts these days are easy and brought to your door via a click or a phone call. Brand neutral tractor service is often near you, dealer or not. If you rely on a dealer for routine maintenance you might be a great candidate for owning such a machine? or you'd be advised to own an equipment trailer and a tow vehicle too. I've owned two Kiotis over a number of years. They are well designed and mfg. with most parts easily gotten. Main items to keep running are generic such as filters.
Use features that matter to help you decide along with price point. The brands I'd avoid are those that have left the market or don't have a strong dealer network across the world. Kioti is an OK choice fore sure that doesn't break the bank. I like Mahindra but after talking to two dealers who had had serious warranty backup issues and unhappy customers I shied away from them, but not because they are not another value priced tractor choice. They all break somehow, sometime-thats why they have service shops.

 

[deberha2]

I am happy with my CK30 HST. It is a 2003 my Dad purchased around 2008. The previous owner only used it for mowing and the dealer installed a brand new loader on it with the Bobcat style quick attachment. The dealer we bought it from closed down a long time ago and the closest one (40 min) closed a few years ago. The closest now is about 1.5 hours which is a haul but I’ve only been there 3 times. Most parts and maintenance items you can order online. Michigan Iron and Equipment has an excellent online parts system. I’ve crossed all the filters over to Wix except one I think. I believe I’m around 1300 hours now. I bought a small horse/hay farm 6 years ago and it is the only tractor. I am not afraid to put any task to this tractor. I’ve used all of the following implements: loader bucket, front forks, front brush grapple, front 6 square bale grapple, front round bale spear, box blade, 6ft rear blade, rear disk, rear tiller, post hole auger up to 12” bit, rear fence post driver, backhoe. I’m in process of building a concrete rear ballast barrel for the rear. Overall the tractor is great. For modifications I have: turned up the front loader pressure “a bit” because it was always on the edge of being able to lift things and does much better now. I’ve added front LED off road lights (can be turned on with tractor key off) and one rear light that shines on your 3 point implement. I added the single rear remote hydraulic kit from kioti (used with fence post driver, backhoe, and hoses run to front for front grapple). Will add more info in a bit...

 

[Dave from GA & KY]

I live in what seams to be a geographic oddity, everyplace is an hour and half drive away. Nearest Kabota dealer an hour and half, John Deere dealer an hour 20. But there is a Kioti dealer 20 miles away!

So how do you like your Kioti, would you recommend one, what is good, what is bad?

I bought a Kioti CK35 with FEL brand new back in 2008. It's lived on my 300 acre farm and worked it's tail off since then. I've asked a lot of this little tractor and it's always come through.

Hour meter quit working a 12xx hours and that was quite a while ago, I'd estimate it at 2500-3000 hours.

Had to replace the valve for the loader joystick, Kioti had an updated "kit" that used metal in places that the original was nylon. Ticked me off I had to buy it for about $100, but has worked great since I put it on.

Other than that, changing fluids/filters and normal maintenance stuff, Pins & cotter keys I lost when working it hard, that's all I've done. This is a great little tractor and I'd recommend it unconditionally.

 

[CoyotKid]

I have a CK3510 HST I got in late 2018. Use if for mowing, driveway maintenance, moving downed trees. First time tractor owner. Looked at Kubota, Massy-Ferg., skipped John Deere because of price. What sold me was the operator's area. I am 6'5" (and shrinking) and it had the most room for knees, feet, etc.

 

[k0ua]

I am told my emax25 engine is made in South Korea 1180 hours no engine issues, only real problem with this tractor is the dog gone fuel cap area has a rubber cup around it and in a good rain will get water in the fuel, so I keep it covered with a tarp. Seems most tractors are going to give good service if we give them good servicing when needed. Kioti is I suspect a fine tractor but like you stated there is a lot of tractors coming out of S. Korea. Yeah some folks will run over hot coals and burn their tractor up and blame the tractor manufacturers. I ran over some high weeds and a stick broke my hst cooling fan but it was an easy fix just didn't care for the price on these tractor repairs, at least dealer prices. I can't think of any reason you shouldn't get the kioti.

Hi, on that little rubber/plastic cup around the fuel filler neck, mine has a hole and a drain tube going down towards the ground. Sure that yours isn't filled with debris and that is why rain water is collecting in it?

