How to dig a pond in stages

[JD5225]

I want to dig a pond on some flat ground I just bought. It is 15 acres and I need to build a road, dirt pad for a barn and build up some of the property because its flat. I want to end up with 1.5 to 2 acres of water. How do I build a pond in stages?

I was thinking of biting the bullet and renting a big trackhoe and work on it a little at a time over the years. I would ramp the dirt and in several spots.

 

[new jersey mike]

You may want to talk to an engineer/pond builder to check your water table. You don't want to do all that work the pond water maintains the level of the water table which at time is below the surface.

 

[bcp]

If you are going to BOTH dig AND move the dirt several hundred yards, something like this would be better than an excavator.

Product - Dirt Pan

Bruce

 

[rekees4300]

IMHO building a pond that big is beyond DIY. A telephone is more powerful than an trackhoe. Pick up the phone and call a professional. That's the only stage you'll need to do-it-right. :2cents:

 

[bcp]

This one was built in stages:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/97146-pond-dreaming-over.html

Bruce

 

[Reg]

I want to dig a pond on some flat ground I just bought. It is 15 acres and I need to build a road, dirt pad for a barn and build up some of the property because its flat. I want to end up with 1.5 to 2 acres of water. How do I build a pond in stages?

I was thinking of biting the bullet and renting a big trackhoe and work on it a little at a time over the years. I would ramp the dirt and in several spots.

I think the answer to "How ?" may be "Don't".
Unless you REALLY KNOW where the water table is, how the water flows beneath the surface.... and all that other stuff that geologists and hydrologists know how to figure out. You could be in deep do doo very quickly.

One day you may do just fine scooping stuff out, next day you migt find that bank has eroded away and there is 4 ft of dirty water at the bottom.

Just TOO unpredictable for a DIY'er

 

[creekbend]

Rest assured that I am not a professional in regards to constructing ponds. I did help my Father build 3 ponds in the 60's though. You stated that eventually you wanted a pond existing of 1.5-2.0 acres. You also previously stated that you wanted to do the work a little at a time in stages over a period of years. Once you start digging and then stop for an extended period of time, have you considered that rainwater or ground water will start filling the pit that you have already dug? My Father and I just kept digging our ponds until we had reached the area and depth that we wanted. BTW, how deep are you wanting to go? There are websites that will advise you on the slope in regards to reducing weed growth; etc. There is a TBN member named EddieWalker that would most definitely be able to assist you. He started a thread in regards to building a Lake. Wishing you the best in regards to your project.

 

[fishfactor]

A pond of that size is one of those things that you can contract out cheaper than you can rent the equipment and do it yourself. You would need a track hoe, dozer, and pan to be effective. Those rental fees add up really quick. Not to mention the technical aspects already mentioned.

 

[bcp]

Ponds--stages:

Bruce

 

[creekbend]

While you are thinking about it, here are a couple of photos of stages in ponds:

Bruce

I noticed one apparent discrepancy in regards to the pictures that you posted. None of the drivers of those "Stages" appear to be "Wells Fargo" drivers.

 

[JD5225]

I have dug 3 ponds already its not rocket science. I have a plan for a pond correct slopes with the ability to shoot grades etc. A 325 Cat with a 4.5 yard bucket for a week is $2300. I already own a 450g dozer. In 40 hours I should be able to move 16000 cu yards thats one acre of water 10 feet deep. I figured 1 acre at a time. I want a 2 acre pond so I figured I would shoot for one acre use that dirt to build the road and the pad. Then shut it down and come back for the rest of the pond later. I guess I could pump it down work behind a wall and then break it and let it join. I am in South LA, holding water.....uh not a problem haha I aint scared this easy compared to other things I have done by learning on the fly

 

[pjbci]

I move dirt and dig pond in south ms for a living. Sounds to me like you have a good plan. I would just pump water out before starting phase 2 of pond. It wont leave a visible shallow ridge between the 2 sections like it will if you leave a wall then break it out. Good luck.

 

[JD5225]

PJ,

I may need some advice of how best to dig. I want to have an exact plan when I start digging as to keep the hoe rolling without to much hesitation. I am going to get a better depth, slope, and shape idea I will post it here. I still have to clear the site. I will start posting pics.

