How to fix my leaking throttle valve on lucas cav injector pump on my john deer 410B

[thepumpguysc]

1stNuff. depending on the mdl of inj. pump you have, the fuel out of the pig-tail is supposed to drain out..
SOME pumps are fuel oil lubricated.. while others are engine oil lubricated.. IF yours is the engine oil type, when was the last time you changed the oil, checked the level or added oil??
If its the fuel oil lubed system.. don't worry about it.. its doing exactly what its supposed to do.. unless of course its "streaming" out.. dripping in ok..

 

[jrsavoie]

I am doing this with Ford parts on my old 1975 Backhoe.

Is there a better gasket and o'rings than OEM? I have to wonder if these Ford o'rings are safe for the new diesel

Ford pt # gasket 384771R1 and Orings - Ford pt # 49886

Where is the bleeder on the pump itself?

 

[thepumpguysc]

Ford isn't the OEM on those parts. CAV is..
You can buy the whole mini kit to do the top cover for 6.00 w/ free shipping..
don't forget the fiber washers that go under the top nuts.. they WILL leak..
U paid 13.00 for the gasket alone.!! you coulda got ALL of it for 6.00 on ebay..

 

[jrsavoie]

Ford isn't the OEM on those parts. CAV is..
You can buy the whole mini kit to do the top cover for 6.00 w/ free shipping..
don't forget the fiber washers that go under the top nuts.. they WILL leak..
U paid 13.00 for the gasket alone.!! you coulda got ALL of it for 6.00 on ebay..

Actually it was $11.77 for everything delivered from the local dealer.

Now I have a new issue -

My Fuel inlet is leaking on my 1975 Ford backhoe. Do you have a part number for that? I haven't found anything in searches.

Is that part rebuildable? Wondering if the stuff to rebuild it comes in the kits as I haven't seen that part for sale yet.

It has the numbers 7167 cast on the top inside and 272 JD2 on the bottom inside

I also need a new gasket which I have seen in all the kits.

My pump looks like this one with the fuel line going where the white plug is.

FORD 46, 461 TRACTOR W/21 ENGINE DIESEL FUEL INJECTION PUMP - NEW LUCAS CAV | eBay

 

[thepumpguysc]

The entire gasket kit is 7135-110 it has 99-100% of the gaskets you'll need..
"patching" a CAV pump is NOT recommended.. they leak somewhere else, as your finding out..
Its BEST to go all the way thru one, the first time..
The bleeder screw is by the name plate on the side.. its a double screw.. 5/16 bleeder in a 7/16 body..
Just loosen the 5/16 screw, SPIN/CRANK THE ENGINE until clear fuel comes out, NO AIR, & tighten..

 

[jrsavoie]

The entire gasket kit is 7135-110 it has 99-100% of the gaskets you'll need..
"patching" a CAV pump is NOT recommended.. they leak somewhere else, as your finding out..
Its BEST to go all the way thru one, the first time..
The bleeder screw is by the name plate on the side.. its a double screw.. 5/16 bleeder in a 7/16 body..
Just loosen the 5/16 screw, SPIN/CRANK THE ENGINE until clear fuel comes out, NO AIR, & tighten..

Has anybody put a lift pump in front of these before?

Would there be any advantages?I was thinking about using a lift pump off a GMT400 6.5 diesel

Are the new gasket kits ULSD friendly?

I still have yet to find the fuel intake plate. On mine the part the incoming fuel line screws into, is spinning in the plate. The gasket was not leaking.

The gasket will have to be replaced now that I have it apart.

I haven't figured out why the fuel inlet plate is made in 2 pieces like it is. It seems it could have been one piece I'm beginning to wish I had some of the aircraft fuel tank repair epoxy. That would fix that leak.

 

[thepumpguysc]

You don't know how it works.. sorry to say..
The "plate on the side" IS NOT the inlet.. its the return.. The inlet is to the right ..
The plate back in the 70's were made of 2 piece aluminum w/ epoxy holding it together.. after 40 years its broken down..
The NEW plates are 1 piece metal.. I need the pump P# inorder to give u the correct P#.. there are diff. ones..

 

[jrsavoie]

You don't know how it works.. sorry to say..
The "plate on the side" IS NOT the inlet.. its the return.. The inlet is to the right ..
The plate back in the 70's were made of 2 piece aluminum w/ epoxy holding it together.. after 40 years its broken down..
The NEW plates are 1 piece metal.. I need the pump P# inorder to give u the correct P#.. there are diff. ones..

Ok Thanks. I wish I had more epoxy. I'd just fix the piece I have. I used a 3M product -AC236 - to seal the leaky axle tube on the 1996 Toro 223D. Worked great.

I am looking into keeping something on hand. When I was looking for that product, I had trouble finding stuff that was resistant to the new diesel, transmission fluid, dissimilar metals - steel and aluminum and vibration

3M AC-730 B-2 is another product I looked into

3M Aerospace Sealant Kit | AC-73 B-2 | RS Hughes Industrial Supply

 

[thepumpguysc]

WE use a special 2prt epoxy in the fuel inj. industry.. its made by Armstrong & costs 65.00 a set. BUT u cant buy just 1 because they have a min. order.. Ya gotta get 2.. lol
I've "fixed" MANY side covers using it. but it sounds like you NEEDED a cover, seeing your housing pressure regulator check ball was missing..

 

[jrsavoie]

WE use a special 2prt epoxy in the fuel inj. industry.. its made by Armstrong & costs 65.00 a set. BUT u cant buy just 1 because they have a min. order.. Ya gotta get 2.. lol
I've "fixed" MANY side covers using it. but it sounds like you NEEDED a cover, seeing your housing pressure regulator check ball was missing..

Neither Rick nor I knew if every cover had a check. I have to wonder how long the ball and I assume spring has been missing and where they went.

I was hoping that some never had a check to begin with and mine was one of those. LOL

I bought the stuff I got from aircraftspruce.com I believe I could have got the 3 M products at a lot of places.

The numbers I got off the injection pump - to the best as I could - DPA 3233F640 The 2nd 3 looked like a 3, but was different from the other 3's. The 4 was smaller than everything else & looked like it could have been a plus sign

Serial 49337 OS