 

[deberha2]

I am happy with my CK30 HST. It is a 2003 my Dad purchased around 2008. The previous owner only used it for mowing and the dealer installed a brand new loader on it with the Bobcat style quick attachment. The dealer we bought it from closed down a long time ago and the closest one (40 min) closed a few years ago. The closest now is about 1.5 hours which is a haul but I’ve only been there 3 times. Most parts and maintenance items you can order online. Michigan Iron and Equipment has an excellent online parts system. I’ve crossed all the filters over to Wix except one I think. I believe I’m around 1300 hours now. I bought a small horse/hay farm 6 years ago and it is the only tractor. I am not afraid to put any task to this tractor. I’ve used all of the following implements: loader bucket, front forks, front brush grapple, front 6 square bale grapple, front round bale spear, box blade, 6ft rear blade, rear disk, rear tiller, post hole auger up to 12” bit, rear fence post driver, backhoe. I’m in process of building a concrete rear ballast barrel for the rear. Overall the tractor is great. For modifications I have: turned up the front loader pressure “a bit” because it was always on the edge of being able to lift things and does much better now. I’ve added front LED off road lights (can be turned on with tractor key off) and one rear light that shines on your 3 point implement. I added the single rear remote hydraulic kit from kioti (used with fence post driver, backhoe, and hoses run to front for front grapple). Will add more info in a bit...

As far as breakdowns or repairs:
Severe: A seal popped out while parked during a severe cold spell between the HST and rear axle which caused it do dump 10 gallons of oil on the ground and the tractor was unable to move. It required a split at the dealer to repair. They had to do it 2x because it leaked after the first try. It still drips maybe a few drops a week but I wasn’t going to make them do it again for that.
Medium: The starter relay stopped working intermittently. This was a real struggle because we didn’t know what was wrong and it wouldn’t stay broke long enough to test everything with the meter. Finally figured out the glow plug and starter relays were the same and swapped them out. Starter worked after that and I got a new relay. The pins that hold the pivot pins in place on the loader get knocked out and if you don’t catch it you lose the pivot pin as well. Have had this happen maybe 3x. I think newer ones have bolts that hold the pivot pins instead of clips. The throttle cable lever was welded crooked from the factory and it put the throttle cable at a bad angle in the dash. After the 2nd cable broke we tore it all apart and “fixed it right” no problems since. The loader joystick pivot balls have teflon on them and one wore out causing no control of the loader/floppy stick. I “made” a new ball by putting it in JB weld then “turning” it in the drill press to make a new round ball. Ordered 3 new replacements for the spare parts box but the JB weld has been working no issues for a year now. The seat has worn out 2x now. The seat suspension system broke and collapsed because it was welded upside down originally and water/rust collected in the parts. I rebuilt it with various steel parts all welded up and no issues. One front axle seal leaked when we bought it. I fixed it and no issues for years and now both sides started leaking but seems less now after a front axle oil change so maybe the oil was too thin.
