How Stupid Is This Idea? (Related to Pallet Forks)

[Thomas]

If it works for you than :thumbsup:

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

Can you see the front tips of your carry all from the tractor's seat with the bucket flat on the ground? If not, it makes it hard to line up while picking up the pallets. One of the many reasons I don't care for the clamp on forks I have. It's almost impossible to see the fork tips when trying to line up "the shot".

 

[s219]

So, I got one. I'm pretty sure that's how this happened: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...rating/412555-how-avoid-bending-lift-arm.html Responders there said it could happen with compression.

In that other thread, you showed damaged stabilizer links. That kind of damage happens because they weren't adjusted properly such that one side goes into tension and handles the load, preventing the other side from compressing and bending. That damage can happen going forward or backwards. The stabilizers see action when the lift arms move sideways and all they do is resist that.

The classic damage from backing up would be to the lift arms themselves (or their mounts). Run a box blade backwards and run into a stump, for example. That won't damage the stabilizers, at least not until after something else breaks (unless it's due to the improper adjustment alluded to above). If it caused damage to the stabilizers (aside from above), you would first have done major damage to the lift arms or their mounts.

So I'd say go back to the other thread and re-read the comments carefully. I'd have no reservations using the carry-all on the 3-point hitch at all -- it will be more capable than strapping it into the bucket I think. As with any implement, make sure the stabilizers are adjusted so that they do what they are supposed to do. They are adjusted right when one side goes into tension and takes the load while the other side goes slack (but not jammed or compressed).

 

[Diggin It]

While I can't see all the routing of the straps, what I can see there might be a possible problem if the bucket was dumped a bit too much - to the point it causes the bottom of the carryall slid out out the front of the bucket making the straps/pins becoming a point of rotation.

Though if there was a need to dump the bucket that far, I'd think running some straps to hold down the lower arms of the carryall should solve that issue.

However, going to that extreme may not be needed if you're doing this over fairly gentle terrain, and can keep the bucket relatively level or curled back so the bottom of the carryall is always being pushed into the back/bottom of the bucket (in addition to the top/back of the carryall).

I don't plan on using straps at all. That was just for this test. I plan on using some kind of hard link, whether it's chain or some kind of load binder type adjustable bolt. Other than sliding into or away from a pallet, I can't see that I would ever have the bucket and tips curled out/forward.

Can you see the front tips of your carry all from the tractor's seat with the bucket flat on the ground?

Yes I can. Clearly enough to line up on the pallets with no problem.

So I'd say go back to the other thread and re-read the comments carefully. I'd have no reservations using the carry-all on the 3-point hitch at all -- it will be more capable than strapping it into the bucket I think.

The key thing I got from that thread was the need for a hydraulic top link to be able to adjust tilt for lining up under the pallets. I have almost no level ground. Everything is on a slant of some kind. 'Forks' level to the tractor won't help much to align with loaded pallets sitting on sloped ground. Seems that hydraulic top links and the necessary connections are quite pricey. Moving it to the front like this solves that problems. I can curl and adjust as necessary to pick up a tilted pallet. And I don't have to look behind me to do it.

 

[Zebrafive]

If you look at Commercial Backhoe tractors, the loader buckets have large hooks on top of the bucket, to hook forks on the bucket. Your idea will work.

 

[aczlan]

The key thing I got from that thread was the need for a hydraulic top link to be able to adjust tilt for lining up under the pallets. I have almost no level ground. Everything is on a slant of some kind. 'Forks' level to the tractor won't help much to align with loaded pallets sitting on sloped ground. Seems that hydraulic top links and the necessary connections are quite pricey. Moving it to the front like this solves that problems. I can curl and adjust as necessary to pick up a tilted pallet. And I don't have to look behind me to do it.

You are correct on the need for a hydraulic toplink with forks.
If you have rear remotes, you might check with Brian with FitRite Hydraulics (I think his username is MtnViewRanch) on a cylinder, or Surplus Center has the cylinders for $100-150ish and you could probably piece together a setup with hoses from them for under $200: Double Acting Hydraulic Cylinders | Hydraulic Cylinders | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

Aaron Z

 

[Captain Dirty]

If I do [have SSQA], I don't know it, but even so, why spend that kind of money when I can do what I want with what I have that cost me $150?

The amount of wood shown in your photos appears that it could easily be stacked in the bucket. By cantilevering logs along the bottom edge of the bucket like the teeth of a toothbar you might carry twice as much per bucket load without the securing strap. Presuming you handle each log once loading the pallet at origin and once again unloading the pallet at destination, net handling is a wash; you might have saved the $150. If you store the wood on the cut-down pallets and a strap is necessary to secure the wood for travel on your uneven ground, you would need a multitude of straps or spend more time lashing and unlashing the loads.

 

[Diggin It]

Presuming you handle each log once loading the pallet at origin and once again unloading the pallet at destination,

I don't. I cut, split and stack, then move for storage and drying. That way I don't have to handle each piece again and I can store it off the ground by a couple of inches to help avoid ground moisture and bugs.

If you store the wood on the cut-down pallets and a strap is necessary to secure the wood for travel on your uneven ground, you would need a multitude of straps or spend more time lashing and unlashing the loads.

I do. I get them for about $2.50 a piece or so if I watch the sales and coupons. I'm also trying a few pallets with rope and some with steel wire to see how each combination works over time. I think I have about 20-25 pallets stored now. All will remain strapped in one way or another until I move them to the house one or two at a time as needed next Fall.

But this thread is about whether or not I might be putting some harmful stresses on the loader bucket, arms or hydraulics that I might not have considered.

 

[Diggin It]

You are correct on the need for a hydraulic toplink with forks.
If you have rear remotes,

I don't. I only have one connection at the rear for the BH that some have told me is considered 'power beyond'.

 

[wassup8687]

Looks like a good idea and you'll save lots of money.

Nothing wrong with it if it works for you. It looks plenty safe too.