How heavy is TOO heavy?

[Soundguy]

I can't make out what kind of tranny it has but if it was any of the live ones.. it won't need the orc.

Soundguy

 

[jr9x23]

Howdy,

Its a 4 speed, and as wolc123 said, it did need an ORC. I found that out the first time I drove it with the brush hog on. Pucker factor was extremely high as I narrowly missed driving into a stack of siding at a slow but very persistent 2 mph. ORC is on and all is better. So far its been running well. The tractor was sold by a local school district, so my thought is that someone probably followed the maintenance schedule. I do have a little problem with keeping the cutter at same height. Its inconsistent: sometimes I can cut for 10-15 minutes before it is on the ground; next, I cut for a while, turn a corner or two and its dragging again. I am going to get chains to attach (it already has the upper pieces to receive the chains) from the tractor to the deck to isolate the hydraulics out. Any comments?

 

[greg_g]

Sounds to me like the school district maintenance supervisor didn't think it necessary to maintain the hydraulics in working condition. It's proper to fix hydraulics so you don't NEED chains. But in the absence of properly functioning hydraulics - chains are the field-expedient workaround.

I'd personally fix the leak-down problem rather than go with chains. I bought a tractor with a leak-down problem like that, the chains and brackets came with it. Ever since I fixed the leakdown, the chains and brackets have been gathering dust. I've got one set of tractor end brackets and three sets of implement end chains with Cat 2 lift pin brackets - if you're interested.

//greg//

 

[Soundguy]

You don't have it in draft mode do you?

Even if the lift piston leaks, the unloading valve should regenerate the system untill the leak = the flow o fthe hydro pump. In other words.. if the hydro pump is flowing more than the leak.. the lift should stay up, in position control. ( not so for draft control ).

Othe roption is that hytrol friction disc is worn and quadrant is slipping down.. etc.. But I think you would notice that.

Soundguy

Soundguy

 

[jr9x23]

"... But I think you would notice that."

I think that is assuming too much. All of this is new to me and I am still reading up about draft mode, draft control, the quadrant etc. I drove down to get the paper this morning (I knew there was a reason I bought a tractor!) with the mower up about 8 inches off the ground (back wheel on the ground) and it was in same position when I got back about 5 minutes later. Seems to me that would be an awfully slow leak. But I might be missing something obvious and so will read up about the things that you mention. Anyone with good explanations and the patience to type them out would be appreciated. I have not yet received the owner's manual.

 

[Soundguy]

If the cyl / piston / unloading valve / relief is letting the tractor hold the mower 8" in the air.. then you don't have a leak.. at least at that point.. the cyl may be damaged farther out.. so.. say.. you may not be able to hol dthe mower at 12" up due to a score in the cyl that lets the piston leak back down to 8", then hold.

'minutes' under load with no leakdown is at very least..'average' or slightly better... In other words.. i wouldn't be looking to re-ring or reseal a lift that could hold a decent load up for minutes while the hydro pump was off.. etc

My guess now is that your hytrol quadrant friction disc is slipping, and letting the hytrol handle creep down and thus letting oil exhaust, and dropping the mower.. and you keep reacing down and resetting it.. OR, you have the small lever flipped to 'draft' mode, and the draf sensing toplink is feeling the minor weight and load changes onthe toplink of the mower and is adjusting the draft.. I.E. pressure on the lift to try to accomodate what you have the hytroll handle set for in the form of a constant draft.. but what it turns out to be, on a non ground engaging implement.. is a mower that drags the ground or bobs inthe air.. and a hand constantly on the hytrol valve trying to keep the mower level. This usually causes 'stiff neck'.. from looking back at the mower height all the time..

This deffinatly is one of those cases where 'RTFM' is a good help, and not a 'jab'. Get familiar with your lift susyem.. and unless you are doing certain ground engaging chores.. make sure the system is in position control.

Soundguy

 

[wolc123]

It sure sounds to me like you are in draft mode which should only be used with a moldboard plow. The little lever on the right under the seat may be flipped down. Flip it up for position control which should be used for almost anything but a plow. Easy way to remember position: Draft = Down, both start with D. There is also one other possibility that I can think of if you were in position control. The inlet filter screen in the hydraulic sump area is prone to plug up over time without maintenance. This will cause intermittant hydraulic problems. This filter is very difficult to access and probably requires seperating the rear end to service. The good news is that you can bypass this filter simply by overfilling the housing with hydraulic oil. Fill it to the reccomended plug level then put the plug in and add an extra quart or so. Dont add more than necessary to restore proper operation as seal leakage/ brake problems may develope.

 

[jr9x23]

Yes, I am in draft control and I can't get out. The lever has a lot of play between it and the shaft its to turn. I pull up on it with heavy force but it really won't move the shaft. I have tried shifting from draft to position control w/ tractor off/tractor on/load/no load etc but cant get it to go more than 5-10 degrees from horizontal. Other fords I read about have position control at vertical. I have not received my manual yet, but I am assuming that I also need to get the lever vertical. Yes, Soundguy, I am doing all this w/o having RTFM, but its hard not to try to figure it out while waiting for the manual. Thanks again...

 

[Soundguy]

I don't have a 2000.. but do have a 2000 manual at home.. that's why i have not responded yet about your draft handle position..

If your handle is horizontal.. it may be already set for position.. if it is like the later thousand series units. ( of course.. with that much play.. there could be a problem under the lift cover as well.. even if it is set correctly.. )

Once i get home and glance over my 2000 manual.. I'll post back.

Soundguy

 

[wolc123]

Stuck in draft (down) sure does explain your problem. That lever should be almost straight up for position. My oldest Ford is an 8n which also has position and draft control but I have heard that it's predessesor (9n) had only draft control as did the earlier Ferguson tractors. You could do what the owners of these tractors did and chain the links to limit how far down they will go if you can't repair the position control. This would be only a minor inconvenience. Is that the 3 cyl diesel version 2000?

 

[jr9x23]

Yes, 3 cyl diesel. I went and got chain and am working on the pieces. That wil get me out in the field cutting, but I still want to fix the lever problem.