Minor issues: Both sides of the 3 point adjustable stabilizers have broken where there was a stud welded in a U-shaped bracket. I ground the stud out and put a bolt through the hole - problem fixed. One of the ears welded to the ROPS for the same adjustable stabilizer bracket bent but hasn’t caused and problem. The PTO shaft cover needs tightened cause it falls down while you are hooking up the shaft. Something on the main hydraulic pump leaks a small amount but not enough to worry about. One engine cooling hose got a pinhole leak near the oil filter. I was able to have the guys at NAPA take it to the back and find one with a similar curve to cut out to replace it. The hazzard flashers have quit working only on the right side but I found you can turn on the hazards and the right turn signal and then you have all 4 flashing. The engine fuel stop solenoid has quit working after a struggling bout with the jump start box/dead battery. You have to pull the emergency fuel stop lever out to kill the engine now which is kinda handy because it won’t throw you over the steering wheel if you bump the key anymore. The rear brake lights stick ON quite a bit which causes the rear lenses to get soft and melt/warp due to bulb heat. I tried to cross the bulbs to some LEDs but don’t think I found the right ones. The headlight lens yellowed so bad the lights were dim - replaced with new headlight assembly. The “C” shaped links on the loader all 4 bent one time possibly due to a fence post collision. The loader frame is also twisted to the right due to ex destroying a different post with the bucket while mowing. The 6 square bale grapple is very heavy and has caused several O-rings to blow out at the loader hydraulic block. I got some better O rings and they are holding up.
Misc Annoyances etc: The ignition key is in a HORRIBLE spot. Driving over bumps causes you to bump your knee onto the key which immediately shuts the engine down and almost throws you over the steering wheel (location changed on newer models?). The rear three point lift/lower lever is too short which I fixed by adding a 6” piece of flat stock bolted to it and put the rubber handle back on. The high/medium/low gear changer will occasionally be hard to get into the gear you want requiring you to drive forward and back a bit sometimes to get it in. Luckily 2nd is a good all-around gear. 1st is only used if you really need to ram the loader in to get a full scoop of gravel or dirt. 3rd is highway only gear. There has been an intermittent bearing race noise possibly from the alternator for YEARS guess that is just how it sounds. The hydraulic oil fill tube is small and short. Luckily it is NPT pipe threads (everything else is metric???) so I got some pipe parts and made a longer/larger spout just to use for filling. Some of the grease fittings for the brake pedal are angled bad so you can’t grease them.
Good Stuff: Engine has plenty of power. It only bogs in deep grass mowing up a steep incline in 2nd gear or if you take too big of a bite with the loader while in 4x4 with good traction. The HST transmission seems bulletproof. The clutch works very nicely. The 3 point can lift a ****-ton of weight. The tractor is SOLID - I have a Case-New Holland 9 ft 59C backhoe that I made mounts for to use on the CK30. This backhoe is for a 40 horse minimum tractor. I’ve broken the backhoe 2x and the tractor 0 times with it. Tractor ground clearance and traction in 4x4 is good - never gotten it stuck even in deep mud. Pulling power in 1st is impressive - pulled a loaded freight liner box truck out of the mud effortlessly. Also pulled a loaded F250 with 24ft loaded hay trailer out of the mud. The HST and loader are quick easy and precise for any tight quarters loader work. Got a steering wheel spinner knob and it is awesome. Engine starts and runs great. Only overheats when doing hard work in high temps if your radiator screens are dirty.
Keep in mind this is all on an 18 year old tractor that is worked regularly. 100% happy with it. If I had a choice of a do-over I would go one or 2 sizes bigger 35 or 40 only for the higher front loader weight capacity. Whatever you do make sure you get an HST. Will post more if I think of anything else.

