how tight should 3pt attachments be?

[beenthere]

I use the quick hitch (iMatch for me) to hook up and unhook quickly, with no fuss. I also leave some 'slop' in the movement. For the QA iMatch, essentially never change the adjustment.
With the rotary cutter, I want very little slop as it then allows me to have better control of where the cutter is. I don't want it to "move away" from an area I'm trying to cut (or a tree I'm trying to get close to) on its own.

 

[kthompson]

If you have the option to replace the chains with the telescoping stabilizers you will be glad you did. Pull two pins and both are are free. It allows for tight or movement. Also easy to set an implement to one side if you need to. Cultivators need NO movement nor roots.

 

[Dead Horse]

If you have the option to replace the chains with the telescoping stabilizers you will be glad you did. Pull two pins and both are are free. It allows for tight or movement. Also easy to set an implement to one side if you need to. Cultivators need NO movement nor roots.

Agreed.

 

[johann]

Thank-you all for the imput. I do have a BX2200, I just figured out how to put the signature in,..... I guess I missed the part that the implements hook up to!
I will definatley try the pins that the turn buckles attach to, while I look into the stabilizers and the Pat's quick connect. I wonder though with the Pat's if you still have to adjust the tention with a turnbuckle, what am I gaining? I will look them up after I log out of here so I know more about them......I am only guessing by the pictures as to what they will do at this point.
Thanks again for the imput.

 

[gwdixon]

I wonder though with the Pat's if you still have to adjust the tention with a turnbuckle, what am I gaining?

No adjustment necessary with the Pat's. It works by coming up from under the lift pin and then a securing latch locks in the pin.

If all of the pins on all your equipment are the same width no further adjustment is needed. With the BX a rod is necessary to keep the lift arms spread while hooking up. They tend to collapse together as you probably already know.

If you decide on the Pat's let me know by PM and I'll send pictures of various spreading rods that I've tried on my BX that work well.

 

[Reg]

I have been wondering if I need to have 3pt attachments pins socked in tight to the draw bars, or should there be some gap so it can move slightly right to left. I have been using them tight, and I assumed that the "eyeballs" compensated for angles when raising and lowering, mabe I am wrong ....

also,....any one got any tips for switching implements faster? I dred switching them out and having to use an open end wrench to tighten nuts .

I think it is GENERALLY accepted that 3 or 4 inches of side to side play is about right for Cat 1 ground engaging implements, about 5 for Cat 2.
You do KNOW that plows shift left as soon as you put them down, right ? (-:

 

[gwdixon]

You do KNOW that plows shift left as soon as you put them down, right ? (-:

Hmmm....that depends if the disc is offset or tandem.

 

[beenthere]

I.............
You do KNOW that plows shift left as soon as you put them down, right ? (-:

What kind of "plow" are you referring to?

If a moldboard plow for turning ground over, then I'd say no hold on the 3pt arms sway. The plow needs to be adjusted right to follow behind, and not be forced into position.

 

[Reg]

OK; so I left out the "mold board" and "tend to" clauses.
Sue me (-:

 

[YotaBota]

For my liking, I prefer tight when using the rear blade, and tiller.