 

[pjbci]

You are gonna need help if you rent the 325 cat. Its gonna be dumping 4.5 yds every 30 seconds or less. Your 450s blade capacity is just over 2yds. You should consider hiring another dzr to help. Also depending on where your located, some parts of south LA have such a high demand for fill dirt, you may get your pond dug in exchange for the dirt.

 

[20 20]

I want to dig a pond on some flat ground I just bought. It is 15 acres and I need to build a road, dirt pad for a barn and build up some of the property because its flat. I want to end up with 1.5 to 2 acres of water. How do I build a pond in stages?

I was thinking of biting the bullet and renting a big trackhoe and work on it a little at a time over the years. I would ramp the dirt and in several spots.

It can be done as you mention but why drag it out? If you have the big excavator why not get your hole dug, then worry about moving the spoils as time allows. I have done pretty much what you are suggesting. It took me time because of money. I did save myself a lot, but digging over time can be a headache. Constantly draining water and working in muck makes things harder then they need to be. No matter what your plan of attack is do you have a pump of some sort? Digging will go quite quick, moving the dirt out of your way will be the issue. I piled mine up, it was muck and just plain nasty stuff, let it set then moved it the following year. Your goal is not that big a deal as long as you're prepared to work in muck. When I finished my pond this last year I would drive down in it{12'deep) and move dirt then go back to the top and load the dirt into a trailer and small dump truck(about 4ton a trip). Problem up here{NY}is we've had very wet seasons since 06, so I spent more time draining then I actually did digging.
I have also dug other ponds without dragging it out......much easier. So my suggestion is get your hole dug make a "huge" pile of dirt, IF POSSIBLE. Then move the dirt where needed when time allows.

 

[20 20]

I was going to ask what your soil was like and some other questions but from your posts it looks like you have a good idea of the land, so I did not bother.

 

[JD5225]

thank you for the great information. i didnt even realize the dozer has a 2yd blade. the 325 must be a monster.

20 20,

Yes this is a piece of play land for me and my dad so how ever long it takes is ok. I want to create a nice fishing hole and I dont think one acre will cut it. I only want to sit on the trackhoe 40hrs straight one week at a time I have a smaller trackhoe 30k that is old and not up to the task of digging that hard. I will just ramp it up and use the smaller hoe to more the dirt whenever it dries up and the following year put in another 40 hrs on the 325 and I should have a 2 acre pond.

I think I may just bench the sides and push down the slope with the dozer to make it easy. Is there any illustrations of this on the net?

 

[pjbci]

I understand that you just wanna ramp the dirt but I dont think you realize that the dirt has to be moved to the ramp or pile as fast as you dig it out. Otherwise it will be sitting in the way of the hoe for the next pass. The 325 is only going to be able to move the dirt 40-50ft at a time and surely you want your pond wider than that.

Have you considered hiring it done. 40 hrs should cost about 5000. Your rental machine is probaly going to cost close to that same figure. Heres how I figure that. 2300 rent, 600 delivery, 200 washing fee when you return it, sales tax on all of the above, plus 12-1400 diesel for the machine. Also.consider the logistics of getting 60 gallons of fuel into it every day if you dont already have a 12 volt transfer tank. It all adds up quick. Usually on a project that big it cost just as much to rent or contract it done.

Now, dont get me wrong, I think it'll be a very rewarding project to do yourself and I think you should go for it. Just be prepared for a lot more expense than the base rental fee. Good luck!

 

[tift104]

PJ,

I may need some advice of how best to dig. I want to have an exact plan when I start digging as to keep the hoe rolling without to much hesitation. I am going to get a better depth, slope, and shape idea I will post it here. I still have to clear the site. I will start posting pics.

JD the first thing I'd do is dig some test holes just to see how deep you've got to go before you reach a soil type that is capable of holding water. I read something a while back that I think is good advice. Digging dirt is like taking a vacation. Once you spend that money on a vacation its gone. It cost money every time you move dirt. Try not to take your dirt on a vacation.

 

[JD5225]

All the dirt I am digging will hold water. I am in the coastal clay. The black dirt is 3 feet deep and the white/yellow clay is under that. About 15 feet down the natural water table begins to push its way up.