How heavy is too heavy for a box blade?

[bubbas45]

I hate to start another box blade thread, but after reading a bunch of them several times, I'm still confused.

I plan to get a six-footer to match the tire width. Everybody says to go with a heavy BB. I haven't seen many posts that correlated weight with tractor size (a few in Bob Skurka's excellent photo comparison thread). The posts I have seen in other threads seem to advise on bigger tractors than what I have.

I have a Kubota Grand L3130, filled R4s, Cat 1 hook-up. I just can't figure out how heavy a box blade I should be looking for and how much is too much.

I want a BB that will (with any luck) be all I ever need without being overkill. We have about 72 acres, 13 of which have been mostly stumped; I need to do a good bit of clean up. The driveway is about 2700 ft, mostly up-hill. We hope to build a house one day, and we plan to start on a tractor barn this fall, so the box blade should see some site work use. I doubt that I'll ever move up to a bigger tractor, because I also have a big skid steer. The equipment budget is only so much.

Everything Attachments once recommended a United 672HD to me. It weighs only 445 lbs.

The other day, my local dealer recommended the Land Pride LR72 and quoted me $1100. The BB1572 weighs 504 lbs. Land Pride recommends a max HP rating of 25 (using the 2WD specs) for that blade.

On the other hand, the BB2572 max HP rating is 40. It appears to be sturdier, with 3/8" plate instead of 5/6", and plate instead of flat bar for the A frame. But it only weighs 549 pounds--not much heavier than the BB1572. The greater strength might make it better in general usage, and for adding weight compared to the 1572, but I don't think I want to fool with weights.

For another example, the Bush Hog SBX720 specs a maximum 4WD HP at 35, and weighs 550 lbs.The MBX720 specs 55 HP max and weighs 640 lbs.

I'm not really brand oriented. My local dealer carries only Land Pride. I'm perfectly willing to look farther afield, if something else is better, or better value for the money.

thanks, bws

 

[2458n]

I would be looking for a used box blade. They do not wear very much and if they do you flip over the cutting edge. The weight of the blade provides more down pressure for cutting action. It would seem to me that a skid steer with a tooth bucket would do the same work.

 

[JohninCT]

How heavy is too heavy for a box blade?

I don't know that there is such a thing. I think you are on the right track... heavier, more rugged construction is going to work better and harder with less risk of getting bent up.

 

[Verticaltrx]

I generally look for one that weighs more than 100lbs per foot. So for a 6' unit you should be over 600lb for one that will really work well. This also depends on how you want it to perform, the lighter ones will be fine for just pulling dirt along to fill low spots, but to really dig/excavate with a box blade you need plenty of weight. Just for comparison, a good commercial grade 6' box blade weighs over 1000lbs.

 

[teg]

Here's my take... Look for a used one... I would go at least 6" more on each side of the tractor, 84". Also, plan to add extra weight to make it work more, old crankshaft or another implement. As for how heavy duty you need depends on what you are going to use it for... If you are only spreading loose gravel out... you don't need much. If you are trying to rip roots or large boulders out, get something well made. What kind of soil are you working with?

Here's to Bob Skurka...:drink:

 

[jenkinsph]

With your Grand L 3130 I would limit the boxblade to a 6' model with a max weight of about 750 lbs. An advantage of a heavy boxblade or land plane/grader is you are able to hold a grade better without skipping across the top, it holds the blade in place to slice off a hard mound.

 

[DemcoEd]

I have never used a box blade until the last couple of years. I bought a used one for a $100 bucks thinking it would fun to have one. :laughing: To say I am shocked at what that thing will do is an understatement. I have built a pad for a new 40x88 shed, I have leveled the crown of a hill, I have leveled a 2 acre lot that is now planted to grass ect, etc. In my mind these things are an amazing tool. Funny thing about this is it's the cheapest tool I have for my NH boomer. I have a hyd cylinder on the top link of the 3pt and if i need to dig,,,,I retract the cylinder and let the scarfiers do their thing. Long story short, for the soils that I deal with (which has alot of 4-10" rock) the cheap light duty box blade I have, has worked extremely well. In my opinion, the heavy duty blades are more than I would need to spend money on. My opinion only. Good luck in your decision.

 

[Verticaltrx]

I have built a pad for a new 40x88 shed....

How much soil did you have to move for that and how long did it take?

 

[hizoot]

Just a quick inquiry....It sounds like that you are confusing/misreading manufacturers specification of minimum HP ratings and reading them as maximum ratings. I cant see a manufacturer rating a 6' blade to maximum 25 hp or a heavy duty blade to maximum 40 hp....You might want to double check those specs.......

 

[RDrancher]

If it helps...I run a Bush Hog MBX720 (now referred to as MBX72) behind my New Holland TC35D w/ water filled tires. At 640 lbs I find it too light for a lot of tasks.

Edited to add: I've had this box blade since 2004. I use it daily for work and it gets used hard. The only thing I've damaged are the replaceable ripper tips.

