how many gallons per tire

[Anonymous Poster]

i have a 2410 with 31x15.50 15 terra tires, been searching and found one figure that says 17 gals per tire. does any one know for sure? any help would be appreciated

 

[gerard]

Can't say for sure but there are charts from tire services that will give you the answer or check with your local tractor store that fills tires. It's not that crucial as long as you don't fill more than 75% full. Have to leave some room for air to compress as a cushion. Many people only go 50% cause that keeps all the weight below the axel and below the C of G. You can always add with the tire jacked, then spin the tire until the valve stem is at your desired fill level. When fluid comes out your all set.

 

[JohnMiller3]

According to Goodyear Ag charts @ 75% fill:

31x15.50-15NHS - 20 gallons for 166 lbs. wt. gain per unit...

 

[Anonymous Poster]

thanks john and gerard. i am on my way to kmart to pick up the ww fluid. i checked at our local walmart for the fluid transfer pump that goes on a power drill but they said they no longer carry it. i think harbor freight does so i'll check there.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Home Depot and hardware stores around here have those drill pumps.

You might try a hardware store in your area or a home depot if you have one. These pumps are common and cheap at about $6 each.

Bill in Pgh, PA

 

[DDT]

I went to NAPA auto parts and they had one for $8.39

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Just and update on my project. filled the tires today, took 16 gallons per tire. but had to lower tire pressure to about 6lbs to get a good print. used a drill pump from NAPA. cost 5 bucks. so the hole project only cost 21$. abbed about 175lbs (i think) thanks for the advice from all

 

[Green_in_MI]

I have got to think that filling your tire to 75% is safer than filling it to 50%. I would be more concerned at 50% because you would have way too much room for water to slosh around inside the tire. There is no guarantee that the water will remain below the C of G. It is not so much the angle of your tractor that will cause rollovers it is an abrupt change in direction(acceleration). Water bouncing around inside your tire will cause moment of inertia changes to your tractor profile and probably move your center of gravity around as well. An easy scenario to picture is that you drop one rear tire in a hole and the other side begins sloshing around. At the same time you inadvertantly turn the wheel to the high side and you are gone because the momentum of the water in the high side wheel will likely send you spinning.

 

[Bird]

Green, I think you're being perfectly logical in your thinking of a liquid sloshing around in any container and the results you can get; however, I also think that the volume or space in a tractor tire is so small in relation to the total size and weight of the tractor, and the speed at which tractors travel, that your scenario just won't happen. In other words, I don't think there's any greater danger from a 50% filled tire than from a 75% filled tire. I filled the tires on my last tractor to the 75% level and think that it improved both traction and stability to some degree, but driving wide open, stopping quick, etc. would have never let the operator know whether there was liquid in the tires or not (there's just not enough space in there for you to notice any sloshing). A neighbor bought a much larger farm tractor used, and never knew it had liquid in the tires until he punctured one (it was filled with calcium which all leaked out). And while I certainly would not recommend it, he continued using that tractor with calcium in one rear tire and none in the other for a couple of years before the other tire got a puncture and lost its calcium. And I used that tractor a considerable amount myself and never "felt" any difference.

 

[ELMO67]

I have a different size tire on my L3010, but here is what I came up with. I estimated the gallons required based on a chart I printed from Tractorsmart.com. My rear tire size is a std. R4. 420/70-24. The qty. I thought would be correct was 60 gals., but it actually only took 48 gallons, that is with no weight on the rear tires, the stem at 12 o'clock, and fluid slightly dribbling out of the stem which told me it was full. The fluid I used was the wwsolvent from K-mart that was on sale for $.50 a gallon. Each gallon weighed 7 lbs., for a total added weight of 336 lbs. I used a tire fill adapter from my local NAPA dealer, it is supposed to let you bleed out the air while filling- it doesn't. What I ended up doing was to take a 4 ft. section of garden hose, a funnel that would just jam into the end of it, and a garden hose ball valve adapter fitted between the hose and the fill adapter. This let me shut off the flow of fluid into the tire, and bleed all the air out of the tire as needed (every 2-2 1/2 gallons). I taped the funnel to the side of the ROPS with electrical tape, the funnel sat into the recess on the ROPS . I also found out that it was quicker to remove the bleeder valve from the adapter ( it is held in and sealed with an o-ring, finger tight seals just fine). If I had to do it again, I would use the same adapter from NAPA and Y adapter with a hose for a vent ,up to the top, next to the fill funnel. This would allow for a much larger vent area, and with a clamp at the top, I wouldn't have to climb down off the ladder to close a valve and vent the system. Doing it the way I did, it took almost four hours to complete the job. After filling the tires and adding 20 lbs. of air, I took it for a test drive. It really made a big difference using the ft. end loader, the rear tires didn't spin at all going into a big pile of partially frozen gravel, and, more importantly , the rear tires don't come up off of the ground if I lower the bucket suddenly. I hope this info helps someone out, now I just have to put on my chains and I'm sure the snow will stay away this year!

