How to generator power pass through to inside the house.

[Gunny]

I run a 2200w Honda during the night. The outside wall connection is a standard generator input plug. Inside on the other side of the wall is two duplex outlets. I run extension cords to the fridge, a couple lights, electronics, etc. Not very elegant but it works and the little generator will go 10 hours on a gallon.

I've got about the same setup as this, haven't needed it but it's there and ready to go if needed.
The double duplex outlets are by the back door where I can easily plug extension cords to the freezers and refrigerator with the larger generator. I also have a single outlet set up like that on the side of the house so that I can power the pellet stove with the little inverter generator.

No dangers of backfeeding the house circuits and no double male patch cords.

 

[MAD777]

I recently moved into a new house with the pictured breaker box and outside generator connection.

I'm interested in running only the fridge, gas stove, propane heat control and well pump, plus a couple of LED light bulbs.

I understand the switching at the breaker box, and will disconnect at the meter (just as a fail-safe). But I haven't purchase a generator yet and I'm looking for advice as to what type and capacity I need.

 

[Diggin It]

But I haven't purchase a generator yet and I'm looking for advice as to what type and capacity I need.

Something less than 10K should suit your needs. Gas, diesel, LP or NG is an ongoing debate. All about how easy it is for YOU to get and store fuel. Portable and fixed mount install is another dragon's lair.

 

[TractorGuy]

Every time this subject comes up you will get a lot of naysayers about backfeeding a generator. I agree you SHOULDN'T backfeed without an interlock device. I can't believe it could be illegal in every state since the panel manufactures often offer a compatible interlock device for their panels. I bought one at Home Depot for my Square D panel.

On the other hand if you are asking on a forum you probably shouldn't be messing with it. Hire an electrician to hook you up. They will know the local codes and laws.

 

[CobyRupert]

I recently moved into a new house with the pictured breaker box and outside generator connection.

I'm interested in running only the fridge, gas stove, propane heat control and well pump, plus a couple of LED light bulbs.

I understand the switching at the breaker box, and will disconnect at the meter (just as a fail-safe). But I haven't purchase a generator yet and I'm looking for advice as to what type and capacity I need. View attachment 629096View attachment 629097

It looks like the mechanical interlocks on those breakers force you to turn off the panel's Main 200A breaker (utility power supply) before you can turn on the genny's 30A backfeed breaker.
This is a MUST! (so genny doesn't feed back into utility line).

The receptacle and the 30A breaker (and most likely the cable in between the two) limit the genny supply power to 30 amps at 240V, or (240V x 30A =) 7200 Watts, no matter if Genny is bigger. You must manage your loads being run so loads don't exceed 7200W.

Typically, people want a breaker to trip before the genny stalls, although most genny's will have their own breaker that trips before it stalls.

You may want a generator bigger than 7200Watts to start motor loads that have a high inrush, but you'll be limited to around 7200 Watts running load by your panel's 30A genny breaker even if you go bigger than a 7200W generator.
If you go smaller than 7200W, the breaker at the genny might be <30amps, so that would trip first.

 

[LouNY]

It looks like the mechanical interlocks on those breakers force you to turn off the panel's Main 200A breaker (utility power supply) before you can turn on the genny's 30A backfeed breaker.
This is a MUST! (so genny doesn't feed back into utility line).

The receptacle and the 30A breaker (and most likely the cable in between the two) limit the genny supply power to 30 amps at 240V, or (240V x 30A =) 7200 Watts, no matter if Genny is bigger. You must manage your loads being run so loads don't exceed 7200W.

Typically, people want a breaker to trip before the genny stalls, although most genny's will have their own breaker that trips before it stalls.

You may want a generator bigger than 7200Watts to start motor loads that have a high inrush, but you'll be limited to around 7200 Watts running load by your panel's 30A genny breaker even if you go bigger than a 7200W generator.
If you go smaller than 7200W, the breaker at the genny might be <30amps, so that would trip first.

Best answer so far,
Yes, that device in the breaker box requires the main breaker to be turned off prior to turning the generator breaker on, perfectly legal generator interface in many places.
The power inlet is a standard 30 amp twist lock, it is ready to have a conventional 4 wire 120/240 extension cord plugged into your generator and to that inlet,
no fuss no muss, turn any breakers off that will overload your system.

 

[fried1765]

OK....so here goes...... what should be a simple question/answer.

Upon loss of electric power....you go to your main panel.
Trip all breakers....INCLUDING THE MAIN BREAKER.
Flip refrig, water pump, furnace, TV, and select a light circuit or two back on.
Plug the 6500W Honda into the dryer receptacle, start the Honda, then flip the dryer breaker back on.
Is this dangerous in any way?

A Canadian electrician told me that this IS DANGEROUS, because the main breaker does not disconnect the neutral.
I understand that the neutral is not disconnected, but why would that need to be done?

 

[bcp]

Sometimes the "danger" in something that may be "safe" is in how many things could go wrong, and how badly, if everything is not done precisely right. Especially if more than one person might be involved.

Bruce

 

[Travelover]

I recently moved into a new house with the pictured breaker box and outside generator connection.

I'm interested in running only the fridge, gas stove, propane heat control and well pump, plus a couple of LED light bulbs.

I understand the switching at the breaker box, and will disconnect at the meter (just as a fail-safe). But I haven't purchase a generator yet and I'm looking for advice as to what type and capacity I need. View attachment 629096View attachment 629097

I have this exact set up (looks like a Siemen's box). I have a 6000 watt 220 volt generator that I've converted to natural gas that I plug in occasionally to run the well or anything else on 220 volts. Then, when less power is needed (most of the time) I have a Honda 2000 120 volt inverter generator that I plug into the same inlet using a special plug that powers both sides of the panel. I can selectively turn off breakers to keep from overwhelming the little generator. I flip off the 220 volt breakers when the Honda is running, but the 220 volt devices see zero volts between the two legs, anyway.

 

[lennyzx11]

OK....so here goes...... what should be a simple question/answer.

Upon loss of electric power....you go to your main panel.
Trip all breakers....INCLUDING THE MAIN BREAKER.
Flip refrig, water pump, furnace, TV, and select a light circuit or two back on.
Plug the 6500W Honda into the dryer receptacle, start the Honda, then flip the dryer breaker back on.
Is this dangerous in any way?

A Canadian electrician told me that this IS DANGEROUS, because the main breaker does not disconnect the neutral.
I understand that the neutral is not disconnected, but why would that need to be done?

YES

The neutral is a direct connection out to the line with no protection. No breakers, switches, or disconnects.
If anything failed and or was shorted from the 1 (or 2 for 220) hot lines that your generator is providing, the generator breaker may not trip since it doesn't see a overcurrent due to no load on the neutral.

Mr Lineman verifys the line is dead by checking the voltage lines to ground and to neutral. Yes. the hots ARE dead. you shut off the breakers. So no reading is present. The neutral is just sitting there hot with no path for it to go.

Mr Lineman grabs a handful of wires. One of which is Neutral and presumed safe and dead. This completes a path through him from the generator Hot>through the neutral> into his body> out to the nearest grounding point. The generator doesn't trip until the current flow gets higher than the circuit breaker rating. 30 Amp?

.1 to .2 amps is lethal.

Electrical Safety: The Fatal Current