How tight should a check chain be?

[tallyho8]

My tractor did not have a check chain on it when I bought it. I made one up and put it on but I don't think I have it tight enough. Is there a certain amount of play that you should have in your lower links from being pushed fully to the right and then pushed fully to the left?

 

[AchingBack]

Mainly, tallyho8, you don't want the chains rubbing on your tires.

 

[TYMinColton]

My tractor did not have a check chain on it when I bought it. I made one up and put it on but I don't think I have it tight enough. Is there a certain amount of play that you should have in your lower links from being pushed fully to the right and then pushed fully to the left?

Great question Tallyho. I was wondering the same thing. I typically tighten both chains so as to keep the 3pt and attachment "locked" and centered behind the tractor. I have an older ford that came without chains and never liked the feeling of a 500 lb brush hog swinging violently from side-to-side. This is how I've always done it, maybe someone else has a different opinion.

 

[radman1]

When I use check chains, I usually leave them just barely slack in the down postion with the implement onteh tractor. I only allow a little lateral movement. On some tractors I have noticed the chains being more slack in the raised rather than down position.

 

[3RRL]

Hi tallyho8,
When you say check chains, I presume you mean the stabilizer chains on the drag links or lower links, right? To keep the implement from swaying sideways too much? (Some guys refer to check chains being ones that are attached to the back of the tractor and to the front of an implement mostly like a brush hog which helps keep the front of the brush hog to remain in the same relative position 'up and down' to the tractor when mowing up and down dips and rises.)

If you mean the stabilizer chains, there needs to be some play to let them move a little and to compensate for when it's lifted into the air or dragged on the ground. I have seen on some models, if they are set too tight when dragging, they bust off when raising the implement. I don't have stabilizer chains but rather stabilizer bars. They have holes in them for adjustment and at each end, there is a slot about 1" long so they can slide in and out about 2" or so total (each one). So I would say have a little slack for the implement to move naturally but not too much so it sways into your rear tires. Check them in the lowered "working position" and also when you raise it to be sure they will not snap off when transporting the implement to the work site.

I only have one implement set real tight and that's my 3pt backhoe. I cinch that down. I don't know about plows or tillers though ... maybe they should be fairly tight too ... I dunno, but they should also be set so you can pick them up for transporting too? But the boxblade, landscape rake, rotary cutter and even post hole digger I leave some play for them to sway left to right. I mentioned a couple of inches each because that's what my stabilizer "bars" allow on my tractor, so I figure that should be alright. Even with only that much play they keep the implement well clear of my tires but allow a lot of tilting with my hydraulic side links for road work without busting off.
Here's a video to show how much I can tilt without breaking the stabilizers, yet keep the implement squarely and safely behind me. Also a couple pictures of the stabilizer bars which are on my wife's Jinma and also my Kama. Her's are square tubing and mine are round (they are the red ones).
Man, I sure hope that's what your were asking about...

 

[tallyho8]

Thanks for your answers. My last tractor had stabilizer bars and my new (to me) Ford has space for bars and/or check chains. I opted for the check chains and have left a little extra play in them for when I raise my brush cutter or tilt my box blade. It sure would be nice to have hydraulic adjustments like 3RRL has.

 

[Soundguy]

Great question Tallyho. I was wondering the same thing. I typically tighten both chains so as to keep the 3pt and attachment "locked" and centered behind the tractor. I have an older ford that came without chains and never liked the feeling of a 500 lb brush hog swinging violently from side-to-side. This is how I've always done it, maybe someone else has a different opinion.

Those older fords DID have provisions for installing stabilizers on them.. apparently you didn't opt to use them...

soundguy

 

[TYMinColton]

Those older fords DID have provisions for installing stabilizers on them.. apparently you didn't opt to use them...

soundguy

Kinda figured as much. Tractor came with the house - guess the previous owner didn't have the stabilizers.
Pete

 

[mwb]

Don't know what model you have but my 'old' ford (1974 model 2000) has chains that limit the drag link travel so the arms will not hit the tires (either with or without an implement attached. My tractor also has a single stabilizer bar that pins on the right side. The stabilizer is attached below the axle inline with the pivot for the drag link (same axis) and directly pins on to the implement 3pt with the drag link. There is no play side to side (i.e. no slots other than wear).

I use the stablizer for almost every attachment (it does not fit on something I have but i can't remember what...)

Cheers,
Mike

 

[TYMinColton]

You mean like these two chains on the back of my '62 Ford 881? They definitely do keep implements and the lower arms from hitting the rear tires, but they don't really check a load from swinging in about a 3-4 ft arc. . . . As mentioned above I don't have the stabilizer bar that was meant to keep things lined up with the rear of the tractor.