How much rear ballast on L3130 with LA723 loader?

[Notforhire]

New, compact counterweight w/2 in sq reciever about 800 lbs (cost was less than $20 BTW) + Wheel weights 360 lbs (cost $378) + loaded tires 480 lbs. Total 1640 lbs.
Works for me, for what I do. Different tractors react differently. Obviously your mileage may vary.

 

[k0ua]

New, compact counterweight w/2 in sq reciever about 800 lbs (cost was less than $20 BTW) + Wheel weights 360 lbs (cost $378) + loaded tires 480 lbs. Total 1640 lbs.
Works for me, for what I do. Different tractors react differently. Obviously your mileage may vary.View attachment 289870

Please tell me more about how your counterweight is made and out of what. That looks very interesting.

James K0UA

 

[Notforhire]

k0ua, the 3pt attachment is off of a junked Bush Hog cutter, The 2 big chunks of iron on the bottom were given to me. I think they were part of a counterweight on a electric fork truck. Between the 3/8- 3X3 angle are two pcs. of 2 X 3.5 in. steel that I had lying around. I welded the reciever to them. The 5/8 rod was just overkill in case I need to lift a lot on the reciever. I thought about more bracing, but figured I'd see how it goes. When I get around to it, I'm going to add a basket to carry chains.
I liked some of the ideas expressed on the forum by you and others, who had attached tool holders or hitches on their counterweights. I felt that with this design I could easily weld on whatever I need in the future. If the addition was temporary I could attach it to a 2X2 sq. tube and slide it in the reciever. I guess it's a design in progress.:scratchchin:
You got any good ideas on improvements? I'd like to here them if you do.:listen:

Best, Bill

 

[PandDLong]

"Your ballast needs may vary"


It's very interesting to hear of the variety of experiences with ballast - there must be a lot of factors at play.

Recently, I was using my L3540 to do some excavating and dirt moving. I had a heavy skid-steer bucket (500+) and had no issues with moving full loads of dirt with just my snowblower for ballast (600# 'ish). Even when I overloaded the bucket in a gravel pile and couldn't lift it, my rear tires stayed firmly on the ground. I do benefit from living on the Canadian Prairie which is pretty flat so stability isn't the same concern for me that it would be for many others.

Interestingly, the week prior I moved a pallet with 300 pounds of cement with my forks, I had nothing on my 3PH and I definitely felt light on the rear tires - the ratio of FEL weight and ballast needs between those two scenarios is not 1:1 but there is a ratio one could figure out.


Tractor weight, it's axle weight ratio, FEL geometry, your terrain and probably a couple of other items end-up playing a role to determine how much ballast you need. Although, as others have said, it doesn't hurt to have too much ballast and keeps it safe.

Bottom-line is that some experimentation is needed to determine the right ballast for a particular tractor, user, terrain and usage combination or just play it safe and pile on lots of weight.

 

[LD1]

Recently, I was using my L3540 to do some excavating and dirt moving. I had a heavy skid-steer bucket (500+) and had no issues with moving full loads of dirt with just my snowblower for ballast (600# 'ish). Even when I overloaded the bucket in a gravel pile and couldn't lift it, my rear tires stayed firmly on the ground. I do benefit from living on the Canadian Prairie which is pretty flat so stability isn't the same concern for me that it would be for many others.

First, do you have loaded rear tires?

Second, anything in the form of a 3ph attachment makes better use of its weight than a ballast box. Simply because the weight is farther back. 600# that is centered 30" back in the form of a blower does WAY more good than 600# in a box that is in close.

 

[Notforhire]

First, do you have loaded rear tires?

Second, anything in the form of a 3ph attachment makes better use of its weight than a ballast box. Simply because the weight is farther back. 600# that is centered 30" back in the form of a blower does WAY more good than 600# in a box that is in close.

Sometimes the idea of using something that doesn't stick out too much is just that. If there isn't much swing room, having the weight closer to the machine and not protruding on the sides, may save damageing something like the house or barn. I agree that it is less effective as a counterweight when it's close. Judgement call; If the rear gets light, don't pick up as much, or add ballast.

Like the man said, "Your ballast needs may vary"

 

[k0ua]

k0ua, the 3pt attachment is off of a junked Bush Hog cutter, The 2 big chunks of iron on the bottom were given to me. I think they were part of a counterweight on a electric fork truck. Between the 3/8- 3X3 angle are two pcs. of 2 X 3.5 in. steel that I had lying around. I welded the reciever to them. The 5/8 rod was just overkill in case I need to lift a lot on the reciever. I thought about more bracing, but figured I'd see how it goes. When I get around to it, I'm going to add a basket to carry chains.
I liked some of the ideas expressed on the forum by you and others, who had attached tool holders or hitches on their counterweights. I felt that with this design I could easily weld on whatever I need in the future. If the addition was temporary I could attach it to a 2X2 sq. tube and slide it in the reciever. I guess it's a design in progress.:scratchchin:
You got any good ideas on improvements? I'd like to here them if you do.:listen:

Best, Bill

Well you already mentioned the chain basket, I would definitely do that, and maybe something to hold your chainsaw.. I make great use of the 2 inch PVC pipes I put in my barrel for handle tools. The first thing I noticed that I liked about your design was you weight is down low keeping the center of gravity of the tractor low.

James K0UA

 

[RaydaKub]

The first thing I noticed that I liked about your design was you weight is down low keeping the center of gravity of the tractor low.

Yeah, I liked that design also, several inches below the pins. Even if you lift the 3ph all the way up it might still be below the axle. Nicely done.

 

[PandDLong]

First, do you have loaded rear tires?

No, tires are unloaded and no wheel weights.

Second, anything in the form of a 3ph attachment makes better use of its weight than a ballast box. Simply because the weight is farther back. 600# that is centered 30" back in the form of a blower does WAY more good than 600# in a box that is in close.

Good point - distance from the 3PH pins makes a big difference in effectiveness of the ballast.

I haven't filled my ballast box yet and probably won't bother until spring. Then I'll put it through some tests to decide if that will be sufficient or if I need to add additional ballast weight or loaded tires or wheel weights or ... My goal is to have enough ballast to be safe and effective, but not lots of extra, unnecessary weight -an approach I should probably use with my personal weight .

Essentially, based on hearing the diversity of opinions and people's experience, running through the paces with my tractor, my attachments, on my property and pushing at the edge of how I would use the tractor should give me the answer on the best ballast configuration. I'm sure it will be interesting.

 

[Red Eye]

very nice design. keeps the mass down low.