 

[deberha2]

As far as breakdowns or repairs:
Severe: A seal popped out while parked during a severe cold spell between the HST and rear axle which caused it do dump 10 gallons of oil on the ground and the tractor was unable to move. It required a split at the dealer to repair. They had to do it 2x because it leaked after the first try. It still drips maybe a few drops a week but I wasn’t going to make them do it again for that.
Medium: The starter relay stopped working intermittently. This was a real struggle because we didn’t know what was wrong and it wouldn’t stay broke long enough to test everything with the meter. Finally figured out the glow plug and starter relays were the same and swapped them out. Starter worked after that and I got a new relay. The pins that hold the pivot pins in place on the loader get knocked out and if you don’t catch it you lose the pivot pin as well. Have had this happen maybe 3x. I think newer ones have bolts that hold the pivot pins instead of clips. The throttle cable lever was welded crooked from the factory and it put the throttle cable at a bad angle in the dash. After the 2nd cable broke we tore it all apart and “fixed it right” no problems since. The loader joystick pivot balls have teflon on them and one wore out causing no control of the loader/floppy stick. I “made” a new ball by putting it in JB weld then “turning” it in the drill press to make a new round ball. Ordered 3 new replacements for the spare parts box but the JB weld has been working no issues for a year now. The seat has worn out 2x now. The seat suspension system broke and collapsed because it was welded upside down originally and water/rust collected in the parts. I rebuilt it with various steel parts all welded up and no issues. One front axle seal leaked when we bought it. I fixed it and no issues for years and now both sides started leaking but seems less now after a front axle oil change so maybe the oil was too thin.
Minor issues: Both sides of the 3 point adjustable stabilizers have broken where there was a stud welded in a U-shaped bracket. I ground the stud out and put a bolt through the hole - problem fixed. One of the ears welded to the ROPS for the same adjustable stabilizer bracket bent but hasn’t caused and problem. The PTO shaft cover needs tightened cause it falls down while you are hooking up the shaft. Something on the main hydraulic pump leaks a small amount but not enough to worry about. One engine cooling hose got a pinhole leak near the oil filter. I was able to have the guys at NAPA take it to the back and find one with a similar curve to cut out to replace it. The hazzard flashers have quit working only on the right side but I found you can turn on the hazards and the right turn signal and then you have all 4 flashing. The engine fuel stop solenoid has quit working after a struggling bout with the jump start box/dead battery. You have to pull the emergency fuel stop lever out to kill the engine now which is kinda handy because it won’t throw you over the steering wheel if you bump the key anymore. The rear brake lights stick ON quite a bit which causes the rear lenses to get soft and melt/warp due to bulb heat. I tried to cross the bulbs to some LEDs but don’t think I found the right ones. The headlight lens yellowed so bad the lights were dim - replaced with new headlight assembly. The “C” shaped links on the loader all 4 bent one time possibly due to a fence post collision. The loader frame is also twisted to the right due to ex destroying a different post with the bucket while mowing. The 6 square bale grapple is very heavy and has caused several O-rings to blow out at the loader hydraulic block. I got some better O rings and they are holding up.
Misc Annoyances etc: The ignition key is in a HORRIBLE spot. Driving over bumps causes you to bump your knee onto the key which immediately shuts the engine down and almost throws you over the steering wheel (location changed on newer models?). The rear three point lift/lower lever is too short which I fixed by adding a 6” piece of flat stock bolted to it and put the rubber handle back on. The high/medium/low gear changer will occasionally be hard to get into the gear you want requiring you to drive forward and back a bit sometimes to get it in. Luckily 2nd is a good all-around gear. 1st is only used if you really need to ram the loader in to get a full scoop of gravel or dirt. 3rd is highway only gear. There has been an intermittent bearing race noise possibly from the alternator for YEARS guess that is just how it sounds. The hydraulic oil fill tube is small and short. Luckily it is NPT pipe threads (everything else is metric???) so I got some pipe parts and made a longer/larger spout just to use for filling. Some of the grease fittings for the brake pedal are angled bad so you can’t grease them.
Good Stuff: Engine has plenty of power. It only bogs in deep grass mowing up a steep incline in 2nd gear or if you take too big of a bite with the loader while in 4x4 with good traction. The HST transmission seems bulletproof. The clutch works very nicely. The 3 point can lift a ****-ton of weight. The tractor is SOLID - I have a Case-New Holland 9 ft 59C backhoe that I made mounts for to use on the CK30. This backhoe is for a 40 horse minimum tractor. I’ve broken the backhoe 2x and the tractor 0 times with it. Tractor ground clearance and traction in 4x4 is good - never gotten it stuck even in deep mud. Pulling power in 1st is impressive - pulled a loaded freight liner box truck out of the mud effortlessly. Also pulled a loaded F250 with 24ft loaded hay trailer out of the mud. The HST and loader are quick easy and precise for any tight quarters loader work. Got a steering wheel spinner knob and it is awesome. Engine starts and runs great. Only overheats when doing hard work in high temps if your radiator screens are dirty.
Keep in mind this is all on an 18 year old tractor that is worked regularly. 100% happy with it. If I had a choice of a do-over I would go one or 2 sizes bigger 35 or 40 only for the higher front loader weight capacity. Whatever you do make sure you get an HST. Will post more if I think of anything else.

O-ya the little plastic toolbox behind the seat is worthless. We did find it is a good place to put your phone while using bluetooth headphones while mowing. A phone is about all that will fit in it.

 

[deberha2]

O-ya the little plastic toolbox behind the seat is worthless. We did find it is a good place to put your phone while using bluetooth headphones while mowing. A phone is about all that will fit in it.

Also the quick connect couplers for removing the loader are a bad design. They are nearly impossible to disconnect/connect and one of the plastic seals in them broke causing a little plastic piece to be in a hydraulic line which occasionally blocks the bucket curl function. If you go slow on the loader joystick you can get it it move and the bucket to work again.