 

[ewoss3]

Elmo, You may want to check your levels again. My L3010 with ag's on it took 58 gallons before they were at the valve stem level. I did notice some leakage earlier but it would stop after a few seconds. When you get the proper amount it should come out in a steady stream.

 

[ELMO67]

I thought it was strange that I could only add 48 gallons. When I did the first tire, I had a half gallon of fluid come back out (I drained the hose into an empty container to be sure, not counting what poured on the floor). When I did the second tire, after exactly 48 gallons, I disconnected the hose and a small stream of solvent trickeled out for approximately 1 minute. Could the tire size- 420/70-24 have anything to do with it? I know that in an automotive application, the "70" in a tire size is the aspect ratio on sidewall height to width, a "60" series would have a smaller o.d. than a "70" or "78" series. All the info I have seen on gallons required doesn't have any aspect ratio listed in the tire size charts,this would indicate to me that the tire sidewall is taller, giving a larger diameter tire, and require more fluid-any ideas?

 

[herbenus]

Here's how not to do it...

The attachment from tractor supply does not depress the valve plunger, as I thought it would. The drill pump could not build up any pressure. So I removed plunger from stem and went with the funnel idea. Of course this let all pressure out of tire. I had supported tractor so that tire was still on ground - deflating it dropped tractor 1/2 inch. This was enough to separate tire from rim, and I can't get air in. (Well, I can get it in but it comes right out.) I will try jacking up tractor this weekend and hope tire will seal back on rim.

But I am afraid I have a trip to the tire store coming up. And with a tire part filled with fluid. Any ideas are appreciated but I'm pretty much writing this off as a lesson of some sort.

 

[Bird]

To re-seat the bead, try jacking the tractor up enough to lift the tire clear of the floor. If the bead is only broken off on one side, there is a possibility that's all you'll have to do to air it up. However, if that doesn't do it, wrap something around the center of the tread that you can tighten. When you tighten a band of some type around the center of the tread that pulls it in toward the center and causes the bead to spread out and make contact. I've used a variety of "bands" to do that; everything from the inflatable ones that tire shops use to a come-a-long (winch pulley) to the ratcheting straps used to tie down loads on a trailer. Just remember to start loosening the band as the tire starts to take air. And it's really quite simple.

 

[JohnMiller3]

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.tractorbynet.com/forumfiles/47-216263-SeatingtheBeadBeforeCloseup%3D800.jpg>I was ready to take my wheel off this summer when I lost the bead... (from a slow nagging leak)...</A>

 

[JohnMiller3]

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.tractorbynet.com/forumfiles/47-216266-SeatingtheBeadofAg%27safter-800.jpg>But... this was my solution for seating the bead right on the tractor...</A>
/w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

 

[Bird]

Very good, John. I didn't have a picture to go with my explanation./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

 

[JohnMiller3]

<font color=blue>... I didn't have a picture to go with my explanation...</font color=blue>

C'mon Bird... don't tell me, you ran out of film for your digital camera now... /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

 

[herbenus]

Great idea. I have both the bands as shown and a chain and boomer. With flat profile of industrial tire it should be a cinch. (sorry). I wish I would of thought of this when I changed the tire on my old riding lawn mower. I must have put 4 hours work into it before taking it to a tire store. Thanks a bunch.
You saved me money, time, and a little embarassment, and people will think I'm so smart when they find out how I fixed it.

 

[RoyJackson]

The attachment from tractor supply does not depress the valve plunger, as I thought it would. The drill pump could not build up any pressure. So I removed plunger from stem and went with the funnel idea.

Jack the tractor up. Rotate the tire to the 10:30 or 11:00 position.
Deflate the tire by depressing the valve core.
Remove the valve core.
Thread the air/liquid adapter onto the vavle stem thread.
Screw the hose from your drill operated pump onto the air/liquid adapter.
Fill the tire to the desired percentage (at the 10:30 to 11:00 O'clock position, this should be 75 to 80 percent), depressing the air bleed button on the air/liquid adapter occasionally.
When the air/liquid adapapter bleeds out liquid only, you're done with it, the pump/drill and liquid.
Leave the tire at the 10:30-11:00 position.
Re-install the valve core.
Air the tire to the desired pressure.

Dejack the tractor (or, if you do as I did, the jack is under the drawbar housing with jack stands under the axle on both sides).

Repeat this process on the other side of the tractor.