How not to skid logs

[Maine_Polack]

Will try to oblige with photos on the 'morrow.

 

[Currmudgeon]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( <font color="red"> a come-along for a hoist </font>

The nice thing about this:
http://www.novajack.com/en/0103.htm
is that the log is only in the air when the tractor is pulling. If the log stars to over run on a downhill it will drop and stop. It also eliminates the need for another moving part. )</font>

I like that. It's better than my suggestion.

 

[John_Mc]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( ... Then you would need to reheat and quench to harden the bend (maybe).)</font>

That quench won't do you any good if it's low carbon (aka "mild") steel. You need high carbon steel (or some other alloys which you normally won't find in 1/4" plate without some real searching) in order for the heat and quench to do much of anything.

Also, if you do manage to get some high carbon steel, after the quench, you'll basically have untempered martensite structure, which is very brittle (i.e. it might shatter when you hit a rock, or break with only a slight bend). To avoid this, you'll need to reheat it after the quench, though not as hot as the first heating. The process would be: heat to bright orange color (almost yellow ... this would put you in the neighborhood of 1500+ degrees F), quench before the glow fades, then reheat ... I'd suggest up to the point where it just barely begins to glow (in a dim room, you can see a glow starting at roughly 1000 degrees F). Sorry, the colors are from memory... it's been a few years since I dealt with this on a regular basis. Another thing to watch out for: you'll generally end up with weak spots at the edges of the "heat affected zone". that is, where the portion you heated and quenched meets the portion that was not heated.

All-in-all, a good heat treatment is a bit more complex than is generally appreciated. You might be better off just bending mild steel to the shape you want, then weldng on ribs if it doesn't want to hold that shape.

John Mc
(with too many years in the steel wire industry)

 

[Maine_Polack]

Skid Plate skidder

 

[Maine_Polack]

Trail groomer

 

[slydog]

Thanks for the photos MP! Looks like it would be simple to fabricate one of those if I can find some way of rolling the steel.

 

[JimMorrissey]

I still don't see any attachments or descriptions of what happened. What am I missing here.

 

[MikeFromVA]

Jim,

He forgot to attach the pics in the first 3 posts - look at the 5th to 7th posts..

 

[JimMorrissey]

Thanks Mike.

 

[have_blue]

You can use "Tempil Sticks" to ensure the right draw temp. Most steels require 700-900F, else it may become too soft. Of course 900F produces a dull red in low light.