how tight should 3pt attachments be?

[johann]

I have been wondering if I need to have 3pt attachments pins socked in tight to the draw bars, or should there be some gap so it can move slightly right to left. I have been using them tight, and I assumed that the "eyeballs" compensated for angles when raising and lowering, mabe I am wrong ....

also,....any one got any tips for switching implements faster? I dred switching them out and having to use an open end wrench to tighten nuts .

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

These are called quick hitches. One of the first things I bought when I found out about them. I also hated switching implements, still don't love it but it's much easier now. Pat's is a plated steel and capable of more rugged use and the other set, cast metal, I ordered off ebay for under $100. They install over the arm/pivot ball and extend back a few inches so upper arm may have to be replaced for approx $15 at Tractor Supply.

 

[dougtrr2]

I am confused. None of my three point attachments require wrenches on the pins. The pins slide through the ball socket and are retained with a keeper, no tools required. Pictures might help.

Take Care
Doug in SW IA

 

[Bedlam]

Underneath those 'hooks' on the ends are just like what you have. The swivel ball, and the implement pin slides in and through and then the lynch pin to hold.
Were you meaning should the implements themselves be allowed to swing from side to side and how much?(this would be the adjuster chains or the rods ) on the side of the arm back to the axle.
I believe your right to have then tight or snug.thats how I use mine, But I have used them when they loosen up and move around not much of a problem but wouldn't do it on a regular basis.

 

[gwdixon]

Ground engaging implement should have a little "slop" to swing, maybe an inch or two, in case something is struck. If the implement has no give then some component will eventually give. Something on the implement or something on the tractor. Just don't allow so much that the tires can be contacted.

You don't mention the tractor model but from the LA211 loader it must be a BX of some sort. Their lower arm adjustment turnbuckles are on the inside instead of the lower arms rather than the outside like the majority of tractors. If you leave just enough "slop" they can be spread just far enough to go over the lift pins.

For a BX having a quick hitch is almost a must otherwise one is continually having to fool with the turnbuckles to allow the arms to swing out far enough to be able to slide them on the lift pins. Another method is to take out one of the pins at the end of one turnbuckle to let the lift arm swing loose to go over the lift pins and then hook it back up again.

Pat's gets a strong vote from me for any Category 1 tractor. They can fail if one turns too sharply with a disk or plow. They don't break but do occasionally pop loose. Lifting the implement on turns eliminates that problem.

There are also sliding arms that replace the turnbuckle that other on TBN swear by. Maybe a member with one of those with them can chime in. I think they are called "telescopic stabilizers".

 

[BXpanded]

The correct amount of "slop" or sway is dependent on the implement. For instance the check chains should be fairly loose when using a turning plow, disc, aerator... They should be able to swing several inches to reduce side loads. A boxblade could be tighter. I can't immediately think of anything that would need the chains to be completely tight.

 

[gwdixon]

I can't immediately think of anything that would need the chains to be completely tight.

How about a chipper, post hole digger, counterweight, or a middle buster used for ditching next to a building or fence line. There are times when no sway is wanted - not often, but occasionally.

 

[Baby Grand]

I like a lot of slop in my brush hog. About 6" full left to full right at the tail of the cutter allows me to gently "kiss" a fixed object without transmitting those loads to the 3ph. Also gives me a few milliseconds of added reaction time - not that I'd ever need it 8^D.

-Jim

 

[radioman]

I would say its more of a personal preferance. I hate slop with a rototiller, backblade in snow. However I noticed it works better when catching on things to have slop with backblade in dirt. I have a firewood carrier I just built that I want NO slop at all. It must be me, but I prefer no slop. Ill take the extra time to turn the darn wrench to remove the slop or loosen to take off.

 

[20 20]

I also agree with the, some slop opinions.

 

[beenthere]

I use the quick hitch (iMatch for me) to hook up and unhook quickly, with no fuss. I also leave some 'slop' in the movement. For the QA iMatch, essentially never change the adjustment.
With the rotary cutter, I want very little slop as it then allows me to have better control of where the cutter is. I don't want it to "move away" from an area I'm trying to cut (or a tree I'm trying to get close to) on its own.

 

[kthompson]

If you have the option to replace the chains with the telescoping stabilizers you will be glad you did. Pull two pins and both are are free. It allows for tight or movement. Also easy to set an implement to one side if you need to. Cultivators need NO movement nor roots.

 

[Dead Horse]

If you have the option to replace the chains with the telescoping stabilizers you will be glad you did. Pull two pins and both are are free. It allows for tight or movement. Also easy to set an implement to one side if you need to. Cultivators need NO movement nor roots.

Agreed.

 

[johann]

Thank-you all for the imput. I do have a BX2200, I just figured out how to put the signature in,..... I guess I missed the part that the implements hook up to!
I will definatley try the pins that the turn buckles attach to, while I look into the stabilizers and the Pat's quick connect. I wonder though with the Pat's if you still have to adjust the tention with a turnbuckle, what am I gaining? I will look them up after I log out of here so I know more about them......I am only guessing by the pictures as to what they will do at this point.
Thanks again for the imput.

 

[gwdixon]

I wonder though with the Pat's if you still have to adjust the tention with a turnbuckle, what am I gaining?

No adjustment necessary with the Pat's. It works by coming up from under the lift pin and then a securing latch locks in the pin.

If all of the pins on all your equipment are the same width no further adjustment is needed. With the BX a rod is necessary to keep the lift arms spread while hooking up. They tend to collapse together as you probably already know.

If you decide on the Pat's let me know by PM and I'll send pictures of various spreading rods that I've tried on my BX that work well.

 

[Reg]

I have been wondering if I need to have 3pt attachments pins socked in tight to the draw bars, or should there be some gap so it can move slightly right to left. I have been using them tight, and I assumed that the "eyeballs" compensated for angles when raising and lowering, mabe I am wrong ....

also,....any one got any tips for switching implements faster? I dred switching them out and having to use an open end wrench to tighten nuts .

I think it is GENERALLY accepted that 3 or 4 inches of side to side play is about right for Cat 1 ground engaging implements, about 5 for Cat 2.
You do KNOW that plows shift left as soon as you put them down, right ? (-:

 

[gwdixon]

You do KNOW that plows shift left as soon as you put them down, right ? (-:

Hmmm....that depends if the disc is offset or tandem.

 

[beenthere]

I.............
You do KNOW that plows shift left as soon as you put them down, right ? (-:

What kind of "plow" are you referring to?

If a moldboard plow for turning ground over, then I'd say no hold on the 3pt arms sway. The plow needs to be adjusted right to follow behind, and not be forced into position.

 

[Reg]

OK; so I left out the "mold board" and "tend to" clauses.
Sue me (-:

 

[YotaBota]

For my liking, I prefer tight when using the rear blade, and tiller.