 

[the6shooter]

I agree with the others, Buy a used one, I am in need of one myself. I am one of those that always buy new, but not on this occation. a box blade will last for ever, new or used. just don't buy something abused. I have been searching the auction site here on the web, and have several to attend, till I get one. You should search in your area for the same thing. If you find one in good shape ( which you will ) all you have to do is clean it and paint it if you like. And the auction sites I am refering to are the live auctions, like a farm shutting dow or an estate auction or a construction auction, In fact you may even find something else you may need. hope this helps
All the best david

 

[Missouri Pioneer]

My tractor is 57 hp, 48 hp PTO. I started off looking for a cheap used box blade. After reading everything I could find on this site (heavier is better, heavier is better; it's a pain to get up and down from the tractor to change the scarifiers), I was leaning towards a 7' rollover blade, but couldn't find a used one around here (SW Missouri).

I finally found a NOS one in Arkansas, but they wanted $1500 for it. After more research (rollover blades have been supplanted by hydraulic blades) and an exhaustive search, I lucked into finding a NOS hydraulic commercial blade weighing 1100 pounds for about the same price. 'Haven't used it yet (another story), but it's a dandy and I think it will last me (and my son) a lifetime. My .02.

 

[bubbas45]

Howdy, folks, thanks for the advice so far.

I'd love to buy a good used one. The money I save over new can be well spent on another implement. I just haven't had any luck finding one on CL for NH, VT, or MA in several months of looking--though I'm sure I could have missed seeing a good deal. I haven't tried auctions; I guess I'll start looking. I reckon I can start calling all the dealers I can find in the area and asking, but I don't see much in the way of used implements.

@teg: "What kind of soil are you working with?"
Awful, granite-infested, root-laden NH soil. My intent is to do some digging with it, not just spread gravel.

@hizoot: WRT confusing the specs, I am often confused. However, I just checked the specs again online and this is what I see.
The Land Pride spec sheet for box scrapers http://www.landpride.com/ari/attach/lp/public/specs/303-082s.pdf says
BB1572, Maximum H.P. Rating = 25
BB2572, Maximum H.P. Rating = 40

The Bush Hog spec sheet http://www.bushhog.com/images/stories/documents/manuals/SBX48-84.pdf says for the 6-footer
Maximum HP (2WD) 50 PTO
Maximum HP (4WD) 35 PTO
Now, what PTO HP rather than net HP has to do with it, I don't know, I'm just reading the spec.

Have a look at those specs and see what you think.

thanks, bws

 

[hunterridgefarm]

bubbas45,

I have an L3130 with filled R1's. I have 2 boxblades, one with a hinged backblade and one fixed. The one I use the most is a KingKutter 6'. I don't know the weight but it works great. The 3130 will pull a full box of gravel or dirt with out much of a problem. The 500-600lb should be ok, if you go much heaver you may have a problem pulling a full box. I have never used R4's but know they do not get the same traction as R1's. As far as cutting the cutting blade and shanks will do that and you can always add weight if needed.

 

[Westendorf-RR]

Ever consider a box blade where YOU can adjust the weight of the unit... Weight is one consideration, but most want to make sure it covers span of tractor plus 6-12". Look for quality construction in area of blade, method of tongue attachment (all the way through to the back shell), reinforced sides, easy transport, adjustable tilt is really nice...

The only complaint I've ever heard from some that has used our box scraper is that the neighbor won't bring it back. I actually had a guy quote a unit for his neighbor at the fair so he'd get the hint.

 

[Verticaltrx]

Now, what PTO HP rather than net HP has to do with it, I don't know, I'm just reading the spec.

thanks, bws

PTO hp has long been the standard for measuring farm tractors. When someone says a "40hp tractor" I immediately think, 40 PTO hp utility tractor, as would most any farmer. Nowadays as compact tractors are getting so popular, they have started rating them based on net hp, which is really kind of meaningless when comparing tractors. They all have different power losses based on transmission type etc, so it is not standard like PTO hp, or draw bar hp. They are doing it as a marketing thing since people like to see the bigger numbers. A little off topic but anyways....


If you are looking at used, look for older Woods, Gannon and Gill brand box blades if you want a commercial duty unit. The old ones weren't built quite as heavy as the new commercial grade boxes, but still a lot better than any consumer grade box blades you find today.

 

[Bigfoot62]

I have a Gill roll-over box blade. They are great. Super heavy duty. It probably weighs about 800-900#. You can't hurt the things. I've even had it behind a 100 hp tractor. Looks funny, but it works. I tried to find them, and it seems that they are now the Woods R20 and R30. (6 & 7 foot) I could not find a good link with pics.

Looks a lot like this Bush-Hog Brand: Roll Over Box Blades RO-600

 

[Dargo]

I think you'll find the limiting factor will be the tractor if you go much more than a 6' and/or 600 pound box blade. I have an 87" 'no-name' I bought at an auction about 25 years ago. It probably weighs in around 1200 pounds or so. I use it behind a 100 hp 4X4 tractor and use it as a battering ram. So far I've snapped off 3 scarifiers hitting roots and rocks busting up some soil but haven't managed to bend up the box blade. However, when I get a heaping full, running over the blade full, load of heavy clay soil it's a pretty hard pull with a 100hp tractor with loaded R1's on it.

 

[DemcoEd]

How much soil did you have to move for that and how long did it take?

I may have imbelished a little bit when I said I build a pad for the shed. I had a 34x96 blow down in a wind storm and decided I wanted a wider building so went to 40 feet wide by 88 feet long. I don't remember how many yards of fill I moved but I would say 6 loads from a triple axle dump truck. I worked on it a couple of Saturday's for a few hours each time. Maybe 6-8 hours total(?) Sure was fun :thumbsup: