How Rought Is Too Rough?

[snmhanson]

I just got my first tractor, a B7800. So far it seems like a great machine and I can't wait to put it through it's paces. However, being a tractor novice I am concerned about how hard I can push it. Do I need to worry very much about over doing it or will the tractor just refuse to work if I try to push it too hard. For example, I was trying to scrape off several inches of rock filled soil today with the bucket and several times the tractor stopped moving either because I was trying to dig too deep or because I hit a large enough rock to stop it. Sometimes the wheels would spin and the tractor would "buck" a little bit and sometimes the wheels would just spin. I tried to minimize it from happening and stop as quickly as I could when it did occur but it nonetheless happened quite a few times. Is this bad for the tractor or just mainly inconvenient for me? Also, when I was moving some pretty heavy soil I would go in for a load and if I wasn't careful the tractor would bog down and stall. This happened twice. I was keeping the RPMs down around 1200-1400 and will in the near future for the break-in period so I'm sure it will be more capable in the future when I can operate it at it's rated RPMs. However, I will probably just push it that much harder at that point. I'm sure as I progress up the learning curve I will figure out what the tractor physically can and can't do and will also develop my skills but I want to make sure I don't damage it during that process. Thanks for any help and advice.

Matt

 

[GregJ]

Matt,
Congratulations on your purchase. I think you are experiencing exactly what most of us first time tractor owners experienced. They are fairly complex machines and take some time getting used to. One thing though, I believe you should run at a little higher rpms. My dealer told me to run mine at around 2000 rpms during the breakin process. I have also learned here that it is important to vary the rpms. I think you should probably avoid bogging your engine down and killing it during the breakin period. Keeping your rpms up should help that. The spinning tires and bouncing issue..... that won't be a problem after you have gotten used to your B7800 and the FEL joystick.

Have fun,
Greg

 

[_RaT_]

Do you have HST? Are you using the front loader to scrape or cut a few inches of soil?
With HST, you will find it will take a little practice to learn how to use it most effectively. With the loader trying to cut the soil, you will find it difficult to ever do it accurately/consistently since the cutting angle of the bucket will need to be so accurate it makes it tough. Boxscrapers do this job much easier. The problem with the loader is with all that leverage hanging out front and it being difficult to actually see the cutting edge bite, your more likely going to be to aggresive or not enough. If this is your only tool for now, practice learning the visual clues that show when the bucket is parallel to the surface. Use the lowest gear. Don't get to aggresive with the bucket otherwise you can make a mess. Trying to put the cut dirt back is tough with just the loader and get things level.

 

[ronjhall]

Matt

Congrats on the new tractor. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

<font color="blue">I am concerned about how hard I can push it. </font>

You can run the engine at 2000 rpm with no problems all day. Try to very the RPMs during the first 50 hours.

<font color="blue"> Sometimes the wheels would spin and the tractor would "buck" a little bit and sometimes the wheels would just spin. </font>

This will probably put more wear on yourself and the tires than the tractor it's self.

How much weight do you have on the 3PH?

Are you using 4WD while using the FEL?

<font color="blue"> Also, when I was moving some pretty heavy soil I would go in for a load and if I wasn't careful the tractor would bog down and stall. </font>

One of the first lessons to be learned with a HST is to let up on the HST pedal when the engine starts to bog. Pushing down on the pedal requires more power from the engine. Letting up will require less power.

If you need more power to the rear wheels shift the range selector to "L".

Here is a link to a thread on HST. Some of the links do not work. But the HST info is there.
Click Here

To level ground the most recommended attachment is a Box Blade or Tooth Bar. Your TBN Profile does not list what you have.

If you have a box blade here is a link.

Click Here

 

[riptides]

Well, I have really torn up some stuff with my B7800. I discovered it worked best at around 2000+RPM's, FWD and Low gear while using the FEL to remove mother nature.

Low gear is the key when ripping into stuff. like trails and top soil. Once your under something use the FEL to lift it out.... that is the finer part of this work, proper FEL positioning.

That should separate the beginner from the expert (FEL positioning), it is a learned experience.

Good Luck!
-Mike Z. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Egon]

Matt:

That's a nice tractor you have. Wish I could afford one but my little B7100 will have to do. 2200 hours on it.

On my tractor wheel spin is a common occurence. I like to keep the revs up so the hydraulics are faster. Use the differential lock a lot but when doing this the rear may slide over.

Main thing is to not run at something. Ease into it and use the hydro pedal as though it had an egg on it. Use the lowest gear range also. Using the loader take thin layers and use the curl for traction control by moving it back and forth in small incriments. Try and start a level approach and then keep working on extending the level area. This allows the tractor to sit even and makes the bucket controlling much easier. Try not to spin and make holes as these will make it tougher to maintain the level if you again drive in one.

As others have mentioned rear weight will help. Seat time is the most important factor and a gentle touch on the controls really helps.

Attached a picture of some dirt work done with a B7100. Shows an area where dirt was removed . The depth is indicated by the bank behind the tractor,

Egon

 

[Henro]

Matt,

One thing I would recommend you do is to park the tractor on a flat place, set the brake, put the loader and any 3ph implement you may have on the ground, and then lay on your back and slip under the tractor and take a look at what is down there, hanging out to be wacked off (or jammed up) by a stick or whatever.

I know when I got my tractor I did not realize that there were a lot of opportunities to jam sticks in linkages, unprotected hydraulic lines, and filters sticking out asking to be knocked off. Including the fuel filter!

Knowing what is under there is a good thing.

I had something go wrong with the front drive shaft cover on my B2910 shortly after I got it. I think it was not installed correctly, and the plastic cover somehow got caught by a U joint, an one end was pulled in. It was fixed under warrenty, and I told the dealer that I did not think I did it, but that I did not know for sure.

Point is, I might have, because at the beginning I did not realize how much under the tractor is so unprotected...knowing what is under there can help you know how rough of ground you may want to run the tractor on.

I actually made a little skid plate to cover the area below the front drive shaft, just in case. I've attached a photo... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif Bolts to the loader frame and comes off real easy for oil changes.

There is a chance I may make something to protect the rear portion of the tractor bottom as well...

Just a thought in case you have not taken a look under there yet. I did not think to at first... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

 

[snmhanson]

Thanks for the replies all. I will turn up the RPMs and vary them a bit more today when I get out there and see how big a difference it makes. Also, I hope either today or tommorow to get a box blade for it to make leveling and ripping easier. I don't have any weight on the 3PH but the back tires are loaded. I have a fork I could put on the back and put a big rock or something on it if it would help (and wouldn't just fall off). And I will crawl under the tractor and take a look today before I start it. Didn't even think to do that but you're right Henro, it probably is a very good idea. Thanks for all the input.

Matt

 

[MadDog]

Very nice enhancement, Henro. ...gonna take a look under mine this evening.

 

[TresCrows]

You are running the engine at to low an RPM. You probably need to go into low range gear also. Additionally, scraping a bit of topsoil or light digging is with in the capability of your tractor with the FEL, HOWEVER, an FEL main and designed for purpose is scooping--NOT digging. That is what backhoes are for. Also, for scrapping and ripping you will have better success with a boxblade. The Boxblade/FEL combo is an awesome team. The box scrapes and even digs and rips and the FEL scoops, moves and spreads and then the box finish spreads and levels. Go get yourself a box blade /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif. Also--just me--I would not ram my loader into rocks or roots--it really is not suited for that and you could bend the frame, bucket or FEL. One more thing--try not to bog your tractor engine down, when it does let up on it and give it more throttle or take a smaller bite---technique just has to be learned and it takes time /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif. J