how to bleed fuel lines

[TrueCountry]

I have a 3525, I just changed the fuel filter and the tractor will not crank. Someone said to bleed the fuel line because I got air in it when I changed it and that will make it not crank. Can someone here tell me how to bleed the fuel line. Any help would be great, I dont want to have to put it in the shop. I cant afford it. Thanks

 

[manganos]

You need to back off the injectors while cranking it over. When it is nothing but a constant stream of fuel (no air) tighten them back up. When they are all tight crank it again and it should start

 

[TrueCountry]

Thanks, thats what I thought...I just didnt want to mess anything up.

 

[721h354]

TrueCountry,

The spin, crack, & bleed method will work with a little time & patience. On your tractor, there is a more simple method. With the fuel flow established, unscrew the hand primer plunger and simply pump the primer until you feel it getting more firm (you may even hear fuel flowing back into the fuel tank through the return line). At this point push the primer back down one last time and screw it back in place. Should be ready to run. Hope this helps.
Scott @ Artec

 

[EddieWalker]

Be sure the fuel filter is full. On some diesels, it's pretty big and takes a very long time to fill up again. Then loosen the injector lines until you get a steady amout of fuel coming out of the lines without any bubbles.

Eddie

 

[Raspy]

True,

Bleed the air out of the fuel filter with the bleeder on top of the canister or at the injection pump. This is just a gravity operation. When fuel shows up re-tighten the bolt. Next crack the fuel injection nuts on the fuel lines. Open them about 1/3 turn. Push the throttle to full and crank the engine. The fuel will not run steady, it will pulse. Crank for a bit and look for fuel instead of air. Then re-tighten the injector line nuts, start it and reduce the throttle setting.

You said it would not "crank" This means it will not turn because of a dead battery or bad starter. I think you meant it would turn but not start.

Some guys pour fuel into the spin on filter before installing it, but that might not be the best way because of possible contamination. I've also seen guys pour in transmission fluid when they didn't have diesel available.

 

[genusCastor]

Bleed the air out of the fuel filter with the bleeder on top of the canister or at the injection pump. This is just a gravity operation. When fuel shows up re-tighten the bolt.

So, can air be bled from the system with this bleeder? I have a 3510, ran it out of fuel today, now it won't start (and the fuel filter is 1/2 empty).

The manual I have says to open the cock on the fuel pump, start the engine and let it run a while, then close the fuel pump cock. I didn't try that yet (it was almost dark when it ran out of fuel, I'm going to look at it tomorrow), but it sounds too easy...simply opening the fuel pump cock will enable the engine to start? :confused2:

- djb

 

[LAWALLSTRACTOR]

It works.

 

[genusCastor]

It works.

Yup, it sure does. :thumbsup:

Tractor will run now, but the fuel filter didn't fill up. Will that be a prollem?

- djb

 

[LAWALLSTRACTOR]

Yup, it sure does. :thumbsup:

Tractor will run now, but the fuel filter didn't fill up. Will that be a prollem?

- djb

Loosen the sight bowl nut and let the air out and the fuel fill it, then tighten the bowl nut back up.

 

[AGGIE00]

I agree with everything said here except loosening all the injector lines. It only takes one.

 

[manganos]

That is the way I was shown so I've always done it this way. Next time (hopefully there is no next time) I'll just try with one

Thanks for the help though!

I agree with everything said here except loosening all the injector lines. It only takes one.

 

[genusCastor]

I should mention that I tried cracking open an injector, but no fuel ever came out. I cranked it 3 or 4 times (15 sec at a time, with several minute breaks to let the starter rest a little).

The cock valve on the injector pump is awesome. Tractor started on the first try (cranked 10 sec or so), and I never even got any fuel on my hands.

Or that would be a for the grease monkeys.

:laughing:

- djb

 

[jpm1]

Ya know this is all new to me. I have a 2810, and have run it dry several times the first week i took delivery. The only thing i did was put fuel in the filter , tighten it up, get on and turn the key. A couple of seconds later it started and i was in business again. This is the easiest tractor i have ever started in this situation. Love my Mahindra! . . .John

 

[LAWALLSTRACTOR]

The recomended proceedure really is easier then that.

 

[bmm]

On my1860, changed both fuel filters..i have a small air bubble in the top filter...will this cause a problem...engine starts, a little rough at first but then seems to run smother ....Thanks for your help

 

[SHORT KID]

I always start my tractor and let it warm up before changing the fuel filter. If I have a loss of power when using it, I just shut it down as soon as I can get it back to the shop. I only have one small filter with the plastic site glass and two bleed screws and shut off valve. I shut the fuel off loosen the glass and drop the filter, catching any spillage. After cleaning the glass and filter area I install new filter but I DO NOT tighten the filter. When it is almost tight I turn the fuel on and watch that the glass fills. When full I tighten the glass and start engine at a high idle and run until the air if any is out. I never used the screws on the filter to bleed, or cracked the injector lines. If I was going to crack the injector lines, it would be the furtherest from the pump. After 3 diesel tractors and 4 diesel trucks I think I have it